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Hey guys, got some more parts for my hmt kit but havnt started puttin any of it on. Some guys told me to do a compression check on each cylinder. What kind of numbers should i be looking for for the compression of each cylinder? and they should all be within 10 psi of eachother am i right?

any help appreciated! Thanks
 

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basically you are looking for consistency, not a set #. it will vary a lot and there are a lot of factors that can change your #s

also do a leakdown test if you have access to the right tools
 

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If you haven't already got the tools/parts for the comp test, I got mine for cheap at Harbour Freight...
 

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basically you are looking for consistency, not a set #. it will vary a lot and there are a lot of factors that can change your #s

also do a leakdown test if you have access to the right tools
:TU:
 

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a compression test is of the upmost importants when it comes to boosting basically the pcv valve pull the air (PRESSURE) via the intake manifold from the crank , its a one way valve, u can do a basic check of the of the valve which is use yr mouth trying blowing air in to it and u will notice its totally impossible try sucking on it and u will c what happens (try it) also when boosting one needs to drill a hold in the stump pan for the return line of the oil from the turbo ,remembering the stump is also pressurize (this is where the pcv valve comes in the pull this pressure out of the stump)now with the compression test with most d series u get like 175 -200 all depends on the motor u have lets say u have 175 compression in cylinders 1 2 and 3 and # 4 u have 120 this indicates that something is wrong somewhere in most cases it could b a broken ring, piston or burn valves ;;;;;;;;;;;;;with burn valves the pressure in the head rises pushing a greater amount of oil out the breather hole this is where a catch can comes in ;;;;;;;;;;;;but if the problem is in the block the pressure is so great that it push the oil up the return line to the turbo then u c all kinds of white smoke coming from yr exhaust
 

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a compression test is of the upmost importants when it comes to boosting basically the pcv valve pull the air (PRESSURE) via the intake manifold from the crank , its a one way valve, u can do a basic check of the of the valve which is use yr mouth trying blowing air in to it and u will notice its totally impossible try sucking on it and u will c what happens (try it) also when boosting one needs to drill a hold in the stump pan for the return line of the oil from the turbo ,remembering the stump is also pressurize (this is where the pcv valve comes in the pull this pressure out of the stump)now with the compression test with most d series u get like 175 -200 all depends on the motor u have lets say u have 175 compression in cylinders 1 2 and 3 and # 4 u have 120 this indicates that something is wrong somewhere in most cases it could b a broken ring, piston or burn valves ;;;;;;;;;;;;;with burn valves the pressure in the head rises pushing a greater amount of oil out the breather hole this is where a catch can comes in ;;;;;;;;;;;;but if the problem is in the block the pressure is so great that it push the oil up the return line to the turbo then u c all kinds of white smoke coming from yr exhaust
And you put an Edge on it all blade!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for all the help guys, very much appreciated, answered all my questions! NEEZ
 

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most d series u get like 175 -200 all depends on the motor u have lets say u have 175 compression in cylinders 1 2 and 3 and # 4 u have 120 this indicates that something is wrong somewhere in most cases it could b a broken ring, piston or burn valves

how much would it be to replace ring or piston or repair burn valves? or would it be cheaper just to slap turbo on, blow it up then swap another d in? what would u do?
 

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where i am from it cost me about $130.00 which is about $65.00us for the rings alone about $1500.00 for the engine not sure what piston cost never had to buy but its up to u i guess if u r a true d-series lover u would never talk about blowing up an engine but do ya thing
 

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^^ please re-explain the sump issue.

sump ;;;;stump ;;;;oil pan ;;;;;u name it ;;;its the same thing
here is a good example of a pressurize sump stump or oil pan (lol)
a good friend of mine d16y8 turbo engine was having some problems with turbo leaking oil causing the car to smoke really bad he bought a new t3/t4 turbo bolt it up drive the car and get the same problem how likely would u get a new turbo with bad seals anyway after making some check of the engine the compression was low in one of the cylinder as i mention before only few problem can cause this burn valves ,broken rings or damage pistons ;;;;;;;;;;;the breather hole at the top of the head cover if u put yr finger on it the pressure u feel is the same in the sump try it remove the oil return line start the engine feel the pressure ;;;;;;;;we all should know that when placing the hole in the sump we place it above the oil level this is mainly for free flow of the oil from the turbo ;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;anyway with broken rings the compression escape the cylinder wall and travell between the wall and the piston into the sump therefore that compression pressurize the sump ;;;;now ask yrself where is this compression going it cant make its way up the pcv valve because on boost the valve is close (remember its a one way valve) so where is it going and if u know the basic about yr sump there is only one hole left that the hole u drill for the return line so thats where it goes and since its greater than normal it blows or push oil from the sump up yr turbo simple;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
 
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