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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys.. I've got the car running since the FPR, ignition coil, and bad gas..
It sounds great when it's running I'm just having issues getting the car to idle..

I've got IACV duty cycle adjustment options from -100% to +100%.. I'm trying to leave it at 0% and just dial in idle with the idle set screw. I have idle ignition adjustments turned on. They are at stock p28 values. I'm using stock fuel injectors, stock fpr.

I'm running a 272-2 grind cam- I think this is probably the biggest part of the problem. Someone said they had to degree their cam +3 degrees to get it to idle nicely..

The car either idles at 1500rpms or at ~600 rpms on the verge of stalling..
Sometimes I can get the idle perfect at just a hair under 1000rpms but when the cooling fan kicks on it will either stall out to ~600 rpms or it will ramp up to 1500-2000rpms and it won't change from either of those rpm ranges when the fan kicks off..

It has really poor throttle response when it's down around ~600 rpms.
Sometimes, if I hit the throttle and let off it real quick, the idle with return to the ~1000 rpms I'm shooting for.. Other times it drops to ~600 and won't come back... Other times it will stick at ~1500 or ~2000.

No matter what RPM it is.. ~600, ~1000, ~1500 or ~2000 it will stay there steady.. there is no hunting idle.
 

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ok first off i would degree the cam and go from there. im sure you want to do this any way to make the most power

i had FIC2150,e85,485lp pump and that cam and my idle was around 1200. i could not idle the car any lower or it would turn off but this was bc of the injectors and the lowest afr i could obtaine was around 12.

when i degreded my cam i was at +3 but i could have went .5-1deg either way and still been ok. the quality of the grind was not that great and gave me the .5deg varation both ways
 

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also i did not have any low end problems driving the car drove great out of boost.but i did need a tune the base map sucked but i did start my car on the 2150s and e85 from the beggining

mind you 9.0cr pistons and a s300 turbo i was at 500whp

on hondata i iacv worked great and i had it at 20% BUT I ALSO HAS IT REMOTE MOUNTED WITH 3/4IN VAC LINE TO IT.also car has ac and with ac on did not have idle issues either.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks for the info. I talked to my tuner.. he was like.. eeeh.. you probably don't need to degree it.. Bob @ RC Autoworks basically said the same thing.. even though I had brought it up to both of them before I had the motor in the car..
 

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stock sleeves 503whp 328tq and had more to go but never got the chance cam failed few weeks later and tore up the motor pretty bad.

new build s262 billet wheel n 75 shot looking for 700whp

and degreeing the cam is just easy insurance that everything will work how it was designed to
 

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Play with the duty cycle some before you degree the cam, degreeing may work but can have other effects
 

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Discussion Starter #9
on my old set up, I had idle screw a tad bit high and the IACV duty cycle almost -50%.. that's all i could get to work.. and that was hours and hours of fucking with that bitch. BUT it worked!

I'm beginning to think that this iacv has had all it can take.. it's ancient, really..
 

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Get a wideband and a laptop and TUNE it,

Ya Tuner.



Close up all your Vacuum Leaks, set the IAC at 0, Adjust the screw to ~ 1000 hot idle.

IACV and EGR switched? Pull IACV off intake and have someone flip the Key, fill the valve with brake clean and check it's operation.

Virtual Problems: Voltage Battery Offsets, Idle Region of the Map, Basic Shit
Physical Problems: Fuel Pump on Stock wires? Fuel Pressure? Stock FPR maxed out? Vacuum leaks?


That cam will idle worse and worse Daily until you take it out.


It's like dating a woman, you paid for the expensive Dinner Date, now talk so you can go home and haul ass.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Get a wideband and a laptop and TUNE it,

Ya Tuner.

-I have wide band, neptune, demon.. sitting on a stock p28 map right now though, with stock injectors and fpr to break it in.

Close up all your Vacuum Leaks, set the IAC at 0, Adjust the screw to ~ 1000 hot idle.
-This I did. and I thought I had it set perfect.. then the cooling fan kicked on..

IACV and EGR switched? Pull IACV off intake and have someone flip the Key, fill the valve with brake clean and check it's operation.

Virtual Problems: Voltage Battery Offsets, Idle Region of the Map, Basic Shit
Physical Problems: Fuel Pump on Stock wires? Fuel Pressure? Stock FPR maxed out? Vacuum leaks?


That cam will idle worse and worse Daily until you take it out.


It's like dating a woman, you paid for the expensive Dinner Date, now talk so you can go home and haul ass.

will respond more later.. gotta go..
 

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Doesn't sound like a Stock P28 does it?

Why you running the map?


"Yeaaahhh... I'll take vanilla because I don't know what those other flavors taste like."


"Basemap..." Bleh! What the hell is that....

You have the fancy tools and don't use them..

It's like everyone else with Google.



So maybe you can learn to fish, rather than asking us for your fish



Ask yourself,

What system does the Fan interacts with...?
 

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as i stated tuning the car made a huge difference intill the cam broke as thetoaster is trying to tell u before it happens..

check rockers every 1500miles with that cam
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Get a wideband and a laptop and TUNE it,

Ya Tuner.

-I have wide band, neptune, demon.. sitting on a stock p28 map right now though, with stock injectors and fpr to break it in.

Close up all your Vacuum Leaks, set the IAC at 0, Adjust the screw to ~ 1000 hot idle.
-This I did. and I thought I had it set perfect.. then the cooling fan kicked on..

IACV and EGR switched? Pull IACV off intake and have someone flip the Key, fill the valve with brake clean and check it's operation.

Virtual Problems: Voltage Battery Offsets, Idle Region of the Map, Basic Shit
Physical Problems: Fuel Pump on Stock wires? Fuel Pressure? Stock FPR maxed out? Vacuum leaks?
Fuel pump is on stock wires.. could be something to look into. Stock FPR is just doing stock things for breaking it in.


That cam will idle worse and worse Daily until you take it out.
bummer to hear that!.

It's like dating a woman, you paid for the expensive Dinner Date, now talk so you can go home and haul ass.
I'm just trying to get a basic idle configured and break in the motor a bit before I get it tuned.. I'm running stock injectors to break in as-per Bob @ RCauto's instructions.
I have a basemap and 1000cc ID's to drop in once I get it broken in.
The motor has run maybe a total of 20 minutes and it hasn't been driven on at all..

I understand that tuning is going to be a major part but I figure that I ought to be able to get it to idle on a stock tune/injectors before I go adding more variables to the situation, maybe not though..
The motor has run maybe a total of 20 minutes.. It hasn't been driven on at all..
Thanks for all of your guys' input!
 
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