The clutch disc is likely on backwards, and the shift arm is likely bent, if you bump the shift rod before installing the interlock guide bolt it can come out of alignment and the bolt can catch an edge, just a tiny bit is all it takes.
Clutch doesn't disengage after transmission job
So it's gotten to the point where I can't really think of an answer for my issue and I need some help. I recently had to do the input shaft bearing in my 91 Civic with a d15b2 and an Si cable transmission (1991). I went through and replaced the bearing and all of the seals around the transmission, and then reassembled it. I got it into all gears on the table before reinstalling it, though 3rd and 4th took a little bit of effort. I made sure to seat the bearing snap ring in the top of the case and I installed the interlock guide bolt with the trans in neutral. While it was out I replaced the throwout bearing, clutch, and pressure plate with an exedy kit, and put on an ACT streetlite flywheel. After I reinstalled the transmission it will not go into 3rd and 4th while sitting still with the car off (it could do this before), and even with a brand new oem clutch cable the clutch doesn't seem to disengage even after adjusting it within spec. If I try to put it into reverse it will stall the car with the pedal all the way in. At this point I'm stuck taking the trans back out but I'm still not even sure what is causing this. Looking for answers so I can drive my car again.
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The clutch disc was installed the right way around, it had a side marked saying "transmission side" which was set facing the transmission and I even compared it to the old clutch which had a "flywheel side" marking. With the interlock guide bolt I checked the clearance in the hole before threading it in and there was 0 resistance the whole way in.The clutch disc is likely on backwards, and the shift arm is likely bent, if you bump the shift rod before installing the interlock guide bolt it can come out of alignment and the bolt can catch an edge, just a tiny bit is all it takes.
Did the interlock bolt have a sealing washer on it when you pulled it off? I think some of them came with bent shift arms, and the washer was put on there to remedy the issue. ive pulled several apart that had that stupid sealing washer on there only to find the shift arm bent, with no evidence of the cases ever having been opened before. Also depending on the pressure plate and the clutch cable I've seen them stretch a fair amount before the clutch would disengage.
I honestly can't remember if there was a washer but if there was it 100 percent would have been reinstalled with it. The clutch cable is brand new oem and the pressure plate is a brand new exexy oem replacement along with the clutch and throwout bearingDid the interlock bolt have a sealing washer on it when you pulled it off? I think some of them came with bent shift arms, and the washer was put on there to remedy the issue. ive pulled several apart that had that stupid sealing washer on there only to find the shift arm bent, with no evidence of the cases ever having been opened before. Also depending on the pressure plate and the clutch cable I've seen them stretch a fair amount before the clutch would disengage.
Have you tried adjusting the clutch cable? Maybe its not pulling the throwout bearing arm enough to fully disengage the new clutch?
yes i have, brand new clutch cable since my old one was shot, can get it within adjustment but it still wont disengageHave you tried adjusting the clutch cable? Maybe its not pulling the throwout bearing arm enough to fully disengage the new clutch?
no IGB had a washer....Did the interlock bolt have a sealing washer on it when you pulled it off? I think some of them came with bent shift arms, and the washer was put on there to remedy the issue. ive pulled several apart that had that stupid sealing washer on there only to find the shift arm bent, with no evidence of the cases ever having been opened before. Also depending on the pressure plate and the clutch cable I've seen them stretch a fair amount before the clutch would disengage.
so an update, trans is back off and after taking the pressure plate and clutch off there is scoring on the arp flywheel bolts i installed, the kit i bought for the bolts was part # 208-2801, is there any history of these causing rubbing issues with a lightweight flywheel?
a reminder that the setup that was installed was an act streetlite for d series with the exedy oem pressure plate and clutch
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ended up taking one out and compared to the old oem, they seem to be mostly the same aside from the oem bolt having a longer shouldered section, would this matter?
a reminder that the setup that was installed was an act streetlite for d series with the exedy oem pressure plate and clutch
ended up taking one out and compared to the old oem, they seem to be mostly the same aside from the oem bolt having a longer shouldered section, would this matter?
The is no need for the ARP bolts. Just red loctite with an alum. flywheel.
At one time ARP was using B series length crank bolts whih would rub on the rear main seal holder enough that the starter couldn't spin the motor over.
The stock bolts are good for over 425 crank horsepower.
People throwing $$$ at D parts that would have been better spent elsewhere.
Also with some setups the clutch system can over travel causing the PP fingers to grab the flywheel bolts. THat is when a clutch pedal limiter comes into play. When the over travel happens, try not using all of the pedal stroke to get the clutch to disengage.
At one time ARP was using B series length crank bolts whih would rub on the rear main seal holder enough that the starter couldn't spin the motor over.
The stock bolts are good for over 425 crank horsepower.
People throwing $$$ at D parts that would have been better spent elsewhere.
Also with some setups the clutch system can over travel causing the PP fingers to grab the flywheel bolts. THat is when a clutch pedal limiter comes into play. When the over travel happens, try not using all of the pedal stroke to get the clutch to disengage.
i just replaced em since some of the old ones were gashed up and it wasn't much more expensive over ordering stock bolts onlineThe is no need for the ARP bolts. Just red loctite with an alum. flywheel.
At one time ARP was using B series length crank bolts whih would rub on the rear main seal holder enough that the starter couldn't spin the motor over.
The stock bolts are good for over 425 crank horsepower.
People throwing $$$ at D parts that would have been better spent elsewhere.
Also with some setups the clutch system can over travel causing the PP fingers to grab the flywheel bolts. THat is when a clutch pedal limiter comes into play. When the over travel happens, try not using all of the pedal stroke to get the clutch to disengage.
That is what bites everyone in the ass, import or domestic. Why where the OEM's gashed up in the first place?
wasnt holding the impact that well and it skipped on the first two i tried removing and it damaged a few of the points on the bolt
we've already been messing with it again anyway and this whole thing was probably me actually putting the clutch on the wrong way and having a big forget moment thinking i had it the right way once it had been installed, i also cracked the trans open again and it shifts fine in all gears so this has all probably stemmed from me making a mistake my first time
we've already been messing with it again anyway and this whole thing was probably me actually putting the clutch on the wrong way and having a big forget moment thinking i had it the right way once it had been installed, i also cracked the trans open again and it shifts fine in all gears so this has all probably stemmed from me making a mistake my first time
Sometimes the best way to learn is to screw it up that first time, lol. Honda trans don't have a lot of clearance in there and even just the clutch wearing down to the rivets will cause the hub to contact the bolts and lock the crank to the input shaft. Or some knucklehead has a flywheel turned, not knowing that even .02" taken off causes contact, like one shop owner I worked for.
Getting the transmission onto the engine finally (dowels were being a PITA) and then trip over the clutch arm and throwout bearing.....FUCKKKKK!!!!!!!
so the trans is cracked open again and i messed with it a bit trying to find anything wrong, i even got it to shift into 3rd and 4th while it was on its side with the interlock guide bolt in and its all fine, nothings misaligned or odd looking, but when i fully assemble it back together snap ring and all it will no longer go into 3rd and 4th using a screwdriver on the shift rod, it will go into all other gears just fine though
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