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Discussion Starter #1
I find myself in the need for a better solution to venting my valve cover. I was running an unmodified D16a6 cover and simply was venting from the .250" ID vent on the back corner of the head, aswell I had a vibrant oil cap adaptor to run another 1/2" line. The idea of the diy below was to go back to a regular oil cap because of clearance issues, aswell as open up the internal valve cover baffle to vent easier.


Started with a stock d16a6/d15b2 valve cover, seen some miles, you can see the small ID hose nipple on the back left of the cover.


This is what the rivets look like, pretty easy to spot


Drill out all the rivets with a bit just bigger than the size of the rivet, I started with 1/8" bit then a 3/8" bit and that did the trick


Pull that baffle plate off


This is were the venting of your valve cover "starts" there are 2 of these louvers at the front of the cover which feed the sealed baffle area, all the air has to pass through those small drilled holes.


And the petite stock pipe pressed into the head, to small :surrender:


This pic shows the "chambers" the gas you are trying to vent has to travel. First it exits your engine and enters the baffle through those 2 louvers through the tiny drilled holes, which feeds the top chamber in this pic, then you can see to get to the bottom chamber, the only exit is the cut in the wall, only about 3/8" wide, then from there it travels through the bottom chamber and out the tiny pipe pictured above that is on the backside.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
So lets make that air have an easier escape, Start by using a dremel to open up the baffle louver floor, basically make the drilled holes into one big hole, but still small enough that the "louver" protects the hole from any oil being thrown into it, just clear out as much as it covers, about 1/2" X 3/4", do both louvers obviously




Then I came to the dilemma of how to get air through that slit in the wall, I thought to make another slit, but the wall almost seemed structural so I opted to simply V it, probably doubling the opening space, just used a sanding disk on a grinder and it washed away the aluminum quickly. I placed a flat blue ruler on the wall in the pic to show how much more it will flow once the baffle is installed back. More then enough and I think better that cutting another slit.



Now to drill for the new fittings, this will all depend on which fittings you choose to go with which size drilled holes you will need if you decide to tap, weld, jb weld. I used 1/2" brass barb fittings I had laying around because I hate going to the store for one thing and they were exactly what I needed. I cut off the external oem "barb" and pulled out the stock pipe. Then drilled my holes were my fittings were going



inside


Might aswell clean everything up with purple power and a wire brush


Threaded the fittings in after tapping them


Inside view of the barb ends coming into the baffle chamber, good fit
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
never mixed jb weld before? Cut off qtips work great and the gf has alot of them :)


Jb weld the fittings trying not to get much if any in the holes, gravity will fight you hear, no need to go to thick, I also poured and sealed around the sidewall where my side fitting came in.


Now its time to put the baffle back on, I put a thin bead of jb weld around the entire mating surface as you can see in the pic


Put the baffle back on and put something heavy on it, spaghetti cans, bolt jar and brake fluid in my case, whatever. Then take a qtip and roll up a little jb weld and drop it in every one of the rivet holes you drilled out, qtip keeps it clean and tidy


Let it cure overnight, and your valve cover venting is done! Should look like


I went a little further and shaved down the casting marks, filled 4 threaded holes and ground down the big bulge on the back of the cover, and gave it a few coats of flake and high heat clear......

The vents be venting




Looks ridiculous in the sun, just a little "Honda Motor" officer
 

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crx
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what high heat clear did you use? I forgot what brand I used but before but it would always turn yellow, even on a part that wasn't exposed to high heat but was left in the sun. when I had my head rebuilt I wanted to keep that clean aluminum look so I used the high temp engine clear coat on it and now it looks horrible.

 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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good stuff, there's tons of DIYs for the frontplug heads but not much out there for the notecs! :TU:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
what high heat clear did you use? I forgot what brand I used but before but it would always turn yellow, even on a part that wasn't exposed to high heat but was left in the sun. when I had my head rebuilt I wanted to keep that clean aluminum look so I used the high temp engine clear coat on it and now it looks horrible.

I like the Duplicolor Engine Enamel Clear, never had an issue with yellowing. Rustoleum clear engine enamel DOES yellow under the hood of a turbo car though, avoid that stuff.
 

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Nice DIY, thanks for the share. Looks good painted up with the flake, got pics in the sun?
 

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nice diy

I personally would not have used jb weld inside the head...

I jb welded fitting on the back of mine with the jb outside, basically looks welded. for reattaching the baffle I would have tapped the holes and used bolts with a dab of jbweld to ensure they don't back out
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Nice DIY, thanks for the share. Looks good painted up with the flake, got pics in the sun?
I put vaseline on the gromet pads, oil cap seat and lettering, hadnt taken the paint or tape off those areas yet in this pic




I personally would not have used jb weld inside the head...

I jb welded fitting on the back of mine with the jb outside, basically looks welded. for reattaching the baffle I would have tapped the holes and used bolts with a dab of jbweld to ensure they don't back out
jb weld is perfect for this job, I trust it fully in this application, the baffle plate weighs 2oz's

You really think a dozen fasteners held upsidedown millimeters from my valvetrain in 1/4" deep holes barely enough to thread is a better idea...? I didnt think so. Ive personally seen a set of valvecovers on a corvette be basically jb welded together for 6-7 years now with no sign of degrading or leak. Its forever
 

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That reminds me of a pic I took of the night sky once, blues, reds, yellows, the back color is different but the look is there. I will try and find the pic later. Thanks again.
 

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crx
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I like the Duplicolor Engine Enamel Clear, never had an issue with yellowing. Rustoleum clear engine enamel DOES yellow under the hood of a turbo car though, avoid that stuff.
on mine it yellowed out before I ever went turbo. it yellowed out a few days after doing the Z6 head swap.
 

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your a master with the jb weld! I could never lay dots like that
Looks like it got pressed through the holes when he put the baffle on. Still a good job!
 

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He stated that he used a q tip to apply it to the holes. Easy enough
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ya after I carefully placed the few heavy things on the baffle (being careful not to cover any of the drilled holes so you have access to them all) I rolled up a little ball of JB on the cut off qtip and just dabbed it in every hole and made a little circle slightly bigger than the drilled hole. Hope this help some people
 

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Good to see, er hear, it is holding up well. Gotta love the JB weld.
 
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