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Discussion Starter #1
95 LX. My car is 14 years old and has never had its timing belt replaced, the car has 65K miles. I decided to replace it because my new job requires driving (35K a year). I soaked the bolt in penetrating oil, then hit it with my industrial strength Milwaukee impact wrench and it didn't budge!!

All of the hardware is OEM, when I bought the car, most of the rubber mounts/bushings had to be replaced. All of the bolts were rusted stuck, I snapped off the heads of most of the bolts when I used the impact gun and penetrating oil.

I don't want to snap the crank bolt, so I'm going to use a breaker bar and homemade crank pulley holding tool. My friend the mechanic told me to heat the bolt first since I'm replacing the oil seal, should I? He said to use propane and get it cherry red, let it cool, then crank it with the breaker bar with a cheater. How hot should it get, and should it cool to touch before cranking it or crank it when its still hot?
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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a propane torch wont get it hot enough, use an acedeline torch and get it cherry red, then smack it one good time with a 3 lb hammer (hit it dead on) the take your impact wrench to it. it should come right off after that.


I know because I had to take mine to napa and have it done
 

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Classic Man
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wow




dont use heat, you will fuck up the dampener. (unless its a D15, then you could get away with it)

just use a good impact, it will come off. or the holder/socket method.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
a propane torch wont get it hot enough, use an acedeline torch and get it cherry red, then smack it one good time with a 3 lb hammer (hit it dead on) the take your impact wrench to it. it should come right off after that.


I know because I had to take mine to napa and have it done
I guess I'll use my oxy-mapp kit, that's close to acetylene.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
wow




dont use heat, you will fuck up the dampener. (unless its a D15, then you could get away with it)

just use a good impact, it will come off. or the holder/socket method.
What's a good impact, a quick jolt with a cheater or smacking the breaker bar with a sledge?
 

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Classic Man
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a good impact gun.

i suspect yours is either tired or the air supply is not adequate.

my 300ftlb impact did 90% of crank pulley bolts, and the 450ftlb did the rest w/o any issues


try tightening then loosening it a few times and see if u have more luck
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It a new 1/2" 300 ftlb Milwaukee 120V impact gun, a $200 waste :(

Danz, a "D15 dampener," my LX is a D15B7? I didn't think my pulley was a dampener or had rubber?
 

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lol i always see these threads but i've NEVER had a problem with getting a crank pulley off. I guess the 20 year old craftsman impact i use is the shit lol. But yea dont heat it up, just get a damn good impact and it should come off.
 

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i used a pan compressor with a 1/2 impact walmart brand and it gets the job done easy..
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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lol i always see these threads but i've NEVER had a problem with getting a crank pulley off. I guess the 20 year old craftsman impact i use is the shit lol. But yea dont heat it up, just get a damn good impact and it should come off.
Ive broke a craftsman 1/2 inch breaker bar and 17 mm socket doing it the cheater bar way, I HAD to heat it up
 

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ok a shop's impact couldnt even get my bolt off. in the end the guy took a torch to it, got it real hot, then took the impact to it. came right off. d15b2 so same engine as you
 

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Discussion Starter #15
A 4' cheater bar was not enough, I had to heat it to get it off! 2 Problems;

1) A part or my lower timing cover (behind the pulley) is toasted, can I cut out the warped plastic, risk damaging my new timing belt, or just shell out the money at a dealers?

2) Before I removed the old t-belt I set the engine to TDC. First I set the cam gear, I don't have an UP mark but I made sure the horizontal marks were right and the other mark was set to the plastic pointer. However my crankshaft pulley TDC mark was about a half inch away from the V-notch. Was/is my timing off, should I position both pulley's to TDC before I install the new belt or leave it be? I was getting 30 mpg before as an aggressive driver.
 

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1)Umm just take out the pulley and you can remove the lower timing cover?

2) You set the cam gear to TDC, with the word up being up, line the 2 marks with head surface (it'll be slanted compared to ground because head surface is slightly slanted). Then you line up the crank pulley's white mark (group of 3, then 1 white mark by itself) you want the one separate from the 3, with the lower timing cover mark. Then you put the belt on and yadayadayada

Easier would be to rotate crank to TDC, then loosen tensioner, slip belt off cam gear, use 12mm socket to rotate it to TDC, then slip belt back on. You want it exact because I had it off by 1 tooth and I could barely make it up hills in 2nd
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
1)Umm just take out the pulley and you can remove the lower timing cover?

2) You set the cam gear to TDC, with the word up being up, line the 2 marks with head surface (it'll be slanted compared to ground because head surface is slightly slanted). Then you line up the crank pulley's white mark (group of 3, then 1 white mark by itself) you want the one separate from the 3, with the lower timing cover mark. Then you put the belt on and yadayadayada

Easier would be to rotate crank to TDC, then loosen tensioner, slip belt off cam gear, use 12mm socket to rotate it to TDC, then slip belt back on. You want it exact because I had it off by 1 tooth and I could barely make it up hills in 2nd
1) The pulley is off, the heat required to remove it, melted the lower timing cover. I cut the deformed melted plastic away and plan on using it until my new cover comes, I don't think a larger hole will cause any damage for a few days, some people run with out any timing covers.

2) When I do t-belts I set the cam or crank to TDC, then mark a tooth with whiteout on the cam and crank gear, then I mark the 2 adjacent teeth on the t-belt. I copy the marks to the new belt to ensure the timing is the same as before.

I'm afraid the belt jumped a tooth in the past and someone advanced the the dizzy to set the correct timing, so if I set the crank and cam to the TDC marks my timing could be off and I currently don't have a timing light to adjust if needed.
 
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