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Discussion Starter #1
Black works racing makes some pretty good s***, but I must say these camber arms have left a funny taste in my mouth after using them.

Install is a piece of cake as most rear camber arms are. Two bolts to the chassis, one to the rear trailing arm, job done.

The point where things get interesting is when you dial in the rear camber. For reference, this was for a track setting, not for stance.....yo. I decided -1.5 to -2 degrees would be adequate for AutoX days ( for now) and I went ahead to adjust them. However......

Adjusting only takes you to about -1 degree and then the adjusting arm becomes maxed out, which is a problem. Here's the catch.... there are small hash marks laser cut into the adjusting arm. Hmmm, what would those be for you might ask?

I looked at the other side, same thing. Then I noticed that the BWR logo is offset on the adjusting arm itself. THE LASER HASH MARKS ARE "CUT HERE STUPID" MARKS!?!?!

You literally have to CUT the adjusting arm to size, so you can properly dial in your camber degrees when you go beyond -1 degree of camber.

All in all, a simple procedure, but I'm posting this so people know what they are getting into before they get stuck. I believe the normal "rubber filled" rear camber arms BWR sells at a lower price does not have this problem, but if anyone has them and wants to compare, PLEASE post them up!

Quality product still. A little hassle. Working just fine, tight as a drum. -1.75 degrees of camber in the end. I'd give them an A-
 

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90 CRX Si
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Thanks for sharing, but do you have any pics? I've been using the rubber filled and the only issue I've come across is the jamb nuts would back off until I put loctite on the threads.
 

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Pics would help. But if it is the way you're describing, that sounds pretty ridiculous. I for one do not expect to buy an aftermarket part only to further modify said aftermarket part. Defeats the initial purpose of it. ESP something as simply designed as an adjustable rear upper arm..

FWIW, I was able to get an easy -2.5* of rear camber out of my Ingalls rear upper arms. Still have room to go for more if I wanted to..
 

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m1165a2 HMMWV
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Seems a little weird that that is all you would get out of it with out further modifying the product.
 

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93 Legend L Coupe.
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*sighs*

Will I do not and will not support BWR, there is nothing wrong with a design like that. At all. In fact, I'd prefer that to "standard" things because most cars are NOT factory fresh. Things move, more than you would suspect. Being able to trim some material and get a proper fit is not a bad idea.

I still find this whole thing retarded as there is nothing wrong with washers and extended bolts. heh.
 

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*sighs*

Will I do not and will not support BWR, there is nothing wrong with a design like that. At all. In fact, I'd prefer that to "standard" things because most cars are NOT factory fresh. Things move, more than you would suspect. Being able to trim some material and get a proper fit is not a bad idea.

I still find this whole thing retarded as there is nothing wrong with washers and extended bolts. heh.
The way the OP is describing the part, it sounds like to get any more negative camber, you will need to cut the control arm.. Which is just stupid. That's not proper fitment..

The whole washers/extended bolts is only for reducing negative camber while using the stock upper arm. Which if you want better performance and tuning, you will want something adjustable and that will be able to give you a high amount of negative camber. So the stock arm and washers will not do the trick...

This is the best picture I could find that might be related to what the OP is talking about. I'm assuming the etched lines in the arm are what he is describing as the cutting points.


Just for comparison, a pic of my Ingalls rear arms
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Haha, I should pay more attention, lots of feedback... good!

Thanks for sharing, but do you have any pics? I've been using the rubber filled and the only issue I've come across is the jamb nuts would back off until I put loctite on the threads.
I forgot to take pics b/c I was so done with this product. It was like 1am before I figured it all out.

Pics would help. But if it is the way you're describing, that sounds pretty ridiculous. I for one do not expect to buy an aftermarket part only to further modify said aftermarket part. Defeats the initial purpose of it. ESP something as simply designed as an adjustable rear upper arm..

FWIW, I was able to get an easy -2.5* of rear camber out of my Ingalls rear upper arms. Still have room to go for more if I wanted to..
You're absolutely right, it is ridiculous. I'd buy buddy club if I could do it over again. spendy, but I've never had a single issue with them.

Something might be up with your suspension bud. I have the BWR poly uppers and without any modifications I was able to dial in 2.5* on both sides and still have some adjustment left, not much, but definetely some more I can go
Nope, I thought the same thing, so I checked and measured.... same on both sides. Everything lines up, nothing bent, frame is straight. Yeah, that's what I thought was so weird is that there is NO room for adjustment before I cut off that extra bit of metal on the adjustable arm.

Still surprised by the whole thing. Maybe I got a bad batch? Who knows.... I'll be monitoring it more-so now after track days. Hell, even after a session when I'm checking brakes out, I'll look at them as well.

*sighs*

Will I do not and will not support BWR, there is nothing wrong with a design like that. At all. In fact, I'd prefer that to "standard" things because most cars are NOT factory fresh. Things move, more than you would suspect. Being able to trim some material and get a proper fit is not a bad idea.

I still find this whole thing retarded as there is nothing wrong with washers and extended bolts. heh.
Retarded indeed....lesson learned.

The way the OP is describing the part, it sounds like to get any more negative camber, you will need to cut the control arm.. Which is just stupid. That's not proper fitment..

The whole washers/extended bolts is only for reducing negative camber while using the stock upper arm. Which if you want better performance and tuning, you will want something adjustable and that will be able to give you a high amount of negative camber. So the stock arm and washers will not do the trick...

This is the best picture I could find that might be related to what the OP is talking about. I'm assuming the etched lines in the arm are what he is describing as the cutting points.


Just for comparison, a pic of my Ingalls rear arms
You've got your arms mixed up there bud, haha. This is for the rear upper camber arm, not control arm. And yes, you are correct your ingalls arm is very similar to the BWR camber arm. Think of a longer hex nut (the adjustable part of the camber arm) and think of one side has etchings...only one side. That's what you cut off.

I'll try to get some pics for everyone, feeling dumb discussing this w/out photos is annoying for you guys I'm sure.
 

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You've got your arms mixed up there bud, haha. This is for the rear upper camber arm, not control arm. And yes, you are correct your ingalls arm is very similar to the BWR camber arm. Think of a longer hex nut (the adjustable part of the camber arm) and think of one side has etchings...only one side. That's what you cut off.

I'll try to get some pics for everyone, feeling dumb discussing this w/out photos is annoying for you guys I'm sure.
Rear upper arm IS the upper control arm but everyone calls it a camber arm. Which since the stock front and rear upper control arms are not adjustable, they are not called camber arms.. Hence why the lower control arm is called "lower".

All the rear upper control arms are badically the same. The biggest differences are just the type of bushings used and how much adjustment you can get, or how much of the arm is threaded for adjustment.. Either way, I still wouldn't buy anything BWR, even a simple arm like this, which if what you're saying is correct, they can't even get that right..
 
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