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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone! Ok so I've been researching and looking for help all over, but so far no one has been able to help me with this issue.

I recently aquired a 96 civic which I got super cheap, we turned it on and turns out the engine has a knocking. At first I thought the engine had bad bearings and that the rods were the ones causing the knockings, but the guy told me that the engine is in good shape, and told me the issue is in the head. We were talking and he told me he bought the engine and cylinder head from different locations and yet again tells me the issue is in the head since the car has little power aswell.

Started to take the engine apart drained the oil ready to find metal shavings.. nothing, checked the rods, solid, checked 2 rod bearings and there in almost new condition, removed the head and looks good no sign of valve contact.

Finally removed the engine and had a chance to inspect the engine a little better, and the engine actually looks new, inside and out, but just to make sure I'll be checking all the bearings later tonight. After removing the engine I ended up inspecting the cylinder head.. and we'll it looks good aswell.. no signs of bent or damaged valves, valve springs, etc. The ONLY thing I noticed all the bolts holding down the rocker arms/push rods etc were loose, other than that the head looks good aswell.

So the question is, if the engine is good shape, how can I determine if the head is the one causing the knocking? The knocking isn't very loud but it's there.

Help will be highly apreciated!
 

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98 Civic HX D16Y5
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Do you have pictures of the head and loose valvetrain?

That bearing looks good and the engine is clean but not new.

Lack of power definitely would be caused by the valvetrain being loose and that would also explain the knock.
What exactly was loose? The rocker arms should have some play when they aren't engaging a valve. Check your valve lash. And double check it. This is most likely where the knock is if the valvetrain is indeed loose.

How long will you have the engine out of the car? Have you checked the main bearings? You'll have to remove the entire girdle to check main bearings.
 

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Yea, loose valve adjusters can sound horrible and cause the engine to run like crap. I once missed a downshift and hit second at freeway speeds in a b18a1, I calculated I hit somewhere near 12k RPMs. It sounded like I had tossed a few cups of gravel in the valve cover and it ran like garbage as I limped it the couple miles home sure the engine was done.

Next day went out and pulled the valve cover and all the valve adjusters were crazy, several had twisted sideways, they should have .007-.008 clearence and I could slide my whole pinky between all of them, one of them had lost the locking nut down the oil return galley. I put them all back, did a valve adjustment to set them all to spec and the engine was 100% fine, I drove it hard for at least a year after that before I replaced it with a vtec engine, it still ran great when it came out.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Unfortunately I don't have pictures of the valvetrain, tomorrow I'll take high Def images.

Finally had a chance to check the engine a bit more, removed the crankshaft plate under the engine, and almost instantly a bearing fell picked it up and OMG it would seem the guy ran out of bearings and ended up using one that's fu*ked up, the rest, and all rod bearings are ok. Also the bad bearing that fell seems to be smaller than the rest?

Also I've noticed that without the crankshaft plate the crankshaft has free play, meaning I'm able to move the flyweel up and down a little, the front main pulley is worse, is this normal? (The freeplay goes away when the crankshaft plate is placed back on)

It's been a wile since I've worked on an engine so I might be a bit of a noob, I apreciate the help!
 

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Finally had a chance to check the engine a bit more, removed the crankshaft plate under the engine, and almost instantly a bearing fell picked it up and OMG it would seem the guy ran out of bearings and ended up using one that's fu*ked up, the rest, and all rod bearings are ok. Also the bad bearing that fell seems to be smaller than the rest?
Sounds like you found the knock. It might be that the oil passage for that bearing is plugged with sludge or something and that bearing is not getting oil. Pictures of the wear on the beating will help us determine the cause of the failure. How much smaller? Width? Thickness?


Also I've noticed that without the crankshaft plate the crankshaft has free play, meaning I'm able to move the flyweel up and down a little, the front main pulley is worse, is this normal? (The freeplay goes away when the crankshaft plate is placed back on)
The "crankshaft plate" is what holds the crankshaft in place and therefore with out it the crankshaft should have play?
If we're referring to two different things then I'm wrong. This is what I'm referring to:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, I decided to remove the other bearing were the bad one fell off, and yup same size (smaller) and in bad shape as well.

Would a main bearing cause the knocking?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sorry for double post.. for some reason I can't upload images..

If it worked, the first image compares both bad bearings with another main bearing which are noticeable smaller

Second image are the damaged bearings

Last image is were the bearings go
 

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Would a main bearing cause the knocking?
To my understanding, "knock" is when a flange bearing such as the main and/or rod bearings in your engine spin in between the crankshaft and rod or the main bearing spins. By spin I mean the little locating ear doesn't locate the bearing and they spin instead of staying put.

Not ignition knock(detonation), Different animal.
 

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First image: definitely smaller/wrong bearings...

Second image: be glad you caught it when you did. Crankshaft and girdle are still usable. Probably should get the crankshaft machined.

Third image: that is the girdle. Yes those are the main bearings.
 

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Someone rebuilt the engine in the past? Had to of from the looks of those bearing sizes. And with the wrong bearings.


Now it's your turn to rebuild it. With the right bearings haha I'm sorry you found this but again you caught it early enough it seems.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Someone rebuilt the engine in the past? Had to of from the looks of those bearing sizes. And with the wrong bearings.


Now it's your turn to rebuild it. With the right bearings haha I'm sorry you found this but again you caught it early enough it seems.
Yeah, the original engine the car had was a D16Y8 I beleive which totally died, the guy replaced it with this one, he told me he "bought" the block and head separately so I'm guessing it was rebuilt by the guy he bought it from.

Are the bearing kit from eBay good? Or should I just stick with what Autozone/Pepboys offer?

Tomorrow will be another day will take the block fully apart and will inspect piece by piece
 

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The Civic EX had the Y8.
Is yours an EX?

The block is a D16Y7 but the head may be the proper Y8 head. However it could very well be a Y7 head which is NOT VTEC. Lower performance.

I would suggest OEM(dealership) then NAPA(OEM replacement), lastly RockAuto.com all would be quality bearings. It depends on the brand you buy on eBay. Provide a link to the ones you were looking at.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah its the EX, how can I tell if it's the Y8 head?

Will it be an issue if the head is the Y8 wile the block is the Y7?
 

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Y8 head:


That cylindrical object (closest in the picture) is the VTEC solenoid. Y7 does NOT have this. It's on the intake side.


Y7 block Y8 head is no problem.
 

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Y8 head:


That cylindrical object (closest in the picture) is the VTEC solenoid. Y7 does NOT have this. It's on the intake side.


Y7 block Y8 head is no problem.
Why is this Y8 head missing the VTEC rocker, LMA springs and running red intake springs?

That is a VTEC-E head at best, or a fake VTEC head at worst.
 

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You are correct. The image is from the Y7 valvetrain into Y8 head thread. I was tired and not paying attention. Good catch.
 
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