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Discussion Starter · #461 ·
Well now that the timing belt is on and tension is set, I’m more inclined to experiment with all the different bolt loosening techniques. I didn’t want to mess with it before since I needed it tight to spin the crank. I’ll have a go at it tonight or tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #464 ·
Okay well I guess I was ordering parts while smoking crack again because this Jegs kit doesn’t have the right adapter size. Not sure how I overlooked that. Oh well.
I found M14x1.25 threaded rod and nuts on eBay. I’ll thread the rod into the crank, put the Jegs damper installer on, then a washer and a nut, then butt up two nuts at the end of the rod. I’ll hold the nuts on the end of the rod with a wrench and when I spin the other nut down it’ll press the damper on. In theory. The kit will still come in handy when I need to pull the damper, although the steps will be a little different. Expected delivery is Oct 28 - Nov 3 so I guess I’ll move on to finishing the pump hanger while I wait.
 

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Discussion Starter · #468 ·

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Discussion Starter · #469 ·
I bought some 1” ID washers but the OD is a little too big for what I need (don’t want to crush the timing belt guide plate). But two washers stacked up is exactly 1/4” so if I can grind one down I should be able to make it work.
I also ordered -10 AN hose and fittings to set up my catch can. I found some stuff at Pegasus that was cheaper than most of the Russell and Earl’s offerings and it was in stock. We’ll see about the quality when it gets delivered. Still need to buy a bench vise and some soft jaws and also grab a set on AN wrenches, or at least -10, -8, and -6.
Planning out the new fuel setup and it seems like using an on rail regulator will be a lot easier to plumb but of course the Honda specific Aeromotive unit is $100 more. Also trying to figure out where to mount the flex fuel sensor and filter. Once the stock filter is removed I can fab a plate to bolt in that spot and attach stuff to it. I figured I might as well add a sample port there as well just in case. Going to get some more weekend drives in before I pull the motor for good this winter. Hopefully I can sell the old motor locally and recoup some money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #470 ·
https://flic.kr/p/2mw8X52 Got most of the rust off the top of the fuel hanger. I’m going to get it down bare, then etch prime it, then hit it with 2k clear whenever I do mine and my wife’s headlights. The inside I’m not going to touch as it’s galvanized other than the little spots where I cut/sanded.

https://flic.kr/p/2mw6AyY Went back over the alt stay and got tired of sanding around this stud…

https://flic.kr/p/2mw8X57 So I hacked it off. Got it looking much better now.
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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More shiny stuff 😃 that engine compartment is going to glow on a bright day, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #474 ·
More shiny stuff 😃 that engine compartment is going to glow on a bright day, lol.
I’m hoping it goes as fast as it will look.

Clutch ordered today from Whoopee Doo. Action 2MD 6 puck.
My flywheel has a bit of surface rust from sitting for a decade so I’ll get into cleaning that up. If it’s pitted and too far gone I’ll have to get something new.
Etch primed the fuel pump hanger. Just waiting for a nice weekend to get the 2K clear applied. Last weekend was gorgeous but humidity was 97% so I didn’t want to spray in the damp air.
Intake manifold should be shipping soon, then it’ll get shipped right off to Cole for porting and TB matching to 70mm. Still need a throttle body and TPS and I should be all set to drop the motor in once the old one comes out. Still planning to get it back up and running for Spring 2022. Also gathering parts for the fuel system to hopefully get that done during the winter, then 2022 will be motor/clutch break in and saving for the turbo kit/trans rebuild. This winter I’m also planning to pull the blower motor/heater core and relocate the battery/add a cutoff switch.
 

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You know that the 2MD is unsprung right? She's going to be violent on engagement. I opted for the 2MS, which honestly is still pretty violent but no chatter. It has never slipped with my set up at over 300 whp
 

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Discussion Starter · #477 ·
https://flic.kr/p/2myESku Clutch came today. This thing is going to be a monster.

I got the fuel system all figured out, I just need to order the parts. I’m currently planning out the battery relocation right now. Battery and box will be in the trunk, feed to the starter/fuse box will go through a 150A circuit breaker and a Moroso 74101 cutoff switch, and I’m going to run a new line straight from the alternator to the battery through an 80A fuse. I have 30 some odd feet of 2 AWG cable already so that’s what I’m using. I’m going to use the stock battery for now and probably switch to an AGM or Lithium Ion in the future but the latter requires a whole new charger so I’m not in any rush to spend $500+ on that.
I have a million things to do but right now I’m just waiting on shipping and funds (what else is new)
 

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Discussion Starter · #478 ·
https://flic.kr/p/2mz6tdz OE oil pump studs replaced with 30mm stainless units.

https://flic.kr/p/2mz6tdu Oil pan bolted down using Downstar stainless hardware. Main seal housing studs replaced with bolts.

I got my Covid booster on Friday and feel like smashed ass, so the pan is all I got done today.
 
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