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Discussion Starter #181
I almost feel bad doing it but it means no emissions testing, so I save $15 every two years, and I don’t need a $79 safety inspection.
 

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93 Civic HB SI
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tried to put a 93 truck in my name here and the bitch at the license desk said it has to be appraised ,,I'm like it's in a pasture and has no motor??fuck off
You should just hand her the receipt for the gas it took you to go to her office, and say I'm actually upside down on this truck now.
 

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Discussion Starter #184
https://flic.kr/p/2jpe7ia Cleaned up the ECU end of the harness. I had cut some of the cable ties out while chasing my injector issue.

https://flic.kr/p/2jpbk29 Bolt Boys strut nuts installed, and I removed some rear seat support brackets.

https://flic.kr/p/2jpbjJW I’m contemplating cutting out all of the brackets for the rear seats, trunk board, and spare tire. Would look much cleaner.
 

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Discussion Starter #185
I’ve been waiting for so long for my HardRace RTA bushings to ship and now with the possibility of getting my title/tags next week, I’m getting a little impatient. So I started looking at other options and I’m at the point that I’m willing to pay the $260 for the PCI spherical RTAs. But when I went to buy some today, I found that they’re out of stock until August 1st. I just had to laugh about that.
 

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Discussion Starter #187
Picked up my tags today! Total cost was $189 and the registration is good for two years.

Whichever set of RTA bushings get here first are going on the car. Then I’ll need to connect the parking brake lines, bleed the brakes, drop the car and tighten up all the suspension bolts, install the ECU/S300, upload a basemap, set idle and timing, and then take it out on the street to bed the brakes. Then it will need an alignment. Getting close now boys!!
 

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Discussion Starter #188
https://flic.kr/p/2jqyRAZ Tie rods are in and torqued/pinned. Not really sure why I pinned them as I still need an alignment.

https://flic.kr/p/2jqyRBk Timing light came in from Amazon. It’s there on the bench, I swear. I spent about 15 minutes demonstrating it to my wife. She didn’t seem as impressed as I was.

I ordered some more bolts from Bolt Boys the other day. Went I went to replace one of the driver side post studs on Thursday night, it started spinning. So I ordered two new studs from the local dealership on Friday. The price was stupid ridiculous, but they should be here tomorrow.

And my PCI order shipped today. So I expect a set of RTA bushings by Friday, one way or another.
 

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Discussion Starter #190
https://flic.kr/p/2jr8DJZ Awkward as fuck but it works. I had to use a USB extension cable to connect the ECU and the PC and monitor sucked up both plugs on my only garage outlet, so I was stuck with no fan or radio. Uploaded the stock D16Z6 map, started her up, and idled her up to temp. No leaks or worrisome noises other than some ticking from the head. The fan is kicking on right around 199 and the needle is right in the middle. Car idles smooth, although a little high at around 900, but then after 3-4 minutes, started wanting to die every 30 seconds or so. The idle dips down but it doesn’t stall and doesn’t race back up. I’ve got no DTC/CEL and all sensors are reporting and in spec. I sprayed some brake cleaner around the IACV, TB, and IM gasket but couldn’t make the idle jump. Was going to keep fucking around with it and try to set the timing but It’s hot as fuck in the garage and smells like exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter #191
https://flic.kr/p/2jrNgrT Installed new post studs. The front stud didn’t have enough room for the beauty washer, so no washer it is.

Started the car again tonight, idle issue is the same. Pulled the IACV plug and now the car won’t start w/o it. So, back to troubleshooting. Worst case, I’ll block off the IAC port and then set my base idle to 1,300 and tighten my throttle stop. Best case, I’ll clean the bypass port and order a new TB gasket and IACV and install those properly and then set the idle per the factory service manual.
Either way, I am driving this car on the street before 2020 is over.
 

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Discussion Starter #193
Thanks man. It’s been frustrating but fun.

Messed around with the idle today. I put the P2P back in and couldn’t get the idle to hunt, so I know it’s not a mechanical issue. I put the P06 back in and played around with the IAC duty cycle. It still hunts a little bit but doesn’t try to stall out when I left off the throttle. I’ll work on setting the timing this week.
 

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Discussion Starter #194
Timing is set. I used the Hondata settings from the other day, got her up to temp, and with the idle smoothed (mostly) out, set timing @ 12°
Even w/ the occasional idle hunting, it returns to the middle crank notch when idle smooths, so I know I’m dead on. I need to set the valve lash next. The head was purchased used and installed (10+ years ago) w/o ever setting lash, so it’s due. I already have a spare VC gasket, a tube of Hondabond, and three valve covers to choose from.
Otherwise, I’m just waiting for RTA bushings now. I might try to find a set of Civic trailing arms this weekend and just buy the Scarebird brackets to install the rear discs.
 

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Discussion Starter #195
https://flic.kr/p/2juUkec Picked up a driver side fender from the yard on Saturday. Wrong color but it’s damn near mint. I’m trying to replace my Password JDM fenders that fit like shit. I found a teg and was going to pull the rear trailing arms but it’s was hot and I was feeling pretty lazy. Didn’t get out there until 2 PM. May try again next weekend
 

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Discussion Starter #196
https://flic.kr/p/2jvpQLC I made a front plate bracket out of angle aluminum and got it mounted.

I downloaded a “D16Y8 basemap” from the Hondata forums and uploaded it to the ECU. It’s essentially a P28 map with everything disabled in misc parameters, idle speed set to 1100 RPM, and some tweaks to VTEC engagement. I set the idle on that map to 950 and adjusted my idle screw and it idles WAY better now. No more hunting. It’s still richer than Jeff Bezos but we can work on that once I procure a WBO2
 
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