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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What’s up everyone I need some advice. I recently purchased a d16y8 for my hatch civic 1996. The engine is mounted, and I tried turning on the car but it only cranks. I replaced the fuel pump and there is still no electricity going to it. I changed the relay and still the fuel pump turning on noise doesn’t come about. The battery is good, I also checked it with one of those electrical checking things. My father helped btw. All the fuses are good. I’m guessing it’s something electrical does someone have insight!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
check and double check the grounds. checked main relay?
I had to google grounds, but the car is on grass and dirt idk if that is good but I’m not sure if the main relay is good. I forgot I have to double check. I would check now but I am an hour away from the car it is at my fathers house. Hopefully that is the issue, but thanks for replying!
 

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Main relay is mounted on the end of the dashboard, passenger side. Pop the side panel off, open the glovebox and pop it out and let it hang down. 10mm bolt secures the main relay to the dash frame.

Put your hand on it while someone turns the key. If it does not click, I would unplug the ignition key harness and check for voltage at the correct pins.

You will also want to circuit test the ignition switch itself to rule it out.

Why did you replace the fuel pump? If you had no power going to it, that rules out the fuel pump being the issue in this situation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Main relay is mounted on the end of the dashboard, passenger side. Pop the side panel off, open the glovebox and pop it out and let it hang down. 10mm bolt secures the main relay to the dash frame.

Put your hand on it while someone turns the key. If it does not click, I would unplug the ignition key harness and check for voltage at the correct pins.

You will also want to circuit test the ignition switch itself to rule it out.

Why did you replace the fuel pump? If you had no power going to it, that rules out the fuel pump being the issue in this situation.
I feel dumb as fuck for some reason I thought “the main relay was another relay aside from the fuel pump relay” that’s what I know it by. But yes my fuel pump relay is fine. And I took it out because the car was sitting for a while. I read somewhere that they go bad because of that, also took it out for the fun of it. But yes the old one was bad I checked it with a multimeter it is suppose to make a noise and it does not. I replaced the pump, my relay is good, the fuses are good. Also my battery is also up to par. It has to be something with the wiring. But thanks a lot I totally forgot about the ignition switch I have to also check it.

Main relay is mounted on the end of the dashboard, passenger side. Pop the side panel off, open the glovebox and pop it out and let it hang down. 10mm bolt secures the main relay to the dash frame.

Put your hand on it while someone turns the key. If it does not click, I would unplug the ignition key harness and check for voltage at the correct pins.

You will also want to circuit test the ignition switch itself to rule it out.

Why did you replace the fuel pump? If you had no power going to it, that rules out the fuel pump being the issue in this situation.
But again I’m sure it has to do something with the wiring because you’re suppose to hear the pump turn on even if you haven’t fully tried turning the car on!
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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Does your check engine light illuminate for roughly 3 seconds when the key is cycled to the on position? Not the start position but the on position. If it doesn't the first things to check are the thermostat housing grounds, and the fuses for the ignition and ecu, test the fuses with a test light or multimeter by touching the exposed terminals at the top of the fuse, pulling and visual checking can sometimes bite you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Does your check engine light illuminate for roughly 3 seconds when the key is cycled to the on position? Not the start position but the on position. If it doesn't the first things to check are the thermostat housing grounds, and the fuses for the ignition and ecu, test the fuses with a test light or multimeter by touching the exposed terminals at the top of the fuse, pulling and visual checking can sometimes bite you.
It displays when I put the key in, turn it just to get the radio and everything going. And when I try to ignite the car. When the car ran before it would be on. I’ve yet to check the thermostat and and I am learning now about the housing grounds does this even relate to the fuel pump?
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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The housing grounds are what the ecu operates on, without that ground present nothing happens, no injector or ignition pulse, no fuel pump prime, but the starter motor still works as thats grounded through the bracket that bolts to the transmission.
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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I know it's that hard, but this is kinda what I do, lol. He's at least typing stuff in, maybe slo shows up with that how to .gif soon, lol. Anyhow, if he wants to learn and ask relevant questions I'll try to help, to the best of my meager abilities 😁
 

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93 Civic HB SI, 95 Civic HB CX
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I know, same here :D

When I saw that, I literally froze and didn't know how best to help lol. My brain did what spongebob did!

And that's why you'll hear absolutely zero flamage from me here! I just dont personally have the strength to do so right now in text form haha, I'll help where I can, but my brain won't let me text teach from that far back right now lol.

But just know, I'm tuned in for the long haul...

We love you OP, good luck!
 

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The 2 most important grounds are the main battery ground and the thermostat ground. The thermostat ground can look fine, but be grimy and crappy underneath. Simply use a flathead screwdriver to make some fresh metal show, and bolt it back down, for now.

Tug on the battery ground lightly, see if it wiggles at all. Dont pull hard.


When you turn the key, you should hear a couple clicks and the beeping.

Turn your radio on, and turn your lights on. If when you turn to start the engine, the radio does not shut off during cranking, the igniton switch or the wiring is the problem. If the headlights damn near shut off compeltely, the battery is weak or you have a bad ground somewhere.
 

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'91 CRX DX, D15B (D15Z7), ZC L3
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Since nobody else did it:

I had to google grounds, but the car is on grass and dirt
In electrical terms, "ground" means a point with zero volts. The name comes from house and building wiring, where the "ground" wire is literally connected to a long metal rod driven into the ground outside the building.
In cars, the metal body of the vehicle is ground. Nearly all cars are negative ground, meaning the negative post of the battery is connected to the car body. Further, the engine block and transmission are connected to ground (the car body) by a dedicated cable, called the ground cable. Since the starter motor works, we can assume those two cables (battery negative -> car body, and car body -> transmission) are good. The engine is bolted to the transmission, so it is also grounded.
The starter motor, alternator, ignition coil and spark plugs are all grounded (have negative electrical connections) through the engine block/transmission. All of the rest of the engine management system's electrical components have a dedicated ground wire that bolts to the engine at the thermostat housing. It looks like a metal ring with black and brown wires connected to it. It should be clean (no corrosion or broken wires) and tightly fastened with a bolt to a hole on the thermostat. If it is not connected, the ECU will not power up. The ECU controls when the fuel pump runs by activating the main relay. None of that can happen if the thermostat ground is loose or disconnected.
There are also ground points on the inner fender behind each headlight, and inside the car under the left and right ends of the dashboard. However the thermostat ground is most commonly overlooked, and most important for engine operation.
 
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