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Discussion Starter · #426 ·
https://flic.kr/p/2mkUGWB Started cleaning up the Z1 alt bracket. I’m not going to polish this piece because the casting is so rough it would take me forever to sand it smooth. It’s also on the bottom of the motor so it won’t really be visible.

https://flic.kr/p/2mkVQfy I did start polishing the thermostat cover though. I knocked most of the casting marks off and sanded out most of the low spots. I started with 150 grit and I’m all out of paper up to 600 so I need to hit the hardware store and grab some 320 to keep going. I did a quick polish pass to make it easier to see the scratches I still need to work on.

https://flic.kr/p/2mkS779 And I got the dipstick installed.

Still need to get pics of the intake ports for you guys. I’m going to tackle the head studs and get the head bolted on tomorrow or Saturday. I’ve been second guessing using the Cometic .030” MLS gasket that I have but I’m just going to send it. If she blows then she blows and I’ll just figure out another solution.
Heading out for a drive later tonight since it’s so nice outside. The hurricane blew in some gorgeous weather.
 

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Discussion Starter · #427 ·

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Discussion Starter · #429 ·
https://flic.kr/p/2mmbN1L Holes cleaned out, deck wiped clean, and studs installed.

https://flic.kr/p/2mmbN1R The Cometic gasket I’m using.

https://flic.kr/p/2mmfCvK Gasket laid down. I had to use the front two dowel holes…

https://flic.kr/p/2mmkF5X …because I can’t use the back two.

https://flic.kr/p/2mmjxLp Torqued down to 20-40-60. This is how it’s going to get boosted. If it holds, it holds. If not, then I’ll sort it out. Slapped on my old valve cover to keep the dust out. I also torqued the cam gear bolt to 27 pounds. The cam is 180° out right now and I can’t spin it so it’s possible I have a rocker binding up. I’ll crack it open again at some point and double check the cam install. Timing belt will go on once I can get the cam to TDC. Motor won’t go in until I put the car away for winter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #431 ·
Paint job I did 10+ years ago. I tried to replicate Army digital camo so I used graph paper to cut shapes from painters tape and layered three different colors of spray paint.
That reminds me I still need to figure out some type of finish for the vented valve cover I will ultimately be using. I was thinking of getting it powder coated white and finding a place that can hydro dip the DC Metro map on it.
Map for reference:
https://www.wmata.com/schedules/maps/upload/2021-Inauguration-System-Map.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter · #432 ·
https://flic.kr/p/2mmJ9sm Just ordered this oil pressure gauge. More expensive than I wanted but it’s got programmable warning which will come in super handy. I wanted to go ahead and get it now so I can get the sender installed/oriented while the block is out of the car. I’ll be getting a GregParts radio delete and stuffing this gauge in there along with my WBO2 and my old AutoMeter boost gauge.

I also bought a Comp Cams 9” degree wheel and Summit Racing dial indicator w/ magnetic base.
 

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https://flic.kr/p/2mmSMno K-Tuned oil adapter mounted up. I’ll likely move the OPS to the right, mount the AutoMeter sender to the left, install oil feed out the back, and then plug the bottom port. This thing is pretty trick. Hopefully it holds up.
What does your oil pressure gauge sender look like? Is it slim and light? Or the big bell type?

What were your thoughts on the whole ktuned assembly once you had it fully assembled in your hands? I found it to be really heavy overall.

Because of that, I'm personally not going to run this spacer:

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Instead, I cleaned the face of the oil pressure sender block boss with some scotchbrite till it was nice, smooth and clean, then turned the straight BSPT fitting in till it touched the o-ring, then tightened the jamb nut against the boss.

The spacer is nice, but it makes the assembly pretty long and heavy. I'm always weary of things that put a lot of torque or leverage on the OPS hole. When the engine snaps back during hard shifting, anything long threaded into that hole acts like a lever under moment inertia from the snapback. I've seen things snap off, threads pull out, or the boss physically cracks over time.

I only needed 3 ports from the takeoff, one for the turbo oil pressure supply, and the other for the digital sender, and the one pointing straight out for the stock switch. The port facing the oil filter gets the plug. There was barely enough room for the digital sender, but it all worked out without needing the spacer:

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Anything to help reduce tangential velocity of that assembly will help reduce block stresses :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #435 ·
I won’t have the AutoMeter sender in my hands until Friday. I wasn’t even aware I could run it without the spacer but now that I think about it it makes sense. I was kinda wondering what sense the jamb nut made when it didn’t even touch the block! The whole assembly is heavy and that did have me worried that I’d wind up ripping it out of the block somehow. If I don’t have room for the sender I can always 90° off the adapter and firewall mount the sender. I’ll fiddle with it some time this week. Thanks for the tip!
 

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I won’t have the AutoMeter sender in my hands until Friday. I wasn’t even aware I could run it without the spacer but now that I think about it it makes sense. I was kinda wondering what sense the jamb nut made when it didn’t even touch the block! The whole assembly is heavy and that did have me worried that I’d wind up ripping it out of the block somehow. If I don’t have room for the sender I can always 90° off the adapter and firewall mount the sender. I’ll fiddle with it some time this week. Thanks for the tip!
I found out that there were 2 versions made of this ktuned adapter.

The first version was exactly like you have without the spacer. Second version simply added a spacer due to a need for oil cooler and VTEC solenoid clearance on the K series:

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To use the jamb nut, you only get MAYBE 1 turn out of it to butt up against the block, because there is an oring between the jamb nut and the adapter body. Going too far will allow the oring unseat from the adapter body.

If you thread the jamb nut all the way in against the adapter, then thread the adapter into the block till the jamb nut oring on the face touches the OPS boss, just take 2 wrenches, hold the adapter from moving, and loosen the jamb nut from the adapter to squish the jamb nut face oring against the block. It should snug up completely with only 1/8 to 1/4 turn.

Once snug, that thing is a great solution for oil takeoff at the OPS hole!
 

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Discussion Starter · #437 ·
https://flic.kr/p/2mnpV9f
https://flic.kr/p/2mnuThD Got back to polishing the thermostat cover. Pretty close to being done. I think another few minutes with my softest buff and it should be ready to go.

https://flic.kr/p/2mntLWP
https://flic.kr/p/2mnpVax I was curious to see if the alternator stay would polish up and surprisingly it does fairly well. It will take some more work but it should turn out nice.

https://flic.kr/p/2mnrban I’m planning on going COP eventually and started thinking about an easy way to mount the coils. I think a piece of angle aluminum with either bushings/bolts or welded on tabs would probably be a cheap solution and would only require minimal welding to get it attached to the valve cover. And while I’m at the welder I’ll see about getting the stock breather port welded shut/blended in. I ordered some Denso D17 coils today so I can work on getting that figured out. I also got a few cheap oil filters ($1.31 each!) for engine break in and snagged a fan switch as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #438 ·
https://flic.kr/p/2mnFHnu Coolant temp sensor installed.

https://flic.kr/p/2mnFHnp Dizzy mocked up and thermostat cover/thermostat installed.

https://flic.kr/p/2mnAzzj Spacer removed from K-Tuned oil adapter and mating surface sanded smooth. I got it clocked how I want it now and attached the oil pressure sender, then blocked the top port. It looks like I’ll have plenty of room for the AutoMeter sender on the left side and no issues getting the oil feed installed as it will come straight out of the back.

https://flic.kr/p/2mnJfvJ Alt stay mocked up just for fun. I may just leave it as is rather than fuss with trying to polish it any further. Then again…
 

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https://flic.kr/p/2mnFHnu Coolant temp sensor installed.

https://flic.kr/p/2mnFHnp Dizzy mocked up and thermostat cover/thermostat installed.

https://flic.kr/p/2mnAzzj Spacer removed from K-Tuned oil adapter and mating surface sanded smooth. I got it clocked how I want it now and attached the oil pressure sender, then blocked the top port. It looks like I’ll have plenty of room for the AutoMeter sender on the left side and no issues getting the oil feed installed as it will come straight out of the back.

https://flic.kr/p/2mnJfvJ Alt stay mocked up just for fun. I may just leave it as is rather than fuss with trying to polish it any further. Then again…
Looking sweet!
 
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