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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
What would cause a camshaft pulley (#12 in the pic below) to come loose TWICE, even after being properly torqued to 27 lb. ft? Car is a 96 Civic Ex with a D16Y8, timing belt is new and was working fine for a year before this took place.

Driving on the freeway, engine shuts off randomly, get the car towed home, pull the VC and the upper timing belt cover and I see the pulley bolt (#20 in the pic below) like halfway out and the little nub on the inside of the pulley is snapped off.

Inspected camshaft and rockers, installed a new pulley to 33 lb.ft. just to be safe and re-tightened the timing belt, checked compression and got 180 across the board, car drives fine for ten miles and then the pulley snaps again, same exact problem!!!

WHAT'S GOING ON :taz:



HOW IT LOOKED AFTER THE SECOND TIME



THIS PIC SHOWS THE NUB THAT KEEPS SNAPPING OFF

 

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ministry of mayhem!
93 honda integra
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oem cam and springs?

also, suspecting that cam may be stripped.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The journal shown below in the middle has a small ridge sticking up and I found some tiny metal shavings in this area so I'm pretty sure this is the problem. (If you look closely you can see how it looks rounded near the exhaust valve spring.) Also the camshaft has a hairline crack that goes all the way down the threads, but I'm not sure if that was there before or if it happened when the camshaft jammed this last time. What do I do about this? New camshaft and pulley for sure, can I get the journals redone or something or do I have to replace the whole head?



Also there are these weird cracked areas next to the valve springs that don't make sense to me because the valves don't move that way haha.

 

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Discussion Starter #9
How did you buy this head? Was it already messed with before? Or off a running motor?
Original head that overheated to 250* for a short time, was milled and then put back on. Now I'm guessing the journals were warped and caused the camshaft to bind.
 

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The whole head was twisted and now it is binding the cam. That's your issue. Sorry bro but you will need a new head since they never straightened the head before milling it. My brother is having his head redone for the same issue.( heads can be restraightened if they aren't too far out) this unfortunately can't be salvaged. Too much damage to the cam journals and it sounds like things are cracked.
 

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If it isn't damaged as well or show signs of excessive wear.
 

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Make sure the head comes with the original cam caps. Everything is line bored to match and mixing up the caps can cause the same damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Make sure the head comes with the original cam caps. Everything is line bored to match and mixing up the caps can cause the same damage.
To avoid problems with the cam caps I'm just gonna buy a new cylinder head with everything attached. Should I do a piston ring job and hone just because everything is taken apart or see if I get good compression numbers first?
 

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^If the motor wasn't smoking before, you'll still be fine...assuming the head is in good working order. Yeah, you definitely need to replace the entire head AND cam. Milling the new head isn't 100% necessary if it is already perfectly flat. I would replace the valve stem seals and and other seals though.

GL!
 

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That sucks man. Yep, best bet overall would be replacing entire head assembly.
 

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Classic Man
Civic
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Not enough oil flow, I think.
You would think that is the case over the fact he said it was overheated to 250f, machined without being straightened, and then put back on a warped block?

Beave... step your game up.:fart:
 

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There is no need to replace it in my opinion.
Line boring a head is not expensive, but also I have no idea for how much you can get the new assembly for.
 

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^See, that's the thing; here in the states you can probably get a good used head for as much (if not less) that it would cost to line bore this head.
 
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