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Discussion Starter #1
The clutch will sometimes start to engage right off the floor and then not fully disengage until the normal point (near the top). It doesn't happen all the time either. Seems to be more noticeable in traffic situation.

So this is for my Toyota Matrix, everything is new stock parts:

Exedy clutch kit
LUK flywheel
New 6spd from the dealer
New master OEM
Slave came new with the trans
New OEM hardlines and SS flex line

The problem started and I replaced the master and all the lines but the problem is still the same now, the clutch and trans only have about 30k on it and it's all highway use in about a year.
 

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If you're not using fluid it sounds like a leak past the seal in your clutch master... But you've replaced that...

Any fluid leaks around the slave? If fluid is bypassing the pressure seal in your slave, it'll leave a mess. Usually if a slave goes you don't really get much notice and then your pedal is dead.

There's not really much else to it... Did replacing the master fix the problem briefly? Or no change?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No change, i'll peel back the boot again on the slave but it looked dry last time I checked and the fluid level has not changed. The slave came new on the new trans from the dealer but I wonder if it sat for a while and dry rotted. I guess it's possible.
 

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unbolt the slave from the transmission, and crack the bleeder open, and see if it feels like it binds up anywhere when you push the arm/rod in.

Should be painless to check as long as you can tighten the bleeder before releasing the slave piston/arm

traffic stop and go might be causing it to warm up and stick more.
 

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I'm not familiar with the Matrix so these immediate thoughts may be irrelevant:

- Is the mechanism aligned properly (ie: pushrod or fork)?
- Could you have water in the fluid?
- Could a cylinder seal be leaking internally (ie: so that some of the fluid is just pushed back past its O ring)?
 

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If I remember correctly, his matrix is a 2007 (prolly wrong), and they use a slave cylinder that appears nearly identical to honda's variation.

plenty of the civics had troublesome slaves when you cheaped out on ebay. Not saying the matrix's slave is a cheap ass part, but perhaps its showing similar signs of failure.
 

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unbolt the slave from the transmission, and crack the bleeder open, and see if it feels like it binds up anywhere when you push the arm/rod in.

Should be painless to check as long as you can tighten the bleeder before releasing the slave piston/arm

traffic stop and go might be causing it to warm up and stick more.

If the slave's piston was getting stuck the pedal would get stuck wouldn't it? I don't think the piston can move independently to the pedal due to the hydraulic line pressure.
 

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anything in teh system getting stuck will cahnge how it reacts to pressure input.

Sometimes with hydraulics, it is sticky on one end (input or output) versus other.

Perhaps there is a tiny metal burr that allows movement in one direction, but catches ever so sliightly in the opposite.

Considering the slave came with the transmission, its probably the most likely, as the transmission was likely manufactured a few years ago at least, and its not like an employee squirted any sort of oil down there for shipping/storage
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
This is an 07 Matrix (pretty much a Corolla wagon 1zzfe with c60 6spd)

I may just try to replace the slave, like Matt said, that trans could have sat for years with no lube in that slave. They have discontinued the trans now so I may have got one of the last ones. I'll just order a new one and see if it helps.

If that doesn't do it could it be a input shaft that is too dry and the disc sticks? Bent clutch fingers?

I'll got some time this weekend so I will do like Matt says and push the slave rod in with the bleeder open and see how it feels.

For you Sailor
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Have another question about this one.

They offer 2 slaves for this car, the 5spd and 6spd are different and the only thing I can find is that the bore size is the only difference.

5spd 7/8ths inch
6spd 13/16ths inch

Any reason to know why they bore size would be bigger on the 5spd, I am thinking I should go back to the 5spd slave and see if it changes anything. The old one was still good.

Haven't messed with it because I have been driving my trucks around getting parts for other shit. I got this weekend and week to mess with it.
 

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Have another question about this one.

They offer 2 slaves for this car, the 5spd and 6spd are different and the only thing I can find is that the bore size is the only difference.

5spd 7/8ths inch
6spd 13/16ths inch

Any reason to know why they bore size would be bigger on the 5spd, I am thinking I should go back to the 5spd slave and see if it changes anything. The old one was still good.

Haven't messed with it because I have been driving my trucks around getting parts for other shit. I got this weekend and week to mess with it.
A couple of reasons that come to mind:

The throw requirement (distance travelled) could be shorter, so they use a wider piston which moves less with the same pedal travel at the master.

Or a combination of that, and the fact that the force required to release the clutch is different, so the slave bore changes size so the pedal feel doesn't change.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So to revisit this.

I have now changed the slave and re bleed the entire system a few times. I still have the exact same issue, the clutch will just sometimes grab near the floor when it always grabs up closer to the top/middle of pedal travel. I am starting to think it has something to do with the clutch itself than anything hydraulic wise.

Also I have a Pontiac Vibe (same car) with a factory 6spd and no problems like this are happening. Rebuilt my friends matrix and put a 6spd in it and no problems like this are happening.

I should have posted this a few months ago but I wanted to try bleeding the system again and also try bleeding it using the 2 person method.
 
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