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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok i have made a couple of threads about boosting a sohc and jdm d15b, i think i have finally made up my mind and want to build a d16a6 with...

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Eagle Rods
SRP 9:1 Pistons
Balanced Crank
ARP Head Bolts
Of Course ARP rod bolts since they came with the rods
ARP mains
All OEM gaskets and Bearings


HEAD

The head is were i am lost, what valvetrain do you guys recommed (valves,spring,cam, ect.) ?

I plan on having the head PnP.

Should i get a 3 or 5 angle valve job?

What Head gasket should i use?



Thanks for all the help!!!! :)
 

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racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
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Davilleky said:
HEAD

The head is were i am lost, what valvetrain do you guys recommed (valves,spring,cam, ect.) ?

I plan on having the head PnP.

Should i get a 3 or 5 angle valve job?

What Head gasket should i use?



Thinks for all the help!!!! :)
I'd leave the head stock, screw the P & P, and buy an OEM HG. Spend the money you save there on a bigger turbo, better suspension, etc. But that's just MO.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
well i was thinking to get into my goal range i will need it, i would be happy with 300whp, plus i wanna be able to rev a little higher then 6500, but if i can reach the 300hp goal without touching the head, i guess thats more money i save.
 

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Davilleky said:
well i was thinking to get into my goal range i will need it, i would be happy with 300whp, plus i wanna be able to rev a little higher then 6500, but if i can reach the 300hp goal without touching the head, i guess thats more money i save.
Do a search for the member fjt. He hit approx 282 whp on a D16Y7 with a stock head and it was his DD for over 2 years.
 
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putting out that mutch heat you will probably want to do the valves. with lots of heat they'll be prone to melting. I'm also doing the same build with the same parts in mind but am opting for a metal hg. As far as port and polish, turbos just ram in more air, the results would be marginal. regrinding your cams might be an idea.

If you want to go more than 6500rpm you will need new springs but you don't need to rev that mutch if you build it right. Sleeving or blocking is something you should do if you don't feel like wasting your money. block guards from kms on ebay sell for $55 and are good up to 20 lbs. according to thier reps. Sleevs are mucho $. you don't need them unless you plan on going over 20 lbs. DO NOT USE a stock hg.
 
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mindless said:
Do a search for the member fjt. He hit approx 282 whp on a D16Y7 with a stock head and it was his DD for over 2 years.
i have 372 whp on a stock d16 head
 
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Head??

Davilleky said:
well i was thinking to get into my goal range i will need it, i would be happy with 300whp, plus i wanna be able to rev a little higher then 6500, but if i can reach the 300hp goal without touching the head, i guess thats more money i save.
I had a 91 CRX with a stock bottom end and a head that had an agressive P&P, stiffer springs. I noticed a HUGE difference with the new head!! I really noticed it on the gas. I would highly recomend getting it done. I payed just over 500 bucks for the parts and labor and it was worth every penny!!
 

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i'd say get a sick cam and do whatever you can to ensure reliability (retainers etc.) p&p is made obsolete by boost and like still hungry said, you don't need to rev high to make good power with a proper tune.
 

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Use the Y7 head. Its got 1 mm larger valves than the A6 head. The cam is kinda crappy, but you'll still make great power, and you can throw a regrind in there when the time comes.
 
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