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98 dx sedan
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Discussion Starter #1
Dear D-fam,

Okay so im in the process of swapping my engine and transmission from an auto y7 to a manual y8

I've gotten a TON done and im getting close to completion, but now I have an issue with the clutch pedal

I can press it down, but it doesn't come back up, and I can pull it back up, but its kinda like a mousetrap in that after you pull it back to a certain point the spring kicks in and it sort of snaps

Any idea's on what this could be or how to fix this?! It's driving me insane and I can't find anything other than replacing the spring with a linear one but I don't understand why it wont work with the spring thats in there now!

Thanks in advance peeps!

love, 98dxnooby

p.s. no homo
 

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1988 Honda CRX
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6,676 Posts
Is it cable or hydraulic.
 

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98 dx sedan
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895 Posts
Discussion Starter #3

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98 dx sedan
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Discussion Starter #6
okay so the backpressure is what returns the pedal? I asked a friend of mine who works as a mechanic and he thought the spring should do it but its the fluid?

and thanks onatop and pat, rep for both of ju! :TU:
 

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98 dx sedan
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Discussion Starter #8
lol jumped the gun on this one i think..
haha yeah im thinkin that now :pinch: but hey, atleast i didnt get flamed for bein stupid :bigok:
 

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1988 Honda CRX
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It's the spring on the pressure plate that returns the pedal, so long as they are linked together via a cable or hydraulic press system
 

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1988 Honda CRX
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I only flame people for being rude or lazy.
 

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A Shitbox
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SEARCH GTFO NOOOOB!



















JK Ben :lol:

I'm shipping yo shizzzzz tomorrow, long long long day today.
 

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98 dx sedan
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Discussion Starter #14
SEARCH GTFO NOOOOB!








hahaha I love you bro, no homo :D











OKAY FOR EFFIN REAL NOW! i filled it, bled it, a thousand f*ckin times and it only returns if I push it halfway down....WHAT THE HECKS WRONG!?!?!?
 

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1988 Honda CRX
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6,676 Posts
The cluth diaphram going over centre?

The hydraulic cylinders are binding up inside.

The thrust race is not correctly installed.

The slave cylinder is incorrectly mounted.

The clutch lever in the bell housing is damaged or miss aligned or binding on something.
 

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Same as above
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leak somewhere? the diaphragm of the pressure plate is what should push the fluid back through the lines and push the solenoid in the master cylinder back which pushes the pedal back up. if the fluid leaks out when you depress the pedal your pedal will not return. even if you pull the pedal up the solenoid in the MS will not move since it's not attached to the shaft that's attached to the pedal. I find that tapping the solenoid by tapping the pedal where you can feel the solenoid brings the solenoid out sometimes. Sorry if you don't understand it's hard to explain.


the shaft on the pedal pushes the solenoid in the master cylinder but is not attached to the solenoid so it can't pull it. I would remove the master and slave cylinders and check for leaks. they have O-rings/seals that go bad.
 

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98 dx sedan
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Discussion Starter #17
Okay well I just replaced the master cylinder it's brand new and yeah I understand what you mean about it pushing but not pulling lol

I'm gonna try to atleast get the motor running first hen worry about the clutch and see if it's any different, and by the waynits nt leaking I checked the whole line system, my neighbors are both mechanics so maybe they can figure it out :TU: thanks people!
 

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98 dx sedan
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Discussion Starter #18
Okay new question, figured making a new thread would be pointless so I'll just add it in here, is it normal to be able to shift gears without pushing the clutch pedal in? I'm just sitting up on jackstands right now but that was a concern of a friend, it
seems fine to me since the clutch is only there for when power is involved right?

Other question, should there be play on the shift linkage? As in side to side it feels a little wobbly?

Final question! I damaged the threads on one ball joint, the plan is o re-thread it, and just out of curiosity I tried to screw a nut on anyway, but past finger tight the bolt itself started spinning, but the other side one never did that and I even used a self locking nut....
I guess my questions on this are "should I re-dye the threads or get a new lower balljoint assembly?" and also is it necessary to use the castle nuts that came on the car?cuzzzz I lost mine :) lol

sorry for all the questions guys, I'm thinking it's gonna be a startup day though and I'll make a showcase thread after with videos of the startup and a couple rippers! :TU: thanks peeps

love, big Ben
 

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1988 Honda CRX
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6,676 Posts
Good grief

If a ball joint fails you have a total loss of control of the car.

Castellated nuts are more expensive than normal nuts. Do you think All car makers use them with a split pin on steering joints just because they think it's nice to spend extra money.

If you have just burred the thread but not stripped it, clean it up with a die nut or a thread file. If it pulld down tight it is OK. If it starts to strip the thread before it pulls down tight enough, read real tight, IT IS NOT SAFE TO DRIVE THE CAR. YOU MIGHT CRASH AND KILL SOME POOR INNOCENT BYSTANDER

The ball joint will have a tapered shank where it fits into a tapered bore in the front suspension upright or knuckle. Clean the bore and the shank, even rough them up a bit with fine wet and dry so you get a satin finish on both surfaces. This will improve the grip and help stop it spinning as you tighten the proper castellated nut. Work abrasives up and down the shank, not across so you don't generate stress risers.

Tap the ball joint into the bore so it gets a grip on the taper. Once it starts to pull tight in the taper it will lock tight and not spin. A bit of oil on the thread only (absolutely not on the shank) will help.
 

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98 dx sedan
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Discussion Starter #20
Good grief

If a ball joint fails you have a total loss of control of the car.

Castlelated nuts are more expensive than normal nuts. Do you think All car makers use them with a split pin on steering joints just because they think it's nice to spend extra money.

If you have just bured the thread but not stripped it, clean it up with a die nut or a thread file. If it pulld down tight it is OK.

The ball joint will have a tapered shank where it fits into a tapered bore in the front suspension upright or knuckle. Clean the bore and the shank, even rough them uo a bit with fine wet and dry. Work abrasives up and down the shank, not across so you don't generate stress risers.

Tap the ball joint into the bore so it gets a grip on the taper. Once it starts to pull tight in the taper it will lock tight and not spin. A bit of oil on the thread only (absolutely not on the shank) will help.
I guess I didn't really think about the whole manufacturing thing, and I only figured that the castle nuts cost more, I haven't actually been able to find a price on a 17mm one.

As far as using another type of nut, I just figured that as a temporary replacement (until I get my car out of my garage and I can start cleaning up and find the castle nuts) that self-locking nuts with the cotter pins holding them on would be okay

As far as the shank and stuff is that underneath the balljoint boot? I'll go take a look, im sorry if im not very knowledgable about suspension pieces, im only eighteen and completely self learned :TU: haha but i'm learning as I go and I really appreciate the help Pat! :)
 
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