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680 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
This is mainly a compilation of others info all joined into one to make it easy to find and as a complete walk through
All props to the people who actually figured this out. Look at bottom to see all the reference pages and learn more about it.
Chipping obd1 info
First thing is the basics of how your engine works.
The main sensors are your maps sensor which determines the density of the intake charge.

Ie. If you have a high vacuum in the intake manifold there is less molecules of air per cc of volume therefore you can only burn so much fuel.
The other main sensor you have is your rpm. The computer reads this and knows how much volume of air is being moved though the engine.

Ie if you have 1500 cc of displacement and it is rotating a certain rpm you can calculate the volume of air that the cylinders will push.
With these two things the ecu knows how many molecules of air are going through the engine at any moment, from this it knows how much fuel to inject to make the engine run right.

Why do you want a chipped ecu?
To have ultimate and complete control over your engine something that could never be done before with carburetors.
The factory tunes always have room to make them better, in some cases Honda just changed the ecu programming a little bit and got a couple more hp out the engine so why don’t you?
With performance parts you have to have some way of making the motor inject more fuel as it is getting more air. Lets say if you have a d15b7 and you change the cam to a d16a6 or sohc zc cam and the intake manifold to a d16z6 or d16y8 the engine will actually flow more air at any point. Now the thing is the computer doesn't actually know that it is flowing more air (for the most part) so it injects the same amount of fuel, this will make the engine run slightly lean and a fair bit of power can be gained by tuning the engine to inject more fuel and make more power.
Now you can also change at what time the spark plug ignites the air/fuel charge inside the combustion chamber and this can make a huge difference on engine performance but also to engine life if you do it wrong.
If you have any kind of forced induction you will need a tune no matter what. This is because the ecu doesn't have an values for positive pressures. When it does see positive pressure it doesn't know what to do and basically shuts down.

-Obd1 ecu
-Chipping kit
-Soldering iron
-Some soldering skills
-Circuit board soldering wire

To datalog and actually make something out of this
-A wideband (this write up will show you how to use the LC-1 from innovative)
-A det can home made (preferably so you can safely change ignition timing)
-A data logging cable
-A laptop with the nessiary software
-A chip burner (burn 2)
-A good soldering iron, I did mine with my dad’s really old one that was probably way to hot
-Desoldering station, solder sucker or a lot of really finely wound amp power wire and time
-A multimeter that will measure continuity

Depends how you do it and how your skills are but I did mine in roughly 4 hours. And that was soldering on a circuit board for the 2nd time and 1st time in 3 years.
If you haven’t had much soldering experience before, practice first it is possible to screw up your ecu, you don’t want that!

I take no reliability or blame for anything that goes wrong in you attempting this

680 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
If you haven’t had much soldering experience before, practice first it is possible to screw up your ecu, you don’t want that!
I take no reliability or blame for anything that goes wrong in you attempting this

First things first you need to know where your computer is and how to get at it. In all obd 1 cars it will be in the passenger foot compartment underneath the carpet. Anther usefull thing to have access to is the service pin connector, by jumping this the ecu will read out the problem codes by making the check engine light blink.

Your ecu will look like this

It will also have a kick guard on it to protect the wires and plugs. You can undo all the bolts holding it in and take it out!
Put it on a nice large comfortable working area (you’ll probably spend the next couple hours there!)
Open it up and you should see the circuit board like this

Now for the actual socketing and chipping part


680 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
First, you must de-solder the parts silkscreened in white on the circuit board. Once all the pads are desoldered and you can see through holes for components in the red section above, you need to start soldering in components. You will be soldering two chips in total. one smaller one that goes on the left and one big one that goes on the right
All of the soldering will be done on opposite side of the components!
Now you might be looking at your chipping kit and wonder to yourself why are there so many different things?
You have a small chip
Big chip
Zif (zero insertion force) socket for the big chip, (it’s the one with the little lever)
And a normal socket for the big chip

Solder in the normal socket into the circuit board. Then you will plug the ZIF socket into that then the chip onto that.
Then you can solder in the smaller chip directly to the board or you can get a socket like with the big chip. It isn’t necessary but it if you get one in the kit you buy then you might as well put it in
One thing you have to look out for is to make the notches in the chip match the painted part on the ecu.
Next you can identify the places the resistors and capacitors will be wired into. And solder them in
R54 will be the little resistor
C51 and C52 are 0.1µf ceramic disc capacitors
J1 needs to be connected with just a straight up wire or the jumper conection

This will make the ecu read off the chip that you just installed
The other thing you need to do is solder in the datalogging header.
If you have your cord from xenocron you to insure the wire go into the right places plug the cable into the header without doing any soldering and see which pin will connect to the black ground wire in the datalogging cable. Make sure that that pin will connect with the firsts pin labelled 1 and the other pins go to 2, 3 and 4 you will not use the 5th connector.
To make the datalogging work you need to disconnect J12 it is a little jumper wire and you can just cut this and make sure that there isn’t any continuity between the two
To finish up insure that you have everything installed right and all the soldering joints are very nice and perfect looking and you can check continuity between the bottom circuit that you soldered on and the connection on top.

This is what you will end up with.

Note this ecu doesn’t have the datalogging header installed

your ecu is now chipped!

now to put the map on in and get set up for tuning!

680 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
From Greenex DIY
Now for the datalogging and how everything will work together.
By request, here is my little write up I have on datalogging with the Innovate LC-1 wideband, Crome, and FreeLog. I'll add pictures and updates when they come

Ok, this is a How-To to get people started with using a wideband (Innovate LC-1) and programs like Crome, Uberdata, Freelog, etc. Its kinda intimidating to just go "research" this stuff without knowing anything, plus most of it will be over your head anyways (if you’re a noob). So here goes.

This is assuming you have an OBD1 ecu, Innovate LC-1 WB, and some time to read and understand. This could easily be applied to other widebands as well. This is also assuming you have a chipped ecu and some method of datalogging through the ecu (serial cable, USB cable, etc). I have also removed J12 from the ecu so I can datalog with Crome.

The Wideband
The lc-1 is a very simple and great wideband controller for datalogging through the ecu. First off, it has 7 stripped wires and 2 wires that look to have headphone jacks. Here is the info on the wires from the LC-1 manual:
Red 12V supply
Blue Heater ground
White System ground
Yellow Analog out 1 (narrowband by default)
Brown Analog out 2 (wideband by default)
Green Analog ground
Black Calibration wire
Serial IN connection, 2.5mm stereo (female) marked as IN
Serial Out connection, 2.5mm stereo (female) marked as OUT

If you have one that has 6 stripped wires, the layout is this:
Red 12V supply
Blue Heater ground
Metallic System ground
Yellow Analog out 1 (narrowband by default)
Brown Analog out 2 (wideband by default)
Black Calibration wire

Now, here is how mine is wired up. I used "tap-in" clips to just tap into some wires, and "quick-disconnect" plugs for other wires. You could obviously wire it up differently, such as pulling power from the radio instead (which I couldn’t figure out since I only had a limited time to work on this). Let me know how you wired it up, or a better way.

Red wire goes to pin A25, ignition power 1
Blue wire goes to anything metal on the chassis
White wire goes to A23, power ground 1
Yellow wire gets a quick-disconnect plug, plugs into D14
Brown wire gets a quick-disconnect plug, plugs into D14
Green wire goes to A23, power ground 1
Black wire goes to the LED and push button, then to chassis ground

I have the black wire going to the LED and push button (they are in parallel). Then I’ve combined the ends of those wires with the blue wire, and sent that to a metal part of the chassis.

Now its time for the WB’s first time start up. Refer to the LC-1 PDF for this information. Its pretty self explanatory.

By now, you should have all your wiring and everything figured out. Plug the yellow wire (narrow band) into pin D14. Make sure your Crome/Uberdata map is in closed loop and the oxygen sensor heater has been disabled. Start the car and see how it does. Should run like normal. If you have a CEL, check it and fix it. You shouldn’t though because the way I did everything resulted in no CELs. If everything works right, great, move on. If not, go back.

The Cable
I used a Nokia data cable. Almost any cell phone cable can be used, just has to have the right stuff in it. Find the driver for whatever cell phone cable you’re using, and load it on your computer. After you do that, you’ll need to set the settings for the computer to use the datalogging cable. This is how you do it on Windows XP
Control Panel > Performance And Maintanence > System
Click on Hardware tab, then click Device Manager
Double click on Ports(COM & LPT), then click the proper cable (mine showed up as Prolific USB-Serial Port (COM2)). Click Port Settings, Advanced, then set the COM port number to something low like 1 through 4. Then set the following:
Comm Port: COM2
Bits per second: 38400
Data bits: 8
Parity: None
Stop bits: 1
Flow control: none

Now its time to hook the data cable up to the ecu. You will hook 3 wires to the ecu. There are many ways to do this, but just make sure the following wires get to the proper location.
(wire) -> (ecu location)
Ground -> CN#1
RX -> CN#2
TX -> CN #4

Note: The ground wire must be soldered to the cable shielding, if it has the shielding.

This should be just about it. Time to move on.

The Datalogger
For datalogging, I used FreeLog. It’s a very simple program, very easy to use, and does just about everything you’ll need. Go here to download it and find more info about it: • View forum - FreeLog
Also, read the “manual” on it. That will help you understand it more.

Once you’ve downloaded the program and installed it, fire it up. Click on Tools, then Settings. Click on the Communications tab. Adjust the following settings:
Comm Port: COM2
Baud Rate: 38400
Timeout: 500
Data bits: 8
Retry Count: 10
Parity: N
Stop bits: 1
Those are the settings I used. You might need to change the COM port depending on what the cable you’re using is set to under Window’s Device Manager.

Click Formula Selection. The only thing I changed was O2 to WB Cnv. That selects the wideband format. Next, click on the Wideband tab. Click Add Data at the bottom of the window. Enter in a voltage and the corresponding AFR, then click the appropriate boxes. By default, the LC-1’s preprogrammed wideband output is 0-5v. Here is the conversion I used:
Volts AFR
0.00 7.35
0.25 8.10
0.50 8.85
0.75 9.61
1.00 10.36
1.25 11.11
1.50 11.86
1.75 12.61
2.00 13.37
2.25 14.12
2.50 14.87
2.75 15.62
3.00 16.37
3.25 17.13
3.50 17.89
3.75 18.63
4.00 19.38
4.25 20.13
4.50 20.89
4.75 21.64
5.00 22.39
There is one-too-many, so just skip one value, but make sure to keep the 0 and 5 volt values. I skipped 4.75volts.

Next click the Data Commands tab. Under Datalogger Code Base, choose CUI’s D/L v1.2 or whatever is closest. Finally, change the RPM/MAP scalars, Gear Ratios, and Gauge Data to whatever you want.

680 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Next, connect the ecu to your laptop with whatever cable you are using (I used a Nokia USB cable, very easy to use). Plug in the WB’s brown wire (wideband output) into pin D14 on the ecu. Insert an open loop chip in the ecu. You might need to add quick datalogging and remove the checksum (in Crome, not sure about Uberdata). Start the car.

Let your car warm up a little bit (so the O2 sensor reaches operating temperature. If you have the calibration wire and LED hooked up, the LED should be on solid when its ready) then on the Live Data tab in Freelog, click Start. You should see values changing and going crazy, but they should look normal. Click on the Data Capture tab. There you can see all the AFR’s for each vacuum/pressure and rpm value, and you can also select by cam, gear, etc. You can also Click on Gauges at the top, and view gauges.

You can also save data graphs and stuff, but I haven’t worried about that yet. When its time to change your maps, click Stop and don’t close FreeLog. Just open up Crome/Uber and make the changes you want to.

I give credit to,, and Innovate for most of this information.

Post up any problems or what not and I’ll edit the write up.

680 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
From danz DIY

imho this is the best det can, because its cheap, simple, and super easy to construct. not to mention reliable (no electronics involved).

the only tricky part may be finding a mechanics stethoscope. use the PN provided to help.

ive never used the ear muff style, but my friend atticus (a member here) has tried both. the stethoscope ear buds work WAY better. and i can vouch they work exceptionally well.

taken from my build thread:

well, ive been tuning the car a little here and there, and ive made some changes from the dyno tune i had done in july. mostly for the track running some "race gas"..

but this is something every boosted honda owner should have...

even if you get a dyno tune, you might still experience detonation. so its always good to take a listen and see if there is anything going on. especially with obd0 and limited tuning options.

parts needed:
3/8 barbed fitting
mechanics stethoscope (included with the stethoscope is the grey Y tube and the ear fittings...) PN: Lisle's 52500
9 feet of 3/8ths hose (i used fuel line hose, 6ft might get it done)
8-12inches of copper tube
hose clamp

tools needed
hack saw
screw driver
wrench to bolt copper tube to block
blade to cut hose
drill to make mount hole in copper tube

what you end up with pic

first you need a mechanics stethoscope.
princess auto special. (try HF if you are American)

package pic

take your copper pipe and hammer about 3 inches of one end flat. fold that new flat section in half with your hammer and vice and hammer it flat once more. now you should have 4 layers of copper, which will be nice and sturdy and transmit vibrations well

drill a hole in the middle of the flattened part of your copper tube so you can bolt it to the block. drill the hole with an 8mm or slightly larger drill bit if u plan to mount in the same place as me...

put the pipe back in the vice, this time with the round end up. cut a slit into the tube so you can spread the tube a little to slide the 3/8ths line inside. give it a decently deep cut. if you don't go deep enough, the tube will kink when you try to pry it open a bit.

slide hose clamp over copper, wiggle the 3/8ths line into the copper pipe, and clamp it down with the hose clamp. it should hold very well.

now you should have something that looks like this

i chose to run the line into the cabin through my access hatch. lol. im not sure if EG/EK's have this or not. EF's do! otherwise, run it out of your engine bay through your window.

edit; those connectors are just to make the wide band removable! all connections soldered!!!

now take your hose, jam in the barbed fitting, and stretch the grey tube over the barbed fitting. it should be easy. add some lube if needed.

try to bolt the copper tube as close to the top of the block as you can. where i have mine bolted is the most common place.

This works really well. Ive never tried the det can setup with the construction ear muffs but there is virtually no way that setup could work better than this. my only beef is when the rad fan comes on, it gets a bit noisy.
i would say its well worth having 1 connection to T off the hose to each ear. its very clear with both buds hooked up and all outside noise cancelled out. having the buds in your ear also makes a direct path for the sound waves. there is no where for the waves to go other that right to your ear drums making for a very concise tool.

680 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Cliff Notes:
Im able to run at the track with this. only because it goes through the firewall. no open windows. keep that in mind.

the connections arnt a problem. i used 3/8ths the whole way, up to the grey T tube that came with the stethoscope (which is just a slight bit tigher)

i fold it at the tip so its beefier to mount, and to make sure the tube is closed. if the tube is open on one end the sound waves will just go out that side.

the down side of the construction muffs is the hose doesnt go directly into the ear drum, it sits a few CM away. but with these, when the buds are in your ears, they cancel out all outside noise. it makes for super clear audio.

when i swapped in my GM 3 bar i was able to detect detonation, and retarded the timing accordingly.

(its kinda funny, cars with no muffler are REAALLY loud through it when they are infront of you... heheh)

Referenced pages
PGMFI.ORG - Grassroots ECU Development - Library . IntroductionToECUChipping
Xenocron Tuning: Chipping Kit w/ SST Chip (OBD1 ECUs) USDM Kit & JDM Kit #OBD1-SST
FreeLog - Open Source Datalogger | Free software downloads at

and that should be it
any questions or correction feel free to let me know, sticky this if you think it is worthy.

680 Posts
Discussion Starter #10

680 Posts
Discussion Starter #13

1993 Del Sol
906 Posts
Great thread on setting up your ecu and components to get ready for a tune, but i dont see anything on how to tune your ecu, meaning tuning theory, where to start, setting up a base map, tiiming differences based on boost pressure, etc. title is a bit misleading. i say add some of that info, and we got a killer thread.
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