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92 Civic Hatch
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Discussion Starter #1
OK guys, Im in a bit of a Delimma

Recently had car Tuned on E85, running 22psi. on my final run ended up blowing coolant OUT the Radiator cap. Coolant IS NOT going into the overflow at all.

I just pulled my head this weekend, and replaced the head gasket with a Mr. Gasket MLS steel headgasket. Torqued my head studs to 65lbs in 3 steps. It is fine under normal driving, but in Boost it still likes to blow coolant straight out the radiator cap.

My searches have resulted in the following common responses

Head lift- get car retuned with less timing / have head re-milled flat
Blown HG
Bad Themostat/Radiator cap

If it is the timing, which i believe it very well could be since I am running E85, and my tuner said you can run a little more timing with it, should I replace the HG AGAIN, and go get re-tuned?

Im leaning toward yes just to eliminate any chance of failure again...

Just looking for more re-inforcement I guess, that and to make sure Im not over looking anything.



ALSO: Can you get your head milled flat without completely dissassembling it and removing your valves, springs etc? Ive never done it before so.....?

All helpful posts will be repped!:bigok:
 

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Dude, I had the exact same results with my E85 build. Coolant blew out the coolant tank though...but in the end, it's still headlift. 20-21 psi on E with a Bullseye 55 trim .60/.63...whp results after boost turned down due to headlift, 399whp. I still think that my tuner advanced the timing too aggressively, I mean...who makes 423whp at 21 psi on a 55 trim? IDK, I can tell you this...I wasn't about to back to the tuner and pay MORE money; I'd figure I'd do what I could to fix the issue. I replaced the OEM HG with a Fel-Pro, installed BRAND NEW ARPs to 70ft lbs, and retarted the dizzy as far as it could go. You know what, I didn't have headlift after that point. I dragged the car EVERY Thursday until the end of the season w/o issue.

Anyhow, since your motor is still pushing coolant it means that your NEW HG is shot bro...bummer. But try this before you go back to your tuner and spend more money on another HG. Do what I did, back off the timing on the dizzy and see if that helps at all. If it does, I'd start with the tune being like mine...too aggressive.

If you have more questions about your situation, I'd be glad to help with advice from my previous experiences. PM me if you'd like...good luck bro!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
BLK92^^^ Thanks man, I will Definitely try that! Might be just what I need.....Hopefully lol

kind of dreading spending another 170 bucks on head studs and a head gasket..... than another possible 120$hr for tuning...

Head studs have less than 4k miles on them
 

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Yeah, your studs are fine if you only torqued them to 65 ft lbs.

Check this, after my motor starting throwing coolant my tuner asked about what my torque setting was on my head studs. I said 70 ft lbs in three steps. He said that seemed low. Tuner preceded to make some calls to other boosted sohc owners in the area he recommended me to torque mine from 70 to 93ft lbs! No, I'm not kidding! The sad part...I did what he recommended. SOOOOOOO glad that @ 90+ ft lbs it didn't strip the threads and that it didn't break a stud. At this torque setting we tried one last run, but it pushed coolant yet again. Called it right there...sad sad sad.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah, your studs are fine if you only torqued them to 65 ft lbs.

Check this, after my motor starting throwing coolant my tuner asked about what my torque setting was on my head studs. I said 70 ft lbs in three steps. He said that seemed low. Tuner preceded to make some calls to other boosted sohc owners in the area he recommended me to torque mine from 70 to 93ft lbs! No, I'm not kidding! The sad part...I did what he recommended. SOOOOOOO glad that @ 90+ ft lbs it didn't strip the threads and that it didn't break a stud. At this torque setting we tried one last run, but it pushed coolant yet again. Called it right there...sad sad sad.
Wow... glad you came around after that!

Im only making 318WHP and 251tq at 22psi with E85 and 55A/R.

When I hit Higher boost 19ish or so, I did notice i was getting some missfire (or what I believe was missfire) but that was also when I was pushing coolant out my cap, so maybe it was because I was pushing all the air/fuel into the coolant system? or maybe it was detonation, explaning the coolant issue..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Seems like a lot of people running y8 heads on other blocks have head lift problems...Might take my D15B head in to be refurbed, then get re-tuned...
 

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Del Sol
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Most I've torqued ARPs to was 80ft/lb in 3-4 steps but was on a non-honda car.

Head lift + BHG

You can have a head milled with valves and such in side but you have to remove the cam so they are all seated. So long as you arn't going crazy with the material coming off.

I'd try a new tuner or backing off the psi just a hair
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, Im gunna call Brian my Tuner, and see what he thinks, and see if he'll work with me, or maybe just do a few street pulls and pull a little timing.

Gunna start with a new radiator cap first, and retarding the dizzy all the way
 

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you should contact a different tuner and get a second opinion.

also did your re-torque your head after xxx miles? i never used arp's but i thought your supposed to re-torque your head after so many miles.

also the head lift and HG issues have already been covered so i dont need t mention those

good luck dude that sucks to hear
 

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you should contact a different tuner and get a second opinion.
this^

also did your re-torque your head after xxx miles?
yes, there is a tq check after 10 heat cycles. iirc. could check the box of arps in the corner of my room, but i am sleepy :p

IMO, i think the tuner went wild with the timing while not paying attention to the a/f he is suppose to have with E85.. if he doesnt know its suppose to be different vs gas, definitely go to another tuner.

edit: also replace your rad cap after you replace your HG. the spikes in pressure could damage it.
 

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EG
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I'm pretty new to mods and stuff...but did u replace the cap, I had a similar problem where coolant was coming thru when I hit 20psi's, mech told me that it may be the head...but after checking (comp test...looking in coolant...loss of power, which i guess you did,) i got none of those symptoms, replaced the cap same prob...turned out it was the neck of the radiator...replaced it and i was good
 

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Discussion Starter #18
you should contact a different tuner and get a second opinion.

also did your re-torque your head after xxx miles? i never used arp's but i thought your supposed to re-torque your head after so many miles.

also the head lift and HG issues have already been covered so i dont need t mention those

good luck dude that sucks to hear
I did retorque my head after a few heat cycles, but i didnt have a chance to put more than 50 miles on it before it started doing it again...

this^

yes, there is a tq check after 10 heat cycles. iirc. could check the box of arps in the corner of my room, but i am sleepy :p

IMO, i think the tuner went wild with the timing while not paying attention to the a/f he is suppose to have with E85.. if he doesnt know its suppose to be different vs gas, definitely go to another tuner.

edit: also replace your rad cap after you replace your HG. the spikes in pressure could damage it.
My Tuner does E85 quite a bit, he knows about the different requirements for it. But I agree, I think its a timing issue. New cap is going on once I get back to my car

i was thinking the same did you retourqe it after so many heat cycles? that could be some of the reason too
It was re-torque'd yes

take some timing out of the maps, i bet the problem goes away....

that is of course if u have true surfaces and a non-chinese hg.
It was a Mr. Gasket MLS Steel HG. Ordered off of summit racing

can you post pics of your maps? maybe one of the guys on here who tunes can take a look and make sure its a tune issue. just an idea.
I wouldnt mind doing this, but I dont have an Eprom reader So I dont think I can. I do have a moates HULOG cable though...Can I work with that and somehow still do it?

I'm pretty new to mods and stuff...but did u replace the cap, I had a similar problem where coolant was coming thru when I hit 20psi's, mech told me that it may be the head...but after checking (comp test...looking in coolant...loss of power, which i guess you did,) i got none of those symptoms, replaced the cap same prob...turned out it was the neck of the radiator...replaced it and i was good
I might end up replacing the radiator, its the OEM radiator which is 20 YRS old.. so its probably time regardless.

Thanks for all the feed back guys!
 
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