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Continuation of Test the limits of a D15b7!!!!

15223 Views 94 Replies 27 Participants Last post by  dpaqu
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Well I figured I would start this thread here because I have now boosted the little d15 and the other tread was in the N/a section.

To give you a recap of all the things this little motor has had done to it in the last couple of months. view here http://www.d-series.org/forums/naturally-aspirated/159084-let-test-limit-d15b7.html

went to y8 intake and 60mm ls throttle body. This made close to the power of the itb's but used much less fuel and had fewer idle control problems. Also change ecu to a p06 which worked very well with the stock y7 cam profile compared to a p28. The stock p06 ecu achieve the best fuel mileage ever out of the car it consistently got 38.5 miles per gallon on average

During all this I was building my turbo kit and now have it installed few pics of the setup




the turbo is a precision 60 trim 63A/r exhaust ball bearing.
cx racing intercooler donated by a friend.
rc550 injectors for fuel enrichment
ebay cast manifold exchanged for paint ball gun that sat in closet for years.
every thing else fab by me and my tuner.

It is currently on 3psi now because wastegate has a leaky diaphragm. We also installed the lightest wastegate spring we could find in the shop because it currently has no intercooler. I lack the piping. :( I am ordering it on Friday when I get paid. This being said we still tuned it at this setting starting from a previous map of a similar set up. It pulls almost as hard as my friends b20 vtec hatch but heat sokes quickly so only really go it to boost on cool nights. I hope to have the intercooler piping, new wastegate, and tuned on at least 6psi by the time IFO comes in the beginning of October just curious what she will run hoping for low 14's.
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yep besides arp rod bolts, head studs, and seal power bearings
my tuner says it pulls real good for what it is right now
I have a buddy that pushed his stock rods with arp's to 287whp and ran it that way for 8 years with no problems. Then he sold the car and the guy upped the boost 2lbs and bent a rod.
that would be awesome if I could achieve that do you know his combination. I know the turbo I have now is more than capable of getting there at a reasonable boost level like 12 psi or so
I have a buddy that pushed his stock rods with arp's to 287whp and ran it that way for 8 years with no problems. Then he sold the car and the guy upped the boost 2lbs and bent a rod.
That's insane

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Well we all are a little of that for staying with single cam Honda for all this time but that is alot of power to be pulling from a stock 1.5l bottom end but nothing is impossible
What turbo kit are you running looks AC friendly
It is a/c friendly it mostly custom the down pipe is made from one 3" ubend from jegs for 30 bucks and has two vband clamps to remove the bottom section if you need to get to the oil pan. I will post up a picture of down pipe with an a/c compresser bolted on when I get home my phone is being lame and won't upload the image
It is a/c friendly it mostly custom the down pipe is made from one 3" ubend from jegs for 30 bucks and has two vband clamps to remove the bottom section if you need to get to the oil pan. I will post up a picture of down pipe with an a/c compresser bolted on when I get home my phone is being lame and won't upload the image
Looks awesome, may run out of injectors and I know a tuner who got close to 300hp with stock z6 bottom end too. :)
Are you having the big end's of the rods re-sized for the arp rod bolts.

Per instructions it says having the big end re-sized after torquing the arp rod bolts down. Curious if people where even doing this?
Looks awesome, may run out of injectors and I know a tuner who got close to 300hp with stock z6 bottom end too. :)
def interested in pics i want to go with a similar setup
The last 1.5 turbo motor my tuner tuned broke a rod at about 250hp don't know for sure because it was never dynoed but it held almost 12 psi out of an eBay 50 trim 63 exhaust For almost 2 weeks before they turn the rev limiter up to 7200 from 6800 causeing it to break number one rod in half and punch two holes in the block one on each side.

With that being said mine should hold 8 psi no problems with this turbo and make and hopefully make 200whp
Are you having the big end's of the rods re-sized for the arp rod bolts.

Per instructions it says having the big end re-sized after torquing the arp rod bolts down. Curious if people where even doing this?

No we didnt even pull the motor we were changing the oil pan and decided to check the rod bearings to see if they had been changed and they were down to the copper so we got a ride to advance and bought new sealpower rod and mains. I already had the arp rod bolts and head studs fixing to go into a p29 z6 I was building before mine quit. So we just pulled the main cap installed the new bearings. Taped out the old rod bolts. They were beginning to stretch. And installed the new ones toque them to spec and did that two or three times and left it. We also took the oil pump off and put the ported and shimed z6 pump on it. Basicly rebuilt the engine in the car with out pulling out the pistons in the car lol still alive after 30k of hard abuse.

We check number 3 rod bearing when we installed the turbo kit and it had very little ware
Are you having the big end's of the rods re-sized for the arp rod bolts.

Per instructions it says having the big end re-sized after torquing the arp rod bolts down. Curious if people where even doing this?
I thought this was mandatory because of the installation of the rod bolts. I thought that it puts the big end out of round. Bone had a pic of one being resized or whatever the process is called. It was recent.
def interested in pics i want to go with a similar setup
Here is the set up on my mock up motor right before it went into the car.

As for the rod resizing for the arp bolts I did have this done on the all motor z6 rods and my machinist barely touch them with the honer to bring them into spec. My tuner as rebuilt many engines this way and has not had one failure because of changing the bolts so I'm confident that it will last a long time.
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Your drain line doesn't actually run like that does it?
yes, its not bother by anything and contentiously goes down all the way to the pan. I think we reclock the center section of turbo a little more after that picture to better position the 90* fitting to allow it to flow better

also used a oil pick up tube off a d series to get the flange for the drain tube if you all wanted to know how that worked. just welded a steel -10 An fitting after cuting the tube off
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Here is some more pictures of the car that i have just uploaded from my phone

That precision is a real tight fit even with slimline fans

this area is going to get a little crowded after I put a new a/c compressor in here

here is a pic of my 3" exhaust on the car while on the lift

this is the front mount installed with no intercooler piping attached (real soon ordering today)

cock pit with my Momo 320 Monte Carlo extended hub and NRG quick release
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This is my competition its my dad's 340 dodge dart this thing leaves

http://youtu.be/qVxDp3tENN8

Did this as a test to see if i could make it work
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