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Discussion Starter #1
My set up is
D16Z6
K&N drop in filter
59mm bored Throttle body
Edelbrock Perf X IM
Hondata IM gasket
Port and Polish Head
Comp 59300 Cam with valve springs
Fidanza 4 bolts cam gear
P29 .5mm oversize piston
DC sports 4-2-1 header with heat wrap
B&M FPR with gauge
Stock P28 ECU
Fluidyne radiator
Denso Iridium spark plugs (2 step colder)

The engine is still in break in period, normal driving feel excellent, but when I push it a little hard, engine light come on immediately, it is code 7 (TPS), does anyone has the same experience or know what happen. Is it because of the larger TB and IM, but still using stock ECU? Or my TPS has problem. Also, it seem a little bit over heat when I push hard, is it because of my spark plugs? Or nothing about them? Please help me out.
 

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All I can tell you is, if the computer is saying code 7 then simply follow the TPS flowchart in Helms or Chilton and find your problem. There isn't going to be an easy answer, its just something you have to work out. I don't quite understand the rest of your post though. Your saying the motor overheats when you push it a little? No, spark plugs won't make your motor overheat. I'd be looking at the cooling system for that....maybe you have a big air bubble in the system. Did you bleed it? If you have concerns with the spark plug heat range then go to a step colder plug and see if there is an improvement in whatever issue your having. What do your plugs look like? How far can you see that the heat is traveling down the threads of the plug? 4 to 5 threads or all the way down? Are you experiencing detonation or hesitation which leads you to feel you have a spark plug issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I am thinking of the spark plugs problem because colder spark plugs can transfer the heat faster to the cylinder head because of the shorter insulator inside the plugs, which means your engine will become hotter. I bleed the cooling system again today, so I will see if there is any improvement. I bleed it 2 times before, so I dont think it is the air bubble problem. And I use fluidyne rad, which is thick and also I use motul coolant, so suppose has much better cooling. For the TPS, since there is no any other case same as mine, so maybe I just change it and see.

Thanks
 
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are you bleeding it from the correct place? the bleeder valve on the head?
i REALLY don't think its your plugs...

q: are you running a single headgasket with that setup? what the compression on that? like 12.4:1? how do you like it? i just finished building up a 12:1 z6 im waiting to just get it on the road this weekend... :D
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am running SCE 0.62" copper head gasket, so compressor is about 11.5:1 I just change a thermostat and the rad fan switch, and bleed the coolant system again. Similar thing happen, I drive around about 1 hour on the road, and 3 times overheat at traffic light, then cool down when the car start moving. But rad fan is working. If it is not spark plugs, not thermostat, not rad fan switch, how about headgasket? How can I check it??
 
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sounds like coolant isn't getting through your system...
MIGHT be the headgasket.. is it made for the z6?
i've herd of ppl removing their termostat for awhile to fix the proplem...

if you REALLY think its the plugs. go ahead and throw some different ones you have lying around in. see if that fixes the problem.
 

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I would try a non-copper gasket, unless you are only racing the car. Copper does not always seal properly. I have heard many people having issues with coolant leaks with copper. Also when I had a copper gasket we had to constantly re-torque the head back down between races and I wasn't running coolant so the coolant issue was not a problem for me. So you may have to un-torque and re-torque several times before it seats. I would just put in another gasket in.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I fix my problem finally, the old TPS was bad, so I check change a new one, engine light haven't come on again. And for the overheat problem, it is the spark plug, I change back to heat range 6, it becomes good and stable on the temp gauge. So don't use heat range 7 plugs anytime on the d-series, make so many troble for me. Copper headgasket is more step to install compare to normal gasket, but if you know how to do it, it is not that hard and it will last longer than normal gasket. And SCE just release a new copper gasket, which is called titan, pre-oring self sealed, so don't need to do any o-ring seal by yourself again.
 
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