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Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
Those systems were cool, literally! I remember working on an older Merc not knowing what a component was until I leaned against something cold in the engine bay. It was immediately clear it was a fuel cooler, cooled by the A/C evaporator suction line, in between the evaporator heading to the compressor. This way it didn't really affect climate control in the interior of the car, but it used the left over still cool refrigerant to absorb some heat from the fuel!

I can't imaging that method of fuel cooling was any good for fuel mileage, mind you it was probably really good for controlling evaporative emissions!
thanks dude

i have nothing to lose x)
well maybe an engine ... but why not

well am not very happy with they way it look , but its a good start
as for the cooler i tried alot of units but nothing fits well
am not also very happy with it
so am planning that after finishing everything and after testing the car for a few weeks , i remove the intake and get it to one of those radiator fabrication shops for a proper redo with some custom made cooler

yeah it always fun exploring old German cars there is always something interesting
 

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Discussion Starter #42
quick nooby question , since my engine bay is a mess can i get away with "canceling " a few vacuum hoses

i have one from the valve cover , one from the black box on the block ,and the charcoal canister
 

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The valve cover and black box ports are important. You can leave them vented to the atmosphere but they should have a filter on them. This is why people normally run these to a vented catch can for a FI setup.

The charcoal canister can be deleted completely. I just left the hose that comes from the fuel tank pointing downwards in the engine bay. Should probably have a filter on it to prevent stuff from getting in there.

Don’t cap the line on the firewall...it needs to vent the fuel tank pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #45 (Edited)
thank you , i just wanted to make sure , this thing driving me crazy ,if only honda left an inch or two of clearance from crank pulley side , well tested the car today without driving with the 2 extra belts and 3 extra tensioners there is no slipping

working on SC makes you a belt expert i can know know the size just by looking at it thanks to trying 20 different belt

yeah and those green coupling are machined Teflon or something

and for the cooler ... a friend of mine who sell ac stuff took the measurements and told me that ford explorer rear evaporator fits with very little mod.
 

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my latest update


LMAO that thing is nuts! Super cool haha! Hopefully you build an angled bracket or something from the bottom of the intake to the block to support the weight of that monstrosity!

+1 on what paterico said regarding the intake manifold hoses. Make sure you maintain your in-line check valve going to your brake booster!!

Related to your twincharge goal, from the way it looks with the SC as part of the manifold, you are going to be boosting air from the turbocharger into the inlet of the supercharger? Or are you going to engineer a clever way of switching the two?

You need to just let it rip on the SC for a while so you can get us some videos of that beast running! I can't wait to hear that thing run haha.
 

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I see in some of the pictures you are using the timing side mount bracket to support pulley shafts.


Make sure you account for the engine mount ear that bolts there. dropping the motor a quarter inch can impact your ability to change belts if not careful.

Perhaps it is jsut my big hands, but good god, the EK D setups dont like belt services lol
 

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Discussion Starter #49
LMAO that thing is nuts! Super cool haha! Hopefully you build an angled bracket or something from the bottom of the intake to the block to support the weight of that monstrosity!

+1 on what paterico said regarding the intake manifold hoses. Make sure you maintain your in-line check valve going to your brake booster!!

Related to your twincharge goal, from the way it looks with the SC as part of the manifold, you are going to be boosting air from the turbocharger into the inlet of the supercharger? Or are you going to engineer a clever way of switching the two?

You need to just let it rip on the SC for a while so you can get us some videos of that beast running! I can't wait to hear that thing run haha.

haha yeah very its ugly in a beautiful way, there is no support for the thing but a few ppl here said i dont need to , well am guessing from lifting it that it weights around 25 something lb

what brake booster check valve?

as for the twin charge its still in my mind but i really need a brake, i will drive the car for a couple of months enjoy it and see how it goes

also i think a twin charge stock d16 is not the smartest thing to do

so as usual i will hunt for anther d16 , and pistons ,etc etc rebuild and after swap the existing one

actually i can use some advice on the new engine , some people advice for low CR some high

as for the controlling i already solved that sorta
actually the nissan valve body which am using is a "bosch valve body"
more popular choice than i thought for custom work
well long story short its a dc servo motor with 2 wire so + 1st wire -2nd wire it opens and -1st wire +2nd wire it closes

for now am using a dpdt switch to bypass the SC


but it can be controlled very precisely

i might use the evc3 to control the "bypass throttle " since its basically a servo motor controller, but its to soon to talk about

i never done or seen a twin charged setup so i cant decide really

again some people say that with a SC the turbo just see a bigger engine others say that sc should be bypassed once the turbo kicks in
 

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Discussion Starter #50 (Edited)
give me a few minutes ..





:)


making me want to go out and molest unsuspecting car parts...
what your waiting for go buy your self a civic :3dbiggrin:

you have one go buy anther one for those late lonely nights

drive it , play with it like its stolen

btw i like ur avatar
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I see in some of the pictures you are using the timing side mount bracket to support pulley shafts.


Make sure you account for the engine mount ear that bolts there. dropping the motor a quarter inch can impact your ability to change belts if not careful.

Perhaps it is jsut my big hands, but good god, the EK D setups dont like belt services lol
thanks dude , i also have big hands

but its an old picture , very old :3some:the car now have 3 tensioners in that area :wacko: so changing any of the original will require lifting the car and i dont know maybe spending a day ,,,,what to do a price i have to pay
 

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haha yeah very its ugly in a beautiful way, there is no support for the thing but a few ppl here said i dont need to , well am guessing from lifting it that it weights around 25 something lb

what brake booster check valve?
It's a one way valve that sits inline with the vacuum assistance hose to your brake booster. It'll ensure only vacuum is developing in the booster.

as for the controlling i already solved that sorta
actually the nissan valve body which am using is a "bosch valve body"
more popular choice than i thought for custom work
well long story short its a dc servo motor with 2 wire so + 1st wire -2nd wire it opens and -1st wire +2nd wire it closes

for now am using a dpdt switch to bypass the SC


but it can be controlled very precisely
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UR4m4puXj3I

i might use the evc3 to control the "bypass throttle " since its basically a servo motor controller, but its to soon to talk about

i never done or seen a twin charged setup so i cant decide really

again some people say that with a SC the turbo just see a bigger engine others say that sc should be bypassed once the turbo kicks in
I have almost the exact same setup on my exhaust, a DPDT switch that bypasses exhaust through a muffler for reduced NVH, or straight out for more power.







I'm not sure this would be the best method in your situation, because you don't need the precise control IMO. With air pressure, as soon as the throttle plate cracks open a smidge you will loose all boost pressure. It wont be a linear loss of boost between closed and open states. IMO you just need an ON/OFF switch to either fully open or fully close the throttle plate.

Hondata have AUX output controls that you can configure to control this kind of switching based off of various engine inputs (rpm/speed/TPS/Psi etc).
 

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Discussion Starter #53 (Edited)
thanks EFB055 for coming by

as i said am not sc expert more of learn as you go , so thanks for the advice

hondata is a no go for me as i have to rewire the whole car

as i said earlier the car came with a weird 2 plug ecu , so piggybacks or full racing ecu

btw nice exhaust system
It's a one way valve that sits inline with the vacuum assistance hose to your brake booster. It'll ensure only vacuum is developing in the booster.
i dont have one , maybe someone removed it...




if anyone can contact scotty kilmer tell him humanity greatest invention is 96 civic not a 94 cellica x)
 

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Discussion Starter #54
just finished wiring everything ,hopefully will get the car starting by today .
any idea on a good set of injectors that will work with the stock ecu for now
i have a fpr and a bigger fuel pump
 

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It is a start.

Refining can come later once you prove its worthiness with some burnouts AFTER tuning it.

Rock on!
 
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