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Discussion Starter #1
My weekend car has shown this weekend what has been causing it to run a little hotter. Turns out the issue was the radiator/radiator cap taking a dump on me.

The car is a 1999 Civic Si-Has a B20/VTEC with a greddy [email protected]
Makes 285whp

My question is this:

Currently had a Fluidyne half size dual core radiator with 12'' flexalite fan-but radiator went bad. So what radiator should I replace it with? Can I just go OEM radiator? Or do I need a dual core again?

I ordered a HKS 1.3 Bar radiator cap to help as well. I will continue to use the flexalite 12'' fan, but dont know what radiator to use.

Any input is appreciated

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
re

I know, it has me stumped too. It may be just the radiator cap.

If the radiator cap went bad, would it also cause the car to get hot quicker?

I am replacing the radiator cap first, but if that doesnt fix it, then I am looking at the radiator as well
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Another odd thing is that the upper hose is always way hotter than the lower return line from the radiator. Could this be due to a clog in the radiator? If so how do you go about flushing the radiator? Never had to do this before?

I do know that the radiator is somewhere around 5 or 6 years old as well. And the car was a Arizona car for most of its life if that would do any damage to it as well
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Lol yeah just replaced the thermostat about a week ago. And the cap on order.

Being a B20 bottom, there is no bleeder valve for the cooling system, so, I am wondering if I didnt get all the air bubbles out of the system.

To bleed it I have to put it up in the air with the radiator cap being the highest point and squeeze all the air out of the lines that way, which sucks alot
 

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i would def look at a thermostat before a radiator. and im positive thats your problem
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Since it isnt the thermostat, what do you recommend next?

Also forgot to add that it isnt overheating yet, but when under boost is when it starts to spray antifreeze from somewhere around the top of the radiator and the fan causes it to be sprayed
 

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or you can drain al the coolent, refill it til your radiator is full, turn the car on, heater on high, and when your thermostat opens, add more, burping the system.. leave radiator cap off... and try some antfreeze additives, that work very well for me
 

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where did you get the Thermo from? autoshit? advance autoshit? also you took cap off radiator, and turned heat on and let it idle to full temp when installing it? ive never heard of a radiator going bad unless its cracked..lol flush it.
 

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Since it isnt the thermostat, what do you recommend next?

Also forgot to add that it isnt overheating yet, but when under boost is when it starts to spray antifreeze from somewhere around the top of the radiator and the fan causes it to be sprayed

ok, so now your include more helpful info.... sounds like headlift to me.

are you using arp's?
 

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yep sounds like some headlift. if you running ARP what did you torque them to? and you used lube right? is your overflow box nasty looking? or fill up alot?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
lol it just info that I forgot until I thought about it.

I dont know honestly about them. I would think so, but not sure. I bought it built this way. I know it has Arias forged pistons/Eagle rods/ and ITR Cams with skunk2 valve springs and retainers.

Also had a cometic head gasket as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The coolant overflow? no it looks very clean. I wish I knew if it had arps or not.

He had the work done at a shop, so that why I also would assume that they were arp's and torqued down tighter as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The head gasket was checked last week and checked out good. and no exhaust gas in the coolant either. If this helps also.

Since this happened I have turned boost down to around 9 psi.

I havent drove it since either
 

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well, headlift could only be at higher boost levels.. and if the bottom end is built, im hope they didnt cheap out on some head studs which im sure they didnt. i say turn the boost down, and run it... if temps are fine, turn the boost up... if temps go up, youve found your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
However also this is the first time I have actually seen anti-freeze that has seaped out of the radiator. I assume it to be from being under boost. But as it is the first time I am not sure of this.

Is there something i can do to check to see if it is indeed the heade lifting?

I am planning my course of actions to be- replace the radiator cap/flush out the radiator/then bleed the system again. And see what happens. and also leave it around 9psi until then.

Any other tips?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
re

well, headlift could only be at higher boost levels.. and if the bottom end is built, im hope they didnt cheap out on some head studs which im sure they didnt. i say turn the boost down, and run it... if temps are fine, turn the boost up... if temps go up, youve found your problem.
Basically at low boost if my temps are ok, then increase boost.

If this in turn raises teh temps-then head is lifting and I need to get ARP head studs and torque them down appropriately?
 
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