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Discussion Starter #22
Probably easier to crane it into the car to test fire it, just don't hook up the driveshafts. That way you can bolt it down to the engine mounts and you've already got fuel lines running to it.
Thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Some further delay, have to re-locate the entire project.
Meaning I have to shift the car, not a problem.

What I seem to be missing is the oil pick-up pipe from sump to oil pump.
Will keep searching the workshop while cleaning, but I know it was put in the boot of the car, not there now for some mysterious reason.

Are these still available new and where ? ( after market ok )
1989 Civic 1.5 ( Australia )
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Disregard Lost and now Found....
One of those, "I'll put it here so I don't forget it's there"....

On with the build .., re-locating..
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Thanks EF....

While I'm here, I was wondering how the heck am I going to shift the car no motor/gearbox attached, drive shafts dangling and no steering. But looked closer and simply re-attached the steering arms/tie-rod ends, and got steering at least to push it out backwards, down a narrow driveway and onto a trailer, just to go 5 kilometers down the road.
Where it is now has become "deceased estate", property has to be cleared, no hurry, but has to get done. Then it's at my place, not entirely out of the weather, ( no shed, just a carport )...but I've done engine changes there before, one of them being Toyota Hi-Ace van, motor had to come out from passenger door, sideways.
But the thing is, my driveway leading into the carport is down-hill slope. So it has to be backed in when on trailer, so front is facing out, nose of car at the gate of carport. Not much room, only way to work there, so the engine lifter can be maneuvered.
Motor going along steadily, still inside the house in a room, safe.
Just got put the head on, then lift on to a 4 wheel home made dolly, down the passage way, out the front door, then in front of car behind the gates.

I'll get there

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I'm about to bolt on the sump, seal it up and hope I don't have to remove it again.

But something has been bugging me ever since the torque specs on big ends say 23 ft/lb.

Whats bugging my mind is that it just does not seem tight enough, should I re-do the big-end nuts with loctite, if so what grade of loctight ?


Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I'm about to fit the head.
Before I do, have a question about the oil gallery from block to head.

In the gasket kit there were a number of smaller "O-RING" seals.

As the pictures illustrate, does the small "O-RING" go at the oil gallery between the head and block ?


( The reason I am skeptical, an experience on a Toyota Diesel , there is a oil seal, it was forgotten by a DIY owner and he had no oil pressure on test run before fitting engine onto vehicle. Turned out he forgot to put the "O-RING" seal between head and block )

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Discussion Starter #30
robgoof thats the oil restrictor plug,it should pull out and the o-ring goes around it..

It seems it was taken out when the block was re-bored and faced/machined, then re-inserted.

How does it come out ?
Should it have been re-inserted with the "o-ring" ?

Picture shows a gap between restrictor plug and block face.
 

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Meat Popsicle
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It’s the oil control orifice and it isn’t supposed to be flush with the deck.

Here’s one from a D16a6. Yours may be slightly different.



There shouldn’t be an o-ring on the top. Only one o-ring goes around the body of the orifice
 

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Discussion Starter #32
There shouldn’t be an o-ring on the top. Only one o-ring goes around the body of the orifice
Thanks..,

It's precisely what I needed to know.
It's not flush with the deck, looking at the above picture shows there is a gap, as I remember there was before machining.

I'll ask the machine shop if they put a new seal when they re-inserted the orifice.

Personally I would have preferred a brand new orifice, seeing everything else is almost new.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Ok, took the half built block to machine shop, confirmed all is OK, proceed with bolting the head.

One thing I did find out today,

The correct part for the 1.5 engine, ( oil orifice and seal ), genuine Honda has to come from USA.
lol, a US$7.00 part no bigger than ya thumb nail, would have cost US$52.00 to deliver.

$60.00 approximately.

Genuine Honda head gasket, AU$180.00 !

wtf !
 

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I had a freight forwarding address i used when building my EF. Most american suppliers had free continental shipping to the forwarding address, they'd consolidate the packages for a fee and then send it to oz with competitive rates.

I used shipito. Only really worth it if you're buying a few things, and this was before the government decided to lower the tax free threshold for imported goods down to $0.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Showing the color, British Racing Green, it's "camera shy" color, the lights or the flash does not do it justice.

Cylinder Head I'll leave as it is,
Sump will be repainted to black,
and undecided yet on Top Cover. Might go Black on that as well.

Have to tidy up this room now, get timing belt sorted and the plastic covers. Long way to go yet time wise.

Missing the crankshaft key way for harmonic balancer.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
EFB055 If you cant find a replacement, just grind down some key steel.
A major auto spares, and engineering place, wreckers and some other places
just did not carry the straight keys, all had assorted half moon.

Then I remembered my old days, lawnmower...

lawnmower spares have them by the truck loads.

Bought packet of 5, just filed away till it fitted.
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
Drooping tools on engine build, done as much as I can for now.
Organized the car to be towed from where it was, over to my place, and resume work day by day as time permits.
-----------------,

This next phase, probably not on this thread, is when the time comes to fit the engine/gearbox back in.

When I took both motors out, the blown motor and the donor motor from the wreckers, they were both removed from the top.

At the wreckers we smuggled in a SnapOn rechargeable angle grinder to cut the drive shafts, exhaust and other bit of pieces that got in the way.

But not on the car needing the motor. I undid some steering stuff and pulled the shafts out from the gearbox, split the box from the engine, and removed the engine from the top.

In hindsight,
and it was suggested, best was to remove the entire sub-frame method.
But, no hoist or height to lift the body.

So,
soon it will all be going back in again,
Question is, ( while I am at it ),

Would it be better then to assemble everything, motor/gearbox/front end etc and simply slide everything under the body, and the lift up onto the mounts ?
-----,

Suggestions welcomed, all this will be now finished under a carport, height again is probably just going to squeeze it if I lift the body enough,
pushing my luck type of thing for height.
To lift the body, I will have to use 4 sets standard of car ramps by using a jack and place one each under the back wheels, and the other 2 somewhere on the front sides with wood blocks so it is not car-body-underside-metal touching the car ramp's metal.
Then place railway sleepers under the ramps till the required height is hopefully reached, as a very very desperate last resort.

Will post a photo next week when car is re-located under carport to view so it shows what I'm up against when the time comes to fit the motor back in.

( can't do it on the drive-way and A-Frame with block n tackle to lift the body, cos it's a down hill driveway).

( can't do the A-Frame method behind the remaining carport driveway because the driveway from there is corroded brick pave and retaining walls collapse an inch or so every time it rains.

(No one I know has a workshop area, because the house lands that used to be a good ol Aussie 1/4 acre back yards have been sold and sub-divided).

???, :tank:

The only other option is, to find and hire a empty workshop just to fit the motor or put back in from the top, same way as I took it out ?
 

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You can put the motor and box in from the top as an assembled unit.

When i put the motor in my car i hoist the chassis over the motor and lift the motor from undernearth, but only because it's 4wd and the transmission is much larger. It's a bit sketchy and i think going in from the top is the better method if i had the option for both.

Do yourself a favour and remove the front and rear manifolds while you're lowering it in, it'll give you much more room to play, even if the intake bolts can be tricky once it's in.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
remove the front and rear manifolds while you're lowering it in,
Front manifold for sure can do without while lowering, also alternator can go in later to.
But I thought the inlet and twin carbs go in at the same time, seeing it is a pain to do up everything between the firewall.

So once the motor is in, the gearbox can be coupled on from underneath, using a jack to support/hoist it, same way I took both gearboxes out. It be much easier this time to do this, seeing the axle shafts / steerings can be put on later.

lol, I can see myself doing this all over again some day, but a twin cam gig.
Thanks to this forum and Honda community in general, twinnies the way to go it seems.
 
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