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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, the rings on my d15b7 are going out so I just picked up a d16z6 to put in to go with my z6 transmission I put in last year. I figure while it's out would be a good time to upgrade the flywheel to something a little lighter. After a lot of searching it seems I'm looking for the vx/cx 15lb or an aftermarket 12lb. I'm trying to do this on a budget so the cheaper the better as long as it will hold up. I've been looking all over for the vx/cx one and can't find any.

Anybody know a source to buy vx flywheel or can anyone recommend a cheaper 12lb one?
 

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Why lug around all that mass? Unnecessary. The Fidanza aluminum flywheels will serve you well if you're not winding the crap out of it every time you start off. Just remember you may need to put loctite on the positioning pins, and do not use it on the main bolts.
 

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It's just a DD, no drag or auto x. I have CAI, header, full exhaust, and a short shifter, just trying to make it a little more sporty and have the revs drop a little faster between shifts. Seems like the 7-9lb range might be too light for my application from what I've read on here.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Anyone know of any 12lb flywheels cheaper than $165? I might bite the bullet on that CC one if nothing's cheaper.
 

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Maybe it's just personal preference. I haven't looked back since installing my first aluminum flywheel 12 years ago and it's mountainous terrain here. It's like riding a bike once you get use to it. Waiting a couple of days on the thing to wind up or down to shift drives me mad. The exception would be the powerstroke engine since it redlines at 3000.

Keep in mind it's not just the weight of the flywheel, but the kinetic energy it has - how much mass is on the outer edge.

Considered this?
GF Chromoly Lightweight Race Clutch Flywheel Honda Civic CRX Del Sol D15 D16 D17 | eBay
 

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I've had best result with stock flywheel on both DD and drags. I've used a lighter 8lbs flywheel and found it annoying to drive more clutch and gas work. I say stay stock
 

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For a relatively light daily with a decent final you cant go to light imo. 7lb aluminum with my 6 puc kevlar and solid hub is my daily and I love it, tiny bit twichy starting in reverse, but good everywhere else.

It all comes down to what you are used to and what you want to learn. Heavier flywheel with street tires is just throwing away performance, but they make starting easier for people who cant/wont learn left foot preciscion.
 

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Heavier flywheel with street tires is just throwing away performance, but they make starting easier for people who cant/wont learn left foot preciscion.
Not everyone drives a race car for a daily, some creature comforts are in place of performance for the daily driver car.


It's just a DD, no drag or auto x.
 

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Not everyone drives a race car for a daily, some creature comforts are in place of performance for the daily driver car.
A clutch choice is about the whole clutch setup, along with gearing and car weight. Super tall gears, tall tires, a heavy car, with a grabby disk and a lightweight flywheel would suck.

My 4.266 final in my lightweight CRX with a unsprung hub kevlar disk and my 7lb Fidanza take barely more precision than a dead stock clutch and flywheel, but they allow the engine to rev a LOT faster.

I know this for a fact because I drove my other CRX (with a stock clutch and flywheel) for the first time in almost a year a couple days ago and the performance difference is night and day, but the work to engage the clutch smoothly is nearly the exact same.

It's just a DD, no drag or auto x. I have CAI, header, full exhaust, and a short shifter, just trying to make it a little more sporty and have the revs drop a little faster between shifts. Seems like the 7-9lb range might be too light for my application from what I've read on here.
7lbs is fine for a daily, I would have no issues going lighter if they made such a thing affordably. Just keep in mind weight and gearing, a DX tranny with a 7lb flywheel in a 3000lb car would kinda blow, Si gearing with a 7lb flywheel in a 2000lb car is a rockstar.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'm loving the 12lb flywheel, the throttle response is much better and the revs drop nicely between shifts. Along with the z6 engine and tranny it feels like a whole new car. My only complaint is when going into neutral when coming to a stop the revs drop down below 500rpm and it gets shaky. I adjusted the idle screw and bumped it up around 1000 and that solved it, but it still happens with the a/c on. Anyone know how the adjust the idle for the a/c?
 

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I'm loving the 12lb flywheel, the throttle response is much better and the revs drop nicely between shifts. Along with the z6 engine and tranny it feels like a whole new car. My only complaint is when going into neutral when coming to a stop the revs drop down below 500rpm and it gets shaky. I adjusted the idle screw and bumped it up around 1000 and that solved it, but it still happens with the a/c on. Anyone know how the adjust the idle for the a/c?
bump the igniton timing, but also might need a little tuning in the ECU. Have you adjusted the FITV?

OBD-1 bring the injectors back on line will cause low rpm dip at times. With AC on IACV should catch the rpm drop sooner.....

It is generally worse with OBD-1 and 7 lb flywheel but my OBD-0 CRX is fine.
 

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7lbs is fine for a daily, I would have no issues going lighter if they made such a thing affordably. Just keep in mind weight and gearing, a DX tranny with a 7lb flywheel in a 3000lb car would kinda blow, Si gearing with a 7lb flywheel in a 2000lb car is a rockstar.
The farther spaced the gears are, the easier it is to drive a lighter flywheel due to the rpm drops on shifts. With a close ratio trans the rpms drop too much/too fast and you "rush" the shift which can put extra wear on the sliders and synchros.

With a closer ratio gear box, a heavier flywheel (still lighter than stock) will drop the rpms to the sweet spot for the next shift. For me with ZC gears, that is 10-12 lbs. This 7 lb CM is a PITA at times, but then again the trans is 25 years old and has been abused.

I found out that when the diff was installed in 2002ish only the ISB and seals were replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
bump the igniton timing, but also might need a little tuning in the ECU. Have you adjusted the FITV.
Would I need to advance or retard the timing? It's set dead on to factory spec right now. I haven't adjusted the FITV, is that just taking it apart and cleaning it?
 

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