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Discussion Starter · #262 ·
What are your power goals? Making progress! You're in VA right? If you're near the central NC border, you could borrow my timesert kit to go 11mm studded if you want, when the time comes.
My short term goal is/was 350 but when it comes time to buy the Go Autoworks turbo kit, I'll likely opt for a turbo that will be capable of 500+ so it'll really just come down to how well I plan my supporting mods. I'm actually in Maryland now but close enough to NC that I would definitely drive down there to take you up on the offer. Head lift is about the only thing I'm scared of at this point! I'd hate to dump this much time/cash into this motor and immediately run into issues. I'm hoping CSS and o-ring with the bigger studs should negate any issues, but if that fails I'm just going to go K24/K20.

Hey, at least if you can't find your keeper you got some folding mirrors, those things are tits!
Thanks! I can't believe I waited this long to finally pull the trigger. They're heavy as fuck but compared to the Spoon reps, I can see SO much more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #263 ·
https://flic.kr/p/2kuXez3 I hit the junkyard this morning and scooped up an OEM 99-00 bumper and headlights. I couldn’t find any good fenders and I couldn’t fit a hood into my RDX. The grill is cracked but I’m going to source an EM1 grill anyway. Now I have an excuse to buy a CF hood and fenders. I’ve also been eyeing a J Blood bumper but it’s expensive as fuck.
 

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Just PM me when your at that point, and I'm sure we can work on a time to meet up. I'm about 5 hours from MD though, but there are some good driving roads around here for reward haha. You'll have to buy your own inserts, I used the 10 that came in the set, but a refill pack of 10 is only like 35 bucks.
 

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I’m in va also!
 
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Discussion Starter · #266 ·
Are you planning on going to H Day @ MIR in April? Maybe we can form a DSO posse
 

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Discussion Starter · #267 ·
Ferrea 5000 intake/exhaust valves and BC springs/retainers were shipped today from Real Street. I emailed Performance Porting last week and was quoted $1,220 for stage 3 port/polish and valve job/guide/seal install. Dustin said he could source the parts cheaper than I can so I’ll be sending the head off as soon as I can.

I’m going with the Zex 59300 cam and a Whitfield cam gear, but those will have to wait until February or March. I really should have won the lottery because it would have made this build much easier.

Either the block or the trans will be up next. Really no order because I just don’t have the cash on hand so I have to wait.

Funny enough, my wife was bitching that I spend so much on my car, but I’ve banked $42k in my retirement savings over the last three years. Maybe she’ll be on board with eating ramen for 12 months while I finish this fucking build?
 

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Discussion Starter · #268 ·
https://flic.kr/p/2kwhMqE My driver door panel had a crack in it so I laid down some epoxy tonight. Hopefully it’s enough to keep it from getting worse.

https://flic.kr/p/2kwhMp2 The headlights I got from the junkyard look like this, so I’ll get to work polishing them up. Projector retrofit will go in eventually, sooner if I have to crack them open to polish the inside of the lens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #269 ·
https://flic.kr/p/2kwn4vB I unwrapped the block, pulled the bearings/thrust washers, and did another inspection. I’ll probably oil it down and wrap it up again until I’m ready to send it out. The main bolts are really rusty so I’m going to just order new ones from Honda.
 

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Discussion Starter · #270 ·
https://flic.kr/p/2kwmL1a https://flic.kr/p/2kwi5vB Kinda funny, the passenger headlight I pulled from the junkyard is from another junkyard, HAP Auto Recycling in California.

https://flic.kr/p/2kwnimn I found this engraved on my block on the tranny side. Anybody ever seen this? I don’t think it’s OEM but it looks somewhat professional. Definitely wasn’t scratched in by hand with a screwdriver.
 

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Usually they are near the deck surface, but those are your OE crank main bearing sizes. The OE repair manuals explain more about it.

Honda had common bearing sizes in bins marked with letters on assembly line, so after machine work to the cranks and block line boring, bores and journals were measured and their differences equated to a bearing thickness.

Once a measurement was performed, the difference between them would match one of the sizes of bearings, and a corresponding bin letter.

The letters are read normally, left to right, but I cant remember if the first letter starts at the first main bearing on the flywheel side or the timing belt side. Your service manual will show and explain which direction they are read.

Then once the block was marked with the letters/sizes, the dude actually putting the bearings in the block and main caps would know exactly which bins to grab from, and place them in the correct order. Then crank gets put in, lubed, and main caps torqued.

And on down the line it goes...
 

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Discussion Starter · #272 ·
Awesome! I had a hunch that it might have something to do with main bearing sizes but I couldn’t figure out how the letters corresponded since Honda uses colors for the different sizes. Good info!
 

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Discussion Starter · #273 ·

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Awesome! I had a hunch that it might have something to do with main bearing sizes but I couldn’t figure out how the letters corresponded since Honda uses colors for the different sizes. Good info!
Here ya go, pulled this out of alldata for my Y8, but the theory is similar for other engines as well. This is where the colors come from and how they fit into the mix as well:

Screenshot_20210128-191602_Chrome.jpg



Screenshot_20210128-191623_Chrome.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #275 ·
https://flic.kr/p/2kxNfCM It snowed here. It’s supposed to snow this weekend too. I should have sent out my S300 for the upgrade since I haven’t driven the Civic in two weeks and won’t again this weekend.

I got the EDM mirrors on and pulled the NRG quick release and installed the NRG race quick release, so no more horn. I’m tired of trying to make the flush horn button work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #277 ·
https://flic.kr/p/2kyrYCs
https://flic.kr/p/2kyoooo
I started making spreadsheets to figure out what I still need to buy/what it has cost me. Spoiler alert, it’s expensive. I bought a separated short block so I’m missing some key items like oil pan, pickup, and dizzy. But even if I had bought a compete motor, I’d still be replacing most of the bolts/dowels/gaskets anyway. And a lot of stuff is discontinued so I’ll either have to rehab what I have or scour eBay/junkyards for the rest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #279 ·
If you need help buying parts from the US, I’d be glad to help out. I’d take Four’n Twenty meat pies and bootleg Melbourne Bounce mixes in trade.

https://flic.kr/p/2kyLKGk I started polishing my VTEC solenoid out of boredom. Here it is as I received it, with silver paint.

https://flic.kr/p/2kyGwNP I sanded down the casting marks and chamfered the edges.


https://flic.kr/p/2kyGwNJ Started to polish the corners to see what it would look like.

https://flic.kr/p/2kyLKG5 Should turn out pretty nice. I need to order more polishing wools for my Dremel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #280 ·
https://flic.kr/p/2kz4xGt I filed, sanded, and polished some more tonight, then I used a Sharpie so I can find the low spots and finish sanding them out. New polishing felts will be here tomorrow.

Head should get sent out this coming week. Doing the taxes this weekend so we’ll see if we get any cash back to pay for more go fast parts.
 
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