Ok so I recently bent a valve and broke a guide on my head, so I had that fixed, put it all back together and now here's my problem:
I'll answer the questions I've asked myself first
How do I know this? When I pull off #4 spark plug wire (by the dist) the whole car dies.
1. Yes it has gas
2. Yes the injectors are wired properly
3. Yes I tried rewiring them like 10 times
4. Tried with resistor box
5. Tried with inline resistors
6. Yes I tried swapping them with different injectors
7. Yes it has spark
8. Yes it has compression
and there is NO way it is running on only one cylinder. you need to pull each plug wire one at a time and see which plugs MAKE NO DIFFERENCE then you know what cylinder is the problem.
I've pulled each plug, when I pull the last closest to the dist the car dies completely, pulling any other plug makes no difference. and it's not really running.... you have to stay on the gas to keep it alive, it won't idle.
Confirm mechanical cam timing. What are your compression readings? Where do you have spark? Confirm spark at the plugs themselves. You can confirm fuel by pulling the rail off the manifold and keeping the injectors on the rail and placing a little cup underneath each injector.
Confirm mechanical cam timing. What are your compression readings? Where do you have spark? Confirm spark at the plugs themselves. You can confirm fuel by pulling the rail off the manifold and keeping the injectors on the rail and placing a little cup underneath each injector.
You can't check your own cam timing? Damn, put your oil dipstick tube into cylinder 1 to see where TDC is and then take a look at your cam gear and see if its correct.
4 bangers shouldn't start with only one cylinder, will make exhaust backfire or intake backfire firing order is wrong. If the injector pulse isn't at the right time, it might start, intake port can keep the gaz a short time in it before the next opening. But I don't think it run with only one cylinder.
It's often what we messed with, and I see that you've played enough with injector wires.
1: Watch if the firing order is in right order. with another running honda, or with valve cover removed and dizzy cap removed to see each cylinder stroke and fire time.
2: Once right, maybe some people here will throw me tomatoes, but it works: put four 12 volt bulbs on each injector plugs (unplugged), and try to start if you have voltage to each injector connector. If not It could be you roasted your ecu by plugging wrong injectors (high or low impedance) without resistor box.
3: If you have 4 bulb working, remove all 4 spark plugs and spark wires (let the spark plugs to the wire, it will be your fire signal), Align them with each cylinder and bulb, and ask to somebody to start, you will see bulb lightening fast JUST before the spark, if not, wrong wiring connection. Engine is not turning that fast, you should see that.
It could be a first diagnosis, perhaps it won't work if trouble is somewhere else.
I think it would be impossible for a motor to run on JUST 1 cyl (in 4 cyl) for a standard 4 stroke motor. But hey, if you did the trial and error to find this, im very surprised.
did you check your rocker to valve gap. if its a little to tight the valve will stay slightly open and losing all compression in that cylinder.
i know this cuz i've done it and almost ripped out all my hair trying to figure out what the hell was wrong. so i pulled the valve cover and started checking and sure enough two valves were to tight, 1 in cylinder 1 and 1 in cyl. 4. my prob was i adjusted them all turning the motor 1 time and moving to the next cylinder. after reading if i recall you turn the motor twice before moving to the next cylinder.
did you check your rocker to valve gap. if its a little to tight the valve will stay slightly open and losing all compression in that cylinder.
i know this cuz i've done it and almost ripped out all my hair trying to figure out what the hell was wrong. so i pulled the valve cover and started checking and sure enough two valves were to tight, 1 in cylinder 1 and 1 in cyl. 4. my prob was i adjusted them all turning the motor 1 time and moving to the next cylinder. after reading if i recall you turn the motor twice before moving to the next cylinder.
if they were too tight it will start, but it will make intake or exhaust back fire, run like shit, not run on 1 cylinder. It doesn't look a mecanical issue. 90% is something electric.
If I read what you said, you write like your buddy before, both you and him without reading. :board-trip:
IT HAS COMPRESSION on each cylinders. A bad valve lash or leaking valve will get around + or - 20% of lost, more if valve is burnt. It should start anyways one or two cylinder has no fuckin' compression.
He should start by being sure of injection and ignition, and after see if it might be a mecanic issue.
It need 3 things for a motor start: Ignition, carburation, compression. Both first are the easiest, shortest, cheapest to fix.
My car is a 2004 Toyota corolla and has this same problem, going all the way back to replacing a valve, then running only on what seems to be l cyl, 140 compression, all sparks firing, etc.... did you ever find out the problem...any help wild be appreciated
Im sorry? I meant, wow beer is such a fucking asshole for trying to help this noob out. chill out bro, he didn't know?
lol, love ya bro. Id hit it
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