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Discussion Starter #1
Alright I just got my motor and trans in. Before mating the trans to the motor I looked at the clutch and it had plenty of disc surface left so i didn't replace it. Well I should have. But my question is will it ever seat and stop slipping. It doesn't slip on normal driving. Only when driving it hard.

Thanks in advance CC
 

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OEM clutch disks are one of those things that if you can access it to go ahead and replace it. Same with an ISB. While you have the trans/PP/clutch out...replace the rear main seal. GL!
 

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99 integra ls-DD
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384 Posts
WTF? For 100-200HP, I would buy an Exedy Stage1 organic and call it a day.
ding ding ding, exedy oem replacement clutch kit is great for stock to 200 hp
i had them in my sohc and dohc before, grabs harder than stock and retain DD driveability. unless u plan to race all the time, its best bang for the buck, at $100 bucks you cant complain
 

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for 100-200hp go with some thing like a 6 puck Or Full Face Disc [ Ceramic, Cera-metalic, metalic, kevlaror, Fibertuff, Fiber-Carbon or carbon-Metalic] sprung! with a [ Race Heat treated Trippl Strap Biger Rivet plate or sport Heat treated dubl Strap Biger Rivet plate]

for 200-300hp go with some thing like a 6 puck [Cera-metalic] sprung! with a [ Drag Twin disc Style Plate Dual Dia or Race Heat treated Trippl Strap Biger Rivet plate! ]

for 300-600hp go with some thing like a 6 puck [Iron] Solid! with a [ Drag Twin disc Style Plate Dual Dia]

these are the one i like to use!
shut the fuck up and never give out clutch advice
 

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ding ding ding, exedy oem replacement clutch kit is great for stock to 200 hp
i had them in my sohc and dohc before, grabs harder than stock and retain DD driveability. unless u plan to race all the time, its best bang for the buck, at $100 bucks you cant complain
I was talking about the Stage 1, but the OEM replacement will do great by any basically stock engine.
 

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My Civic
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if its a older car and your trans is not hydrolic you may need to just adjust the cable, sometimes it helps sometimes not.

if you are not cable, and you're hydro you're screwed.
 

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if its a older car and your trans is not hydrolic you may need to just adjust the cable, sometimes it helps sometimes not.

if you are not cable, and you're hydro you're screwed.
The battery in his avatar is in the right place to have a cable trans. It couldn't hurt to check this.
 

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95 honda civic hatch
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1,006 Posts
clutch slipping=driver error.


^its not the driver...


if its a older car and your trans is not hydrolic you may need to just adjust the cable, sometimes it helps sometimes not.


^it is a cable trans. we messed wit the cable adjustments...still does same..


if you are not cable, and you're hydro you're screwed.
The battery in his avatar is in the right place to have a cable trans. It couldn't hurt to check this.
^ your right its cable...its n old clutch i think its jus time for new one...
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I'm not sure but it might be my cable. It is adjusted all the way and there is still play in the arm. But as I think about it more I don't think it is just a cable issue. When I put the tranny on the motor I didn't switch the throwout bearing. Could that be the cause of my problem?

The z6 bearing is not in it.
 

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clutch is gone change cable while your at it

posting a alot arent we




clutch slipping isnt only a bad clutch

bad cable ADJUSTMENT is 50% the cause on cable operated trannies


why change teh cable if teh clutch was bad like your advice says? no need to change cable if only the clutch is out.......
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The cable looks fairly new but thats dosent mean it not streched. Its just wired that I can remove the cable whit it fully adjusted out.(i dont have to remove the cable bracket)Something isnt right. Im just going to drope the tranny and replace the clutch and cable.

Should I use the clutch for the z6 motor or?
 
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