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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I know it's not a D and all that, but hey, it's a Honda and we like pictures. So here goes...

Equipment list:

1. Stock R18A engine
2. Vertically oriented Comp Turbo CT2 with oil less center section
3. RDX 440 cc injectors
4. BKR8EIX-11 spark plugs modified for increased reach
5. Mazda RX7 intercooler with modified end cans
6. Used BOV from some stock Toyota. Don't exactly remember which one.
7. Custom plumbing using 304 SS
8. Haltech Platinum Sport 1000 and Device Emulator 8 running in tandem with the stock ECU using a custom built patch harness [big shout to 2jzdreamin for helping me out with the connectors]
9. EMUSA 44 mm wastegate with boost solenoid
10. ALM LSU-ADV wideband

Just finished building and installing everything after 10 grueling days of work. I still need to work on calibrating and tuning the Haltech. For now, the car is driveable on the stock ECU with boost, thanks to the MAF and knock sensors, and an ECU that is smart enough to compensate for injectors that flow at least 50% higher than stock. I'll post updates as and when I have them, but for now, here are some pics to get started.

This is what a stock R18 Civic engine bay looks like here:


We relocated the battery to the boot and ended up with a layout like this:




Exhaust plumbing WIP and a nice way to ring in my birthday :) :
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Very nice.

I keep telling myself that one day ill get an 8th gen civic and turbo it.

Is there any reason your mainly picked this turbo?
Thanks. :)

I had picked this turbo for myself because it didn't require an oil feed, and gave me flexibility to mount it anywhere in any orientation. My build kept getting delayed. Then this guy came along and we ordered a "genuine Disco Potato" from an eBay Motors seller. That turned out to be a clone, and we didn't want to waste time ordering another one down to India. So I suggested that we use my idly sitting turbo instead, and the guy agreed. So here we are...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Wiring and mounting the Haltech Device Emulator, ECU and wideband controller in parallel with the stock ECU:














Mount for the air filter box:



Everything comes together:
 

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ej8
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Hum, i thiught i reply to this.


Well what i said was.
I dont think its a good idea to mount that ecubin the bay.
I dont believe it is water proof and seal.
It would suck to get some water in that ecu and damage it.
I know at the very less that usb port will rust out and possible short out.
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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Hum, i thiught i reply to this.


Well what i said was.
I dont think its a good idea to mount that ecubin the bay.
I dont believe it is water proof and seal.
It would suck to get some water in that ecu and damage it.
I know at the very less that usb port will rust out and possible short out.
all the new honda stuff does it, my 2015 accord's ecu is between the motor and the airbox

domestics have been doing it for years too
 

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ej8
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all the new honda stuff does it, my 2015 accord's ecu is between the motor and the airbox

domestics have been doing it for years too
Yes but those are factory seal to block out water.
I dont believe the Haltech is tho.
 

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Highly recommend cutting and welding the stock manifold flange for the turbo.

that aftermarket one is suffocating the crap out of that turbo and appears to be roughly 2/3 of the stock opening.

Lots of power on the table with just that one piece

Looks like they cut off the honda fit's l15a7 flange and just grabbed the r18 flange off the shelf.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Yes but those are factory seal to block out water.
I dont believe the Haltech is tho.
You're right. The Haltech isn't sealed. I did, however, close every exposed orifice with sealant. We went out for a pretty long drive in a drizzle, and everything performed flawlessly. The customer has been DDing the car for over a week now without any problems.


Highly recommend cutting and welding the stock manifold flange for the turbo.

that aftermarket one is suffocating the crap out of that turbo and appears to be roughly 2/3 of the stock opening.

Lots of power on the table with just that one piece

Looks like they cut off the honda fit's l15a7 flange and just grabbed the r18 flange off the shelf.
It's not a readymade aftermarket flange. It's a custom LASER cut piece that I measured and got made to match the size of the port on the head. The stock opening is oversized, and not the other way round.
Take a look at the soot formed around the port. It will tell you exactly how much oversized the stock flange and gasket are.
 

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you want the exhaust bigger than the head port. Anti-reversion properties

same setup the L15A7 had on my 2013 Honda Fit. matched is okay. Oversize works better.

plus head port can be ported on the R18! future expansion perhaps for a bigger turbo
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The only thing I will even consider doing to that integrated piece of shit is mill it out of existence. This stupid engine is bigger, slower and thirstier than a D15 VTEC and I'm pretty sure that the exhaust is the reason why.

I make all my exhaust flange ports 1.5 - 2 mm wider than the head ports. With pipes inserted in the flanges, that makes for a matched port. Works fine for me.
 

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You do definately want the header ports significantly larger than the head port, maybe not as significantly as the stock one was, but at least a couple mm all the way around. So a header port that is around 0.5cm larger than the head port is about right.
 

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Isnt that the same ECU as a K series? Cant you just go the hondata route? Or was this cheaper/better for some reason?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The USDM R18 ECU is not directly swappable here. In addition to the immobilizer, there are several inputs it expects that aren't available, and several additional wires here that aren't present in the USDM ECU. Even if we could somehow make one work, FlashPro for R18 doesn't support boost control. I absolutely wanted to implement boost by gear, so that ruled out the FlashPro option.
 

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you want the exhaust bigger than the head port. Anti-reversion properties

same setup the L15A7 had on my 2013 Honda Fit. matched is okay. Oversize works better.

plus head port can be ported on the R18! future expansion perhaps for a bigger turbo

You do definately want the header ports significantly larger than the head port, maybe not as significantly as the stock one was, but at least a couple mm all the way around. So a header port that is around 0.5cm larger than the head port is about right.

Not for a small turbo. You want to have as little turbulence as possible since you are dealing with much, much higher pressures in the exhaust side of things due to the small turbine housing. As the fluid flow in the exhaust gets more dense, small disturbances in the flow become much worse. This is not something you have to worry about with a NA exhaust usually. I am fairly sure the stock mismatch is to promote torque production with the integrated outlet since you have a lot of port area dumping into a single attached volume. This is also likely promoting EGR in a non-traditional fashion.

Anyway . . . The engine is a pile of poo and I think that his decision was better for the turbo size and power goals, though I think that he could eventually optimize the outlet some more in order to keep things flowing more smoothly.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Quick update. The Comp Turbo unit turned out to be an steaming pile of shit. The original CT2 ended up crapping out all of its lubricant, and so did the replacement unit with their "latest and greatest" Oilless 2.0 CHRA.

Then we junked the entire oilless idea and installed the dodgy "Disco Potato" that we initially bought.



This was pretty short lived as well. It started consuming oil around 2000 miles later, and when we took it apart, it turned out to be anything but a GT2860RS as advertised. The damn thing had journal bearings.

So we decided to have a final crack at this and imported a *proper* GT2860S from a reputable eBay vendor. Installed it and kept it under observation for around 3000 miles, and when everything looked properly stable, hit the dyno. Here's the result:



For comparison, here's a dyno plot of another stock Civic [green] vs boosted Civic [red] on the very same dyno:


We didn't try to push beyond 8 psi considering the stock engine's 10.5:1 compression ratio. The last thing we needed was a dead engine on a dyno.

The engine was clearly unhappy when asked to rev high, and it had nothing to do with the turbo. I think the shitty IEM design is to blame here. I'll address that problem when I find some time.
 

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holy 6 month update

but glad to see yu got it working..

Sucks on the cloned potato.. fuckin ebay.. never know what will show up at your door.
 
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