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Tools needed:

10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 15mm, 17mm & 18mm sockets (shallow or deep)

Ratchet or air tools (preferably air)

17mm, 18mm & 22mm wrench (box end and open ended is needed)

Cotter pins (small)

Pair of pliers or the like (for the cotter pins


Optional: Vise, pry bars, flathead screw driver.


Obviously jack up the car and place on jack stands. Then remove all four (4) wheels


Step 1: Ensure that you have all the needed pieces for the install as well as the correct kit.

Step 2: Remove the upper control arm connecting the wheel hub to the chassis by removing the two 14mm bolts on the chassis side and the single 14mm bolt on the hub side.

Step 3: Assemble the camber kit carefully. Notice that one side is a left handed thread. This side has a silver nut. After assembly is complete, this is what it should look like.

Step 4: Hold up to the stock arm and space out to the stock length as best you can. It doesn't have to be precise as it will be adjusted at the alignment shop.

Step 5: Re-install in the opposite order of removal.

Step 6: With the 18mm and 22mm wrenches, tighten the nuts secure, be sure not to over torque.


Step 1: Ensure that you have all the needed pieces for the install as well as the correct kit.

Step 2: Place one of the camber kit pieces in a vice. Be careful not to crush the bushings.

Step 3: Tighten the 15mm nut on all of the pieces of the front camber kit. There are four (4) all together. You will want to tighten them at there innermost position. This put you at 1.25 degree of positive adjustment already.

Step 4: Remove the stock cotter pin and the 17mm nut at the top of the steering knuckle. Be careful not to destroy the cotter pin if you do not have a replacement.

Step 5: Gently tap on the side of the ball joint and the knuckle to dislodge the ball joint. We do not recommend using a pickle fork as it will damage the boot.

Step 6: Completely remove the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle.

Step 7: Loosen and remove the 17mm nut and bolt and the 14mm bolt on the lower stut fork.

Step 8: Remove the two 12mm bolts holding the brake line to the strut.

Step 9: Completely remove and set aside the lower strut fork.

Step10: On the drivers side front (left side of vehicle), find the two 17mm nuts and remove them, you may have to move a few wires to find them. They look like this: Left front & Left rear

Step11: On the passenger side, you will want to remove the fuse box out of the way. It is held on by 2 10mm bolts. It will give you easier access to the nuts by doing this.

Step12: After you have removed the nuts you will be able to drop the upper control arm down around the strut assembly.

Step13: Take a good look at the stock set up as you will not want to install the camber kit upside down.

Step14: Loosen and remove the 14mm nut and bolt holding the stock bushing joints in place.

Step15: Completely disassemble the control arm.

Step16: Gently hammer out the bushing joints. Be careful not to bend or damage the brace that holds them together, it will be reused.

Step17: Place the new camber kit pieces into place. *Note* For some reason we had to add additional room to the control arm for clearance. We talked the Ingalls tech support and they stated that this is a 'FIRST' for them, but needless to say we had to do it.

Step18: Remove the 'rings' on the camber kits and place the brace in their place.

Step19: Install in the reverse order of removal.

Step20: Use the 18mm nuts that Ingalls supplies and NOT the stock 17mm nuts.

Step21: Double check that everything has been tightened and reinstall your wheels and torque them to 80 ft lbs.
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