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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Um I hit vtec and it started pulling like mad, I blew the head gasket as a result of this. My BOV was for some reason stuck shut so I think I hit about 20 psi by the time this happened. Oh also this was on 89 octane fuel because it had a full tank of it so I mean, waste 40$ of gas or blow the motor idk man. Car runs and drives fine until it warms up and it starts smoking white from coolant.
Just the short second where it hit vtec, these things can go way to fast.
 

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Why is your CEL on? Codes? You can check codes from your tuning application. Sounds like its hitting some kind of cut or limiter or something? Hard to tell without doing it a few times in a row, but definitely check for fault codes.

How has this thing been tuned? What MAP sensor are you using? Runaway boost on a stock MAP sensor could have broken it.

Dude, always ALWAYS set a low boost cut, especially on first rips when boost control devices are either new or have been disconnected/reconnected, and ease your way in. It will save your engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Why is your CEL on? Codes? You can check codes from your tuning application. Sounds like its hitting some kind of cut or limiter or something? Hard to tell without doing it a few times in a row, but definitely check for fault codes.

How has this thing been tuned? What MAP sensor are you using? Runaway boost on a stock MAP sensor could have broken it.

Dude, always ALWAYS set a low boost cut, especially on first rips when boost control devices are either new or have been disconnected/reconnected, and ease your way in. It will save your engine.
CEL is on just from the o2 sensors, I still haven't disabled them because I have my wideband installed, I haven't cleared the lights whatsoever. I was running stock map sensor and my 3 bar came in the mail the next day haha so that's installed now, I will definitely add a boost cut now that it can read it.

Tuned by me with neptune, I got a custom basemap for crome then tried to understand it to make my own conservative tune in neptune. I haven't even put my big injectors in yet because I wanted that to limit my power so I don't mess anything up to bad yet.
 

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You maxxed out the stock MAP with stock injectors? Lol. You know the stock MAP can read like 8-10PSI right?

Just disable O2 from the neptune settings if that's what the CEL is. If stock O2 is not being used, it can be disabled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You maxxed out the stock MAP with stock injectors? Lol. You know the stock MAP can read like 8-10PSI right?

Just disable O2 from the neptune settings if that's what the CEL is. If stock O2 is not being used, it can be disabled.
CEL is off now, stock MAP definitely could've covered my ass but I decided I wanted more than 10psi so it wasn't optimal to boost cut before hand. Should I change my head studs? ARP have been in the car for less than 10 000km. Gonna most likely get whatever I can resurfaced and then copper spray the shit out of the headgasket.
 

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You are running boost, and you did it on stock MAP and stock injectors?

Wanting to get better at motor swaps, I see.


The issue could be as simple as boost pushing the coolant around enough to blow spark out.

I would still pop the head off the engine to check things out, even if studs fix it. a LOT can happen with sudden overboost. The stock MAP likes to backfeed and send a shitty signal when it is above 8psi, and a few seconds of "no boost" fueling due to shitty signal can kill an engine.


Time to take it off the road for a serious inspection before making any decisions.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You are running boost, and you did it on stock MAP and stock injectors?

Wanting to get better at motor swaps, I see.


The issue could be as simple as boost pushing the coolant around enough to blow spark out.

I would still pop the head off the engine to check things out, even if studs fix it. a LOT can happen with sudden overboost. The stock MAP likes to backfeed and send a shitty signal when it is above 8psi, and a few seconds of "no boost" fueling due to shitty signal can kill an engine.


Time to take it off the road for a serious inspection before making any decisions.
I mean you are right I am trying to get better at working on it, parts are so cheap and so available that idrc, it's a good learning experience forsure. So this 3 bar MAP I have should give me more safety thank you
 

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When good MAP sensors are $50 or less, and good injectors upwards of 1000cc are under $300, there isnt much excuse to waste your own time and money.

Especially since the stock injectors barely support 150whp, let alone any mild turbo setup.

Its a trade off, but my time is always worth more to me, than the short amount of fun stock parts will offer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
When good MAP sensors are $50 or less, and good injectors upwards of 1000cc are under $300, there isnt much excuse to waste your own time and money.

Especially since the stock injectors barely support 150whp, let alone any mild turbo setup.

Its a trade off, but my time is always worth more to me, than the short amount of fun stock parts will offer.
I have injectors on hand that I just haven't installed yet because I don't care to. Once I put new hg in I am going to install them. I came from Mercedes so all of this is just so nice to work on and learn. I do regret not putting the injectors in sooner tho that's for sure
 

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I have injectors on hand that I just haven't installed yet because I don't care to. Once I put new hg in I am going to install them. I came from Mercedes so all of this is just so nice to work on and learn. I do regret not putting the injectors in sooner tho that's for sure
I think you need to read some more about tuning.

You cant boost more than your MAP sensor can read. With the stock one, 10PSI is about your limit. If you went higher than that and pegged the sensor, the ECU will freak out and cut everything for safety, since it cant provide the range necessary to scale against your fuel and ignition maps any higher than the 10PSI column.

Do you have a 1:1 rising rate fuel pressure regulator? How lean was your AFR under boost before you blew your HG with the stock injectors?

You absolutely want to run larger injectors, and I would go so far to say you should not try and see boost again without installing them.

The stock injectors on a stock engine with stock fuel pressure are at like 70-80% duty near redline just trying to keep up with stock power requirements!

If you maxxed out your stock MAP sensor under boost for your first rip, you were lean as Fuck guaranteed on stock injectors and stock fuel pressure regulator.

Also, MAP sensors arent safety devices. They only show manifold pressure. Going with a larger pressure range MAP sensor shows you manifold pressure ABOVE your stock one. So since you pegged the stock, you can know you hit at least 10PSI. With the bigger one, you can read how much boost you were really running.
 

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I was running 10psi
12psi twords the end.
On a stock map sensor.
Using 800cc LS Injectors
Afr was around 12:1
With hardly any timing.
Ran strong for 6 months
Blew a manifold gasket at 15psi then pulled the turbo off becuase I kept wanting more.
I needed my daily at the time lol.

Lifted the head the first time on stock headbolts only at about 6-7 psi

I would listen to these guys
Definitely upgrade your map and injectors.
I have sense learned alot and am building a motor for boost.
 

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I was running 10psi
12psi twords the end.
On a stock map sensor.
Using 800cc LS Injectors
Afr was around 12:1
12:1 seems high, was it because you ran out of injector or was it just tuned that way? I doubt 800cc wouldn't be able to push you into the low-mid 11s. I'm mostly just curious.


OP it seems like you're trying to learn through intentional destruction. While it might be fun an interesting, I'm curious why you're going about this all in such a lacsidaisical manner?
 
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Yea it had plenty of injector, it was the tune. I wasnt tuning my own car then.
It was like 11.9:1 up top
But richer midrange.
Just some BS tune I put on it, my buddy had and modified.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
12:1 seems high, was it because you ran out of injector or was it just tuned that way? I doubt 800cc wouldn't be able to push you into the low-mid 11s. I'm mostly just curious.


OP it seems like you're trying to learn through intentional destruction. While it might be fun an interesting, I'm curious why you're going about this all in such a lacsidaisical manner?
Honestly I wish I had an answer. I think my brain has been tainted by Mercedes. It was a 1300$ car so I am not very scared. From what I've said it seems like I've been lazy af working on it but it honestly isn't the case. I am not trying to build a race car, just a daily that can shred. I am going to take it somewhere to get dyno tuned hopefully because I am far from knowledgeable about it. I have heard so many different things about injectors, I was under the assumption that with an upgraded fuel pump it would be able to push enough fuel through which I now realize is stupid because of the pressure regulator. I feel nearly invincible working on the car because parts are actually available compared to my mercedes, information is actually out there.

I plead ignorance lol, I know very little about tuning and turbo. I thought I blew the headgasket but I actually just blew the radiator because the cap was broken so it couldn't overflow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Also I massively appreciate all of the information and suggestions. I absolutely love this community.
 

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The stock fuel pump, if it is the factory one form assembly, is physically capable of supporting 300-400whp worth of fuel, but the age pretty much renders it useless much above factory power these days.


Put it this way. Fuel system for these cars is so cheap and easy in comparison to most cars, that doing things properly the first go around is possible.

Lets pretend you popped a motor though. Even if the next motor is FREE. You are still out the cost of fluids, gaskets, and your time, in addition to all of those pesky "while Im in there" parts, like timing belt, water pump, hoses, rear main, etc....


Grab an Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, walbro 190 fuel pump that specifies ethanol support (even if you dont run E85, the stronger guts are more durable overall), and get that tune nailed down.

For now, it would not be a bad idea to cut a coil off the wastegate spring, and make it boost much less than normal, and really dial in the tune. Then you can worry about cranking the power up.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The stock fuel pump, if it is the factory one form assembly, is physically capable of supporting 300-400whp worth of fuel, but the age pretty much renders it useless much above factory power these days.


Put it this way. Fuel system for these cars is so cheap and easy in comparison to most cars, that doing things properly the first go around is possible.

Lets pretend you popped a motor though. Even if the next motor is FREE. You are still out the cost of fluids, gaskets, and your time, in addition to all of those pesky "while Im in there" parts, like timing belt, water pump, hoses, rear main, etc....


Grab an Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, walbro 190 fuel pump that specifies ethanol support (even if you dont run E85, the stronger guts are more durable overall), and get that tune nailed down.

For now, it would not be a bad idea to cut a coil off the wastegate spring, and make it boost much less than normal, and really dial in the tune. Then you can worry about cranking the power up.
I put a 5 psi spring in and started to learn neptune, that was a good suggestion thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
BOV wasnt opening because it was binding on itself so i put lithium grease on it and away I went it works.The noise was cuz I blew my spark out, i totally forgot to gap them to 0.032 lol.
I went for to much power to fast.
 
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