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Discussion Starter #1
I got some questions about building a mini swap
I have a d16z6 head and a d16y7 block and everything to convert it to VTEC it will be a fully built block and head with all the good stuff Brian Crower springs, Darton sleeved, Brian Crower z6 stage 2 turbo cam, foraged rods, foraged pistons, z6 crank, and will be balanced, ported and polished ect ect and will be boosted. When im done with the engine I have to do the break in procedure (without the turbo) for the engines saftey. So my questions are do I need a tune with all that in there especially with the z6 stage 2 cam? and if I dont should I be okay running stock fuel pump, injectors manifold and throttle body from a 97 DX just for the break in period? Or can I stick to running an Edelbrock intake manifold and ITR TB and stock fuel pump and injectors? And will my low compression be okay too? This is my first build im a newbie i've checked the forums and got nothing. I could really use your help.

Thanks in advance!
 

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First things first, if you're going all out building an engine, you should probably start wih a Z6 block instead of the y7. I'm sure good things can be done with the y7, but failures are much more common.
As for your tune you can probably get by using your stage 2 cam and stock fueling for the break in, just don't get too crazy on it.
You haven't said anything about your piston and rod combo so we can't help you on your compression.

After all that, my answer should probably really have been: "Search the forum and browse the build threads for a few weeks" once you get a feel for what has been done and works successfully you will be better prepared for the journey ahead.
 

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The d16y7 block is perfectly fine to use. He stated he is using a d16z6 crankshaft.

the y7/y8 oil pumps work just fine as well, if that was another concern. Clean it up with a dremel to remove a few small edges if worried, else shim it to get a little extra pressure.

When the block is being built, the oil pump NEEDS to be inspected anyways. Worst case, it gets a new y7/y8 oil pump. A little trick for better oiling, countersink a very shallow "dimple" in the center top of each oil pump tooth. Where your thumb would be on a guitar pick, for a visual. This will help keep oil "sticking" to the gear side for a little extra efficiency.

Not sure why breaking it in on the stock parts/ecu is so important. The boost form the turbo will help make the process faster, plus once you put the turbo on after breaking in factory style, its gonna want to scuff the rings harder anyways. I do understand reducing the hazard chance though!!

Find a competent tuner, and you wont have any worries. Dyno break-ins are great, you can force various loads and speeds, creating a very nice datalog.

Bring 4-5 oil changes worth of filters and fluids. Be prepared to adjust valve lash, and make sure all your sensors are working PROPERLY. throw some extra ground wires on it, if the factory ones are looking tired.

Nothing slows down a tuner more than things not producing the data he/she needs to accurately tune!
 
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Discussion Starter #4
The d16y7 block is perfectly fine to use. He stated he is using a d16z6 crankshaft.

the y7/y8 oil pumps work just fine as well, if that was another concern. Clean it up with a dremel to remove a few small edges if worried, else shim it to get a little extra pressure.

When the block is being built, the oil pump NEEDS to be inspected anyways. Worst case, it gets a new y7/y8 oil pump. A little trick for better oiling, countersink a very shallow "dimple" in the center top of each oil pump tooth. Where your thumb would be on a guitar pick, for a visual. This will help keep oil "sticking" to the gear side for a little extra efficiency.

Not sure why breaking it in on the stock parts/ecu is so important. The boost form the turbo will help make the process faster, plus once you put the turbo on after breaking in factory style, its gonna want to scuff the rings harder anyways. I do understand reducing the hazard chance though!!

Find a competent tuner, and you wont have any worries. Dyno break-ins are great, you can force various loads and speeds, creating a very nice datalog.

Bring 4-5 oil changes worth of filters and fluids. Be prepared to adjust valve lash, and make sure all your sensors are working PROPERLY. throw some extra ground wires on it, if the factory ones are looking tired.

Nothing slows down a tuner more than things not producing the data he/she needs to accurately tune!
Thanks for the info, this helped me a lot thanks!!
 

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The d16y7 block is perfectly fine to use. He stated he is using a d16z6 crankshaft.

the y7/y8 oil pumps work just fine as well, if that was another concern. Clean it up with a dremel to remove a few small edges if worried, else shim it to get a little extra pressure.

When the block is being built, the oil pump NEEDS to be inspected anyways. Worst case, it gets a new y7/y8 oil pump. A little trick for better oiling, countersink a very shallow "dimple" in the center top of each oil pump tooth. Where your thumb would be on a guitar pick, for a visual. This will help keep oil "sticking" to the gear side for a little extra efficiency.
Yeah, I guess you have a point, if he's going to be having all the machine work done anyways, and using a Z6 crank, it shouldn't make much difference.
 
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