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Y5 and Y8 are the same casting with the quench pads. Y5 has the rollers and Y8 has the standard rocker pads. Switching between 12v and 16v will require the original ECU, so tunability will be a problem. If you want, you can lock it in 16v mode permanently and use the benefits of roller rockers.

Also search for RRussell on the forums here.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Engine management is getting me a little lost here. By that I mean, what are the advantages of the options out there? what are those anyways?

So far I hear:
AEM afic for obdII
Going OBDI

What is going to give me the control needed?
 
Discussion starter · #26 · (Edited)
Y5 and Y8 are the same casting with the quench pads. Y5 has the rollers and Y8 has the standard rocker pads. Switching between 12v and 16v will require the original ECU, so tunability will be a problem. If you want, you can lock it in 16v mode permanently and use the benefits of roller rockers.
Must have the 12v option. Isn't that the design for lean burn head, cause by air swirl of the odd valve closed to burn more efficently? That and running 4 more valves is more work when it's not req.

The only way is original ECU?
 
Beav is someone you want to give advice to you. Id listen to him. People like patprimer, beav, cervan, ryan, ddd, danz, etc. (too many to list) are not people you want to dismiss. I they tell you that there is a wealth if information on the topic, then that means they have had great discussions on the respective topics.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Look. His post has nothing to do with what this topic is on.

Now if he linked, or even shed some light on something then maybe... But retardisum is what destroys ligament discussions, and makes another pointless thread. one of which I came here to avoid.

Now if all your members are like this. Then cya.
 
We do not spoon feed here. We encourage research on your end because it ultimately helps you in the end.

More info for you, like I stated before nearly 80 MPG has been achieved with a vtec 16v head. No need for a y5 or 12v head. A larger turbo will net better gains out of boost in MPG because it will flow more air volume and the engine will not have to suck the air. The higher volume will only require the injectors to fire fuel. You can control the fuel. I personally built a 250 HP b7 that netted 50 MPG when driving conservatively.

18:1 afr in cruise, 50 trim turbo, 450 CC injectors. The injector design and its.atomization pattern will also help with fuel mileage as well as power.

Basic principle the less hard the engine has to work, the better the mileage that can be achieved
Focus on atomization (keeping fuel suspended as vapor in the air) as well as the amount of fuel needed to maintain power to move the car along with timing. Then you can get into reducing.the.coefficient of drag as well as rolling friction.

Sorry about the choppiness of the post I'm on my phone.
 
^lol so much info.

How do you focus on keeping your fuel atomized?
What pistons were you using to make 250?
Im assuming accomplishing such a high MPG it all comes down to tuning nothing you can really do manually to achieve to achieve those MPG's
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
So much info?
i am having trouble finding any that I don't already know.
Thats why I made this post.
Then you get morons in here that don't READ anything, and assume the poster knows nothing.

Its that cockiness that is unjustified.

I am no here for large HP numbers.
I am not here for you to pick my engine or turbo.

Most this stuff I have had experience with.
I am a master ASE tech, i don't need you telling me what I can or can not do.
I am asking about things I am not familiar with.
Such as the programs designed exclusively for HONDA. Which I keep reinforcing on just about every post.

So here I am in engine management, looking for some tips with programs people are using. Not for some OG to flame a thread he did not read, just for sake of post count. I am not here for a popularity contest...
 
Then take seconds to do a fucking Google search. There are endless obd1 programs to tune with an emulator, chip burner, or rtp board. To stay obd2 you apparently know you will need to keep the OEM ecu. So look up obd2 piggybacks.

Now if you're too lazy to do that and easily answer your own extremely generic question which has been covered in this site alone from front to back, I would be very surprised if anyone else cares to answer your questions.


To egwhite it was a bone stock engine and lasted me 20,000 miles with no issues. Compression was 195 across the board with 200k on the engine.
 
So much info?
i am having trouble finding any that I don't already know.
Thats why I made this post.
Then you get morons in here that don't READ anything, and assume the poster knows nothing.

Its that cockiness that is unjustified.

I am no here for large HP numbers.
I am not here for you to pick my engine or turbo.

Most this stuff I have had experience with.
I am a master ASE tech, i don't need you telling me what I can or can not do.
I am asking about things I am not familiar with.
Such as the programs designed exclusively for HONDA. Which I keep reinforcing on just about every post.

So here I am in engine management, looking for some tips with programs people are using. Not for some OG to flame a thread he did not read, just for sake of post count. I am not here for a popularity contest...
Then tell us what you know already. Here at DSO, we, or at least the serious members, try to have intellectual discussions. Asking such a generic question, expecting to be spoon fed, and then being so offended when you are essentially told to search an extensively covered topic by a respected member is NOT the best way to get answers OR respect.

I have only been told/taught 5% of what I know. Everything else has been taught to me by myself. Research: the journey is more important than the destination.

Do not try to place the fault on us when we don't answer your question.

Search.
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
Then take seconds to do a fucking Goggle search. There are endless obd1 programs to tune with an emulator, chip burner, or rtp board. To stay obd2 you apparently know you will need to keep the OEM ecu. So look up obd2 piggybacks.

Now if you're too lazy to do that and easily answer your own extremely generic question which has been covered in this site alone from front to back, I would be very surprised if anyone else cares to answer your questions.


To egwhite it was a bone stock engine and lasted me 20,000 miles with no issues. Compression was 195 across the board with 200k on the engine.
I didn't crap this site out of my ass, no I googled this shit out of it for months. It says this in the opening... dose it not.


How many people tune a turbo car in these forums for fuel efficacy (LEAN BURN)
So here I am, in the advanced section. Where others who may GET what I am talking about. And the hopes to offer me suggestions before I blow my money (like they may very well have done already) on an inferior product.

Not asking for just anyone to come post, but rather usfull information related.
 
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