Honda D Series Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
a car
Joined
·
1,461 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
ok since i didnt see a DIY on here i wanted to make one. why keep sending people to other forums when we can just point them to our very own DIY.

********BACKGROUND INFO

there seems to be a bit of confusion on differentiating between a manual and automatic ecu, let me clarify.

MANUAL P28-A0. P28 is the type of ecu, the "A" is for made in united states, and "0" is a manual ecu

AUTOMATIC P28-A5. this is the same way, except for being a "5" instead of a "0". this means that the ecu is for an automatic car.

TOOLS YOU WILL NEED:
soldering iron - make sure it is clean
some braided copper solder removal
suction tool - optional to remove solder
thin rosin core solder
very small paper clip
steady hands

WHAT YOU WILL BE DOING.
you will be removing the RP18 and RP17 resistors. in place of the RP18 resistor you will be installing a jumper wire, a paper clip works great, already bent, best width.



ok the first thing to do is check and make sure you have the correct ecu, you can look in 2 places. 1st is on the case, but you can swap cases, so the best place to look is on the inside of the cover where the plugs go




here is the area we will be working with



so begin by turning the chip face down and place the copper braid between the solder and soldering iron. this will head the copper braid and pull the solder into the braid. ***check you tube for good videos, "SOLDER REMOVAL"

here is my first resistor removed










 

·
Registered
a car
Joined
·
1,461 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
now that we have one removed, go ahead and remove the other. it is best to remove all solder than you can, it makes live a whole lot easier





i dont know about anyone else, but for me, its pretty inevitable that you will get the board dirty a little, just dont hit it with the soldering iron, here is my pic of all the solder removed that i could get removed








now we install our jumper wire like so, i used a small paper clip(very small), you can also use a safety pin and bend that. the big limitation is the diameter of what you are using.








ALL DONE!
 

·
Registered
a car
Joined
·
1,461 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
here is a pic of the first ecu i ever did










as you can see the first one i did was kinda shabby, but it does work. i have it in the car now and have put 400miles on it since this past friday
 

·
Registered
a car
Joined
·
1,461 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
ALSO**************

i know i am not the only one who does this, i know first hand finding manual p28 ecu's is a challenge. and there has to be more people converting them. so i invite other uses on here to post their before/after photos of their converted ecu. p28's only please, i dont want people getting confused between a p28 and p2p.
 

·
Registered
95 hatch
Joined
·
1,104 Posts
Does it work the same way converting from manual to auto?
except remove the jumpers and put in the proper resistors?
 

·
Registered
a car
Joined
·
1,461 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
no, you have to have the transistors or whatever they are called. if you have a manual ecu just sell it and pick up an auto ecu.

plus you can make bank off of a manual ecu lol
 

·
Registered
a car
Joined
·
1,461 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
here is a manual ecu - ignore the yellow arrows, they are point to a capacitor that blew. you can see where the manual ecu does not have the black things and the auto does


 

·
Registered
95 hatch
Joined
·
1,104 Posts
K so the auto has 2 transistors/fet's.

Do you happen to have the numbers on those two pieces?
I know it sounds weird me wanting to convert to auto, but i have a p06 converted to vtec/chipped i need to convert to auto / remove vtec =\

Or buy an auto p06, but everyone wants to rape me on the price
 

·
Registered
95 hatch
Joined
·
1,104 Posts
Anyways, good write up man, i'm sure it'd help a lot of people who want to convert to manual, and it costs almost nothing to do.
 

·
Registered
a car
Joined
·
1,461 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
yeah it costs next to nothing. and im not 100% sure on converting the other way. you may want to pm a few members on here about that
 

·
Registered
a car
Joined
·
1,461 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
its not that bad man, just takes patience and steady hands :bigok: mine is still running strong since the first post in this thread
 

·
Registered
1989 Honda CRX
Joined
·
246 Posts
I just got done converting my ecu about 15 minutes ago, I haven't got my CRX out of the shop yet so I don't have a car to test it on right now, but it looks close enough to your pictures so hopefully it will work.

This is a great wright up on how to convert the ecu. It definitely isn't had hard as I thoug it was gonna be, but I didn't have the suction tool to get the old solder out, so I had to make due with my paper clip.

If you don't have a suction tool then you can do like did, and heat up one side while pushing the paper clip through the other side. It works better if you have two people, one to hold the ecu and solder iron, while you push the paper clip through the other side.
 

·
Registered
a car
Joined
·
1,461 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
^ true, but its always best to remove as much solder as possible. the suction tool IMO sucks ass. i like the braided copper better, it absorbs the solder.

and i did that trick with heating the solder or heating directly on top of the resistor to help pull it out. but you just have to be careful to not knick the board and fk anything up :bigok:
 

·
Formally D_Tuned
97 civic HX
Joined
·
2,884 Posts
So does that mean when converting to manual those two things (not RP17 & RP18, but the things referred to in the pic) need to be removed as well, or are they ok to stay?
They are called "high side switches" and yes they are ok to stay. By changing the resistor configuration you are disabling the circuit that uses them all together.

They are basically a Mosfet Transistor or "relay"
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top