Is the cam timing right? What did you set the valve lash at?
Crower 2 Idle Problem
So heres the deal. I just installed a crower 2, valves, valve springs, retainers, ported/polished head, and edelbrock IM. I got the idle straight, it idles at around 1500 once warmed up....but after driving around, when i come to a complete stop, the idle drops to about 500, and wants to cut off, so i gotta keep my foot on the gas....and its a real pain in the ass. ive tried messing with the idle screw, but it still wants to drop low after driving around. anybody got ideas of what it is and/or how to fix this? thanks in advance!
Nick
Nick
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what kind of tuning are you using? If none, there's your problem. When I was using this cam, I had almost 30% of fuel take'n out in idle range just to get it not to stallSo heres the deal. I just installed a crower 2, valves, valve springs, retainers, ported/polished head, and edelbrock IM. I got the idle straight, it idles at around 1500 once warmed up....but after driving around, when i come to a complete stop, the idle drops to about 500, and wants to cut off, so i gotta keep my foot on the gas....and its a real pain in the ass. ive tried messing with the idle screw, but it still wants to drop low after driving around. anybody got ideas of what it is and/or how to fix this? thanks in advance!
Nick
Tuning is your friend.
Can i temporarily use the SAFC/VTEC controller from Fields alongside a stock P08 ecu for this?what kind of tuning are you using? If none, there's your problem. When I was using this cam, I had almost 30% of fuel take'n out in idle range just to get it not to stall
It might give you a marginal improvement however without adjusting the timing to compensate for the addition or subtraction of fuel, you won't get the optimal results.Can i temporarily use the SAFC/VTEC controller from Fields alongside a stock P08 ecu for this?
tuning is killing me right now. im on a FPR and FPR Gauge, cause my VAFC i bought dosent function properly. Im looking into hondata, but i cant run it in VA (OBD2...emmissions and all)
you need to tune plain and simple... you wont see any gains without it and your car wont be running how it SHOULD
installing a cam and tuning go hand in hand
installing a cam and tuning go hand in hand
Worry about emissions when you have to. For now though, you have to do it for your set-up to run right. If you won't tune it properly then you shouldn't have even done it.tuning is killing me right now. im on a FPR and FPR Gauge, cause my VAFC i bought dosent function properly. Im looking into hondata, but i cant run it in VA (OBD2...emmissions and all)
i understand that, and i had the stuff to tune it, but the VAFC dosent work properly. im thinkin about goin with hondata. what good tuning options are out there that allow me to keep OBD2?
Tune FTW. Spend the money it will be well worth it.
money isnt an issue. i want to know what would run right and still be OBD2 functional.
obd2 will not accept a tune at all period.my buddy a had a b16 turbo with obd2 ecu with an afc two weeks later boom 2 cracked pistons(not good!!) convert to obd1 get it chipped with a programable chip and get a laptop with a usb cable and tune it with crome or uberdata
or u could go apexi power fc.. isnt that obd2 ??
If you're worried about emissions here's what I would do. Tune the current cam using OBD1 w/ Uberdata, Crome, etc and then when testing comes around, swap back to the stock cam and obd2 and you should be golden.
X10000000Tune FTW. Spend the money it will be well worth it.
OK. Well i checked my CEL codes, and it came up Fuel Trim Malfunction, Fuel System running rich, and O2 sensor malfunction. Clear codes, turn car on, idles and wont run right again. it ran fine with the CEL on :-(
edit: and switching to a stock cam everytime emmissions comes around wont cut it either. will a functioning AFC tune the car on OBD2?
edit: and switching to a stock cam everytime emmissions comes around wont cut it either. will a functioning AFC tune the car on OBD2?
Tighten the trottle cable or turn the idle screw all the way out to make it idle until you do it right and get it tuned. My guess is the car will stay idling around 1000 rpm
ive tried, but it dosent want to work for me. and VA emmissions are killin me with the OBD2 scan shit.
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