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Discussion Starter #1
I've got a Civic RT4WD wagon with a 3 cylinder D16A6. (No compression on #3) It's burned oil for a while, so it was bound to happen.

Hitting the scrapyard soon and figuring I'm gonna Frankenstein the engine. I'm building this engine for FUEL ECONOMY. 120ish HP in a daily beater is plenty. If I wanna go fast, I hop on two wheels.

I'd like to use my A6 pistons with a Y8 head. That should net me about 10:1 compression which should do fine on 87 Octane.

I'd like to run Distributorless using a Megasquirt ECU and a D17 valve cover with coils on the plugs.

To do that, I would need a crank angle sensor on the block.

I know the D16Y8 has a sensor on the crank sprocket. Does the A6 block have that provision?

I don't want to run a D16Y8 block for a couple reasons:

1.) It's less for me to buy at the scrapyard.
2.) It's a gamble if it's gonna have the holes for the Left (driver's side) intermediate shaft.
3.) I've heard of oiling problems with the EK series blocks. I'll keep my A6 crank. Gonna have to keep my A6 oil pan and pickup anyhow, as it clears the exhaust and rear drivetrain.
 

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Classic Man
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Use a Y8 timing belt cog with the timing wheel and a Y8 oil pump, plug the dip stick hole in the oil pump and figure out a timing cover.


Ive never done it but it should work.
 

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Classic Man
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I would assume Y8 or Y7, because the lower portion is setup for the oil pump. The rest should match up well enough.

Worst case scenario chop out some of the A6 timing cover and rivet a piece of aluminum back over it if you really want it sealed up.
 

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1992 Civic DX Hatch
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\/Your Mom Was Here\/
Vibe GT
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Mixing oil pumps from the Y7/Y8 series on the earlier blocks only has a small issue with sealing the pan, but usually you use a Y8/Y7 pan and you can fill in the spots with JB weld but if you have to use the A6 pan you might have a different issue. Just something to pay attention to when you assemble this back.

From this thread: http://www.d-series.org/forums/engine-building/244537-how-use-y8-y7-pan-z6-engine.html#post4022489
First is obvious. You need a y8 or y7 oil pump. Second you need the timing belt cover and dipstick setup from the y8 or 7. Then you need to plug off the hole where the dipstick used to go through the block. (I used honda bond and a small bolt)

Now for the part that tripped me up the first time. The z6 rear oil seal had leaked like crazy around the pan seal and here is why.
20140705_140241 by rabidflickr, on Flickr

Here was the fix. I used jb weld metal putty to form a curve. Left it for one hour to cure and then shaped it with a die grinder and sandpaper.
20140705_162143 by rabidflickr, on Flickr
 

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Classic Man
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The A6 pickup and pan will work, but the Y8 oil pump might need slight altering to seal up well with the A6 pan. You would have to try to bolt them up to see if it will work or not. Does the Y8 pan not use a gasket? IIRC it uses a silicone bead.
 

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Silicone seal. If I remember correctly, there was an issue with the studs lining up correctly between the oil pump and the pan when I tried fitting the B7 pan on. Small issue if you have a welder.
 

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97 honda coupe
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you can also buy/build a tone ring for the cam sprocket if you would rather not do all that bottom end work. something similar to this, then you can use the ring wizard in megasquirt to find the correct numbers.



or perhaps if you dont care about being able to adjust the cam timing, welding this to the stock cam sprocket would work very well.

https://www.diyautotune.com/product/4-36-1-trigger-wheel/
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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putting the trigger on the cam still doesn't make any sense.

if you're doing it off the cam, use the stock VR sensors

doing it off the crank is more accurate and really the only reason to even mess with it.

people have run at least 9s on the stock setup
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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fixed it for ya bone. send rep to sailor for the tip
 

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Classic Man
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putting the trigger on the cam still doesn't make any sense.

if you're doing it off the cam, use the stock VR sensors

doing it off the crank is more accurate and really the only reason to even mess with it.

people have run at least 9s on the stock setup
The main reason I see why is to avoid the issues from cam flex. You dont think its happening, but that fucker is resonating and doing some crazy shit and twisting at higher engine speeds. Putting the sensor on the driven side of the cam will reduce that a lot.
 

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1992 Civic DX Hatch
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Putting on the crank eliminates. Cam twisting and belt strech issues. Heavy valve springs and big cams make this worse.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
A lot of good options here.

I was shying away from the Y8 oil pump due to the lack of volume/pressure over the A6 and Z6 pumps.

The ring that bolts to the cam sprocket or crank pulley is cheap and does the trick.

I just figure if I'm not using the distributor, why even have it. It's just another thing to clutter up the engine bay. Coil-On-Plug is cleaner and more efficient.
 

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You dont need timing cover

Belt flexes more than any metal does.

Crank timing is better.

Both is best.

Look at production D17 .Fluctuation is good to know.,
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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The main reason I see why is to avoid the issues from cam flex. You dont think its happening, but that fucker is resonating and doing some crazy shit and twisting at higher engine speeds. Putting the sensor on the driven side of the cam will reduce that a lot.
yes, better, but I think the belt is inducing more slop than a solid piece of steel.

honestly there's probably more slop in the dizzy drive to the stock sensor than in the entire cam flexing, which the camgear pickup does eliminate

buuuuuut
Putting on the crank eliminates. Cam twisting and belt strech issues. Heavy valve springs and big cams make this worse.
this is where I am - why go through the trouble to half fix it when it's the same amount of work to totally fix it?
 
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