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ridin on rotas
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ok, so I bought the crower valve springs and the crower stage 1 cam from the people selling here. I'm going to have these installed when I have my 100k tune up done.

1. What retainers should I use for the springs? I've heard that titanium doesn't hold up, but is light weight. so this made me want to use factory retainers. should I put on new factory retainers, or do you think my retainers with 100k miles on them will be ok?

2. when changing the springs, if each cylinder is at TDC will the valves fall completely into the cylinder forcing removal of the head? I know that you can use a compressor and fill the cylinder with air so the valves won't drop. but if for some reason something failed, is there enough room for the valve to drop into the cylinder?

3. when changing the cam, is there anything that I should change? ie. the cam seal, bearings?

also any insight or comments are welcomed.

thanks for your help.
 
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1. Crower sells sets to prefent anything wrong from happening, you should stick to those sets.

2. If @ TDC they wont fall all the way in, you can still grab them with pinchers or what ever.

3. dunno
 
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for:

1. i used stock retainers... check the wear on them and go from there..

2. if the piston is at TDC the valve will not disappear into the engine if it does slip... if your valve seals are good there should be enough pressure to hold the valve in a closed position... just be careful when you put the valve springs back on... it the valve drops pull it out and try again... pretty easy once you get the hang of it...

3. cam seal?... and don't forget to use assembly lube when re-assembling....

good luck!
 

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ridin on rotas
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Discussion Starter #4
I have a mechanic doing this. he does most of my work. and I just want all parts to him before I give him the car. make things go faster be easier. and I want everything to work properly and be safe.

also with aftermarket springs and factory retainers, how high can you safely rev the motor?

for now I'm leaving the redline stock, but later I'll want to swap in a turbo cam, when I get a turbo. so I want to get the valve springs done. but I would like to be able to rev to 8000 - 9000, safely. but I'll figure my shift points after I go turbo and get it dyno tuned.
 

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i would use titainium retainers not only cause that's what comp. recommends but because since arachnid just posted saying he broke one of the stock ones with a stage 2 zex cam, whitch is reason enough fo me to use titainium.

and the cam seal, you don't have to change it, but it is recommended, i didn't change mine and it started leaking oil so i had to go in and cover where it was leaking with some liquid gasket, hasn't leaked a drop since. But if i did it agian i would replace it.

and you will definatley be able to rev higher but i wouldn't go much higher than 8k cause your stock rods and pistons can only take so much and they were never meant to spin at 9k. i'd say keep it around 8k
 

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ridin on rotas
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Discussion Starter #6
I've heard that the springs will dig into and wear out the Titanium retainers. plus in arachnid's case, he used a stage 2 cam with stock valve springs/retainers that had 120k miles.

I would be using brand new retainers and valvesprings.

well I won't be reving over 7k, until later when everything is ready.
 
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i thought the oem retainers were supposed to be decent (strength-wise)... but the beef with them is that they are 'heavy'...
 

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If you have crower springs get there ret kit too, if you get a bigger cam or FI later, your vlv train is ready, don't work or spend twice. Smarter not harder!
 

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I'd swap the retainers also! IF upgrading, Upgrade from OEM.
The Crower cams, springs and retainers were meant to run together. I'm sure this is how the tests were done. Not with OEM retainers.
 
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