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93 Civic HB SI, 95 Civic HB CX
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https://flic.kr/p/2mnYC6i Oil pressure sender has tons of room.

https://flic.kr/p/2mo2bcK Fan switch is in.

https://flic.kr/p/2mnXonw D17 coils mocked up with angle aluminum in place. Looks promising, though the mounting angle is not an easy 90°
Getting closer everyday
Sender looks great!

If you use flat stock instead of 90 degree angle, you can angle the flat any way you choose against the cover, run some temporary nuts and bolts through the coils and the flatstock, then tack it in place at the angle you need!

If I ever go COP, this is what I'm doing :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #442 ·
Yeah that might be an easier option. I started thinking maybe get a piece of 1/2” round aluminum rod and drill/thread 4 standoffs that could be tacked to the flat section, that way I could use one M6 bolt per coil and not have to worry about a nut on the other end.
Several vendors make solutions but they’re all like $60 and up. I could do a nice clean version with $10 in materials.
 

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Discussion Starter · #448 ·
D Series Coil Plate

View attachment 139530

yeah, its pricey, but look how simply it is to design. dont work so hard lol
When it comes time to buy the Burton COP kit, if I haven’t figured out a mounting option by then I’ll probably just add one of these to my cart and be done with it.

why not a d17 valve cover?
I thought about that but the D17 cover forces you to route the COP plugs up and over the valve cover and also plug the dipstick hole (which isn’t that difficult really). Plus I already have a vented Z6 vented cover so I’m going to run with what I’ve got.
 

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Discussion Starter · #449 ·
https://flic.kr/p/2mrSRHJ Damper came in.
Heading to the u-pull-it tomorrow. 17 Civics on the yard so hopefully I can find some stuff I can use.
Made some progress on modding my spare pump hanger for the AN fittings but my Dremel lock pin shit the bed. Ordered replacement bits and some new brushes on Amazon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #451 ·
https://flic.kr/p/2msH9qi Timing belt installed and tensioned. Spun it around like 10 times because I’m so paranoid. Also, I don’t have an upper rear timing cover so I just aligned the horizontal marks on the cam gear flush with the head. I’m going to order a cover and probably pull this all apart and install it so I don’t have to guess again in the future. Still not sure it’s 100% right. I emailed Jason Whitfield for some guidance, just waiting to hear back from him. Also, I wound up torquing the crank bolt on so I could set tension without the bolt backing out and the problem is now I can’t get the bolt out to install the guide plate and lower cover. And I don’t have a flywheel installed, nor can I squeeze one in between the block and the engine stand, so I think I’m going to go buy an electric impact some time this week. It’s not like I won’t use it again and again. I’ve also got to get a kit to install the ATI damper. Summit has one that includes the M14x1.50 adapter I need so I’ll get that ordered soon. Probably a good idea to grab the Honda flywheel holder tool as well.

https://flic.kr/p/2msLQ1b Mocking up the gauge layout. I’m going to figure out a way to get these wired up so it’s easily removable if I ever need to pull the whole thing out. Maybe some OEM Honda connectors and pins, male and female, to make quick disconnects. I’m thinking about making a fuse/relay board so I can give them all switched power from a clean source and have one spot to go to when I need to check for blown fuses.

First snow of the year and I’ll get cracking on pulling the old motor. I’m scouring. Craigslist for an engine hoist, hopefully one that breaks down a bit to make storage a little easier. I also placed another order with Downstar for the remaining bolts I’ll need to finish the post mount and everything on the intake manifold. Getting closer every day.
 

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https://flic.kr/p/2msH9qi Timing belt installed and tensioned. Spun it around like 10 times because I’m so paranoid. Also, I don’t have an upper rear timing cover so I just aligned the horizontal marks on the cam gear flush with the head. I’m going to order a cover and probably pull this all apart and install it so I don’t have to guess again in the future. Still not sure it’s 100% right. I emailed Jason Whitfield for some guidance, just waiting to hear back from him. Also, I wound up torquing the crank bolt on so I could set tension without the bolt backing out and the problem is now I can’t get the bolt out to install the guide plate and lower cover. And I don’t have a flywheel installed, nor can I squeeze one in between the block and the engine stand, so I think I’m going to go buy an electric impact some time this week. It’s not like I won’t use it again and again. I’ve also got to get a kit to install the ATI damper. Summit has one that includes the M14x1.50 adapter I need so I’ll get that ordered soon. Probably a good idea to grab the Honda flywheel holder tool as well.

https://flic.kr/p/2msLQ1b Mocking up the gauge layout. I’m going to figure out a way to get these wired up so it’s easily removable if I ever need to pull the whole thing out. Maybe some OEM Honda connectors and pins, male and female, to make quick disconnects. I’m thinking about making a fuse/relay board so I can give them all switched power from a clean source and have one spot to go to when I need to check for blown fuses.

First snow of the year and I’ll get cracking on pulling the old motor. I’m scouring. Craigslist for an engine hoist, hopefully one that breaks down a bit to make storage a little easier. I also placed another order with Downstar for the remaining bolts I’ll need to finish the post mount and everything on the intake manifold. Getting closer every day.
We did similar things today lol, timing belt related!

This engine is looking so good!
 

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Discussion Starter · #454 ·

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Discussion Starter · #455 ·
I ordered a Skunk2 intake manifold today. Once that shows up I’ll get it over to Cole for porting and hogging out the throttle inlet to 70mm. I also ordered some silicone caps to block the old IACV coolant nipples on the water pipe and intake manifold. I’m going to order a Skunk2 70mm throttle body soon and also grab a new TPS, that way the motor will be pretty much ready to drop in over the winter. For now I’m going to bolt the old trans back up for engine break in/shakedown. Undecided if I should go ahead and do the clutch while it’s apart. I was eyeing the Action 2MD 4 puck and I’d love to break it in at the same time as I’m breaking in the motor, two birds with one stone and all. First baby is due in November so I think this project will inevitably slow down a bit but I’ll keep plugging away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #456 ·
https://flic.kr/p/2mtWPEx New timing cover showed up. I pulled the belt and trimmed the cover to fit.

https://flic.kr/p/2mtWPEc Cam gear lined up.


https://flic.kr/p/2mu5Avn Crank at TDC.

https://flic.kr/p/2mu5Av7 Belt back on and tensioned.

https://flic.kr/p/2mu1Vzj Lower cover opened up a bit to clear the ATI damper. Once I figure out how to back the crank bolt out, I’ll slap the degree wheel on and make sure everything is where it should be. Once that’s done I’ll get the damper installed. Already ordered an install kit from Jeg’s.
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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2 flywheel bolts in next to eachother, run one in all the way, the other about half way, 12pt box end on the one all the way in with the wrench handle braced against the half way in bolt to hold the crank, most engine stands but not all have the clearance to do it that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #458 ·
2 flywheel bolts in next to eachother, run one in all the way, the other about half way, 12pt box end on the one all the way in with the wrench handle braced against the half way in bolt to hold the crank, most engine stands but not all have the clearance to do it that way.
I will give this a try. I can’t have torqued the crank bolt on too tight, as I was only using an 18v cordless drill. I need to get that bolt loose soon though, because this showed up:

https://flic.kr/p/2muKejf Jegs harmonic balancer install kit. ATI wants $189 for their kit which is not only out of stock but doesn’t include the M14 adapter I need. This kit was $63. I also got some oil fittings.

https://flic.kr/p/2muMHF2 I want to locate the AutoMeter oil pressure sender on the firewall, so this is an 1/8 NPT to -3AN fitting, a 24” -3AN line, and a -3AN to 1/8 NPT gauge fitting. Moving the sender to the passenger firewall will make running the wires easier and make it easier to get to if needed.
 

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Bro, if you really dont think its tight, just barely enough to pull back off by hand, put a ratchet and socket on the crank bolt, stage it to loosen, put a small pipe on the end of the ratchet for extra leverage, put welding gloves on and karate chop the end of the pipe like Bruce Lee!

Entertainment Event Recreation Fun Flash photography


Become your own impact lol
 
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