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building a reliable y8 (20psi)

7K views 45 replies 28 participants last post by  denmah 
#1 ·
planning on building my Y8 for around 330-380whp, im trying to make this as reliable as possible since it would be nice to daily drive it, i work roughly 50 miles away, plans are...

head:
stock y8 (maybe a mild bisi cam)

block:
vitara's
eagle h-beams
acl bearings
arp studded top to bottom
block fill
oem head gasket

turbo setup:
ram horn style
16g turbo
3 inch piping
3 inch down pipe
880cc injectors

tuning:
hondata

thats the rough idea of the build keep it simple but reliable aswell, trans would be a SI with a good clutch not sure on what one but i wouldnt cheap out on that! any ideas of what else would be good for making it a daily driver to?
 
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#2 ·
looks like a pretty solid setup. BUT forget about the block fill. that idea proved ineffective years ago and youre doing nothing but slowing coolant flow right where it's needed the most. also, if you were planning on using ARP main studs, don't worry about it. the stock bolts have been proven to over 600hp. plus i've heard that if you use them, you'll need to get the block align honed which can make things expensive.

as far as drivetrain issues, just avoid slicks or crazy launches and get a sprung clutch and you should be alright with the stock stuff. drivetrain mods can get VERY expensive (cmon, we're d-series here, we like things cheap right?) heh
 
#4 · (Edited)
What fuel? 91 and vitara's may get away with 20psi. You should be able to hit 330 under 20. If its a dd try to keep boost and power a bit low. 330 is very fun.

Power, reliability and dd don't mix more often then not. Add fuel pump, better/modified oil pump if its the y8 block
 
#5 ·
just the thought is a failure "reliable Y8" lol

is this a DD?
do you have a spare Y8 laying around?

if yes to the first and no to the second, I would pick up a spare Z6 to build on the side while you drive around. That's what I did with my girls' build. I found a Z6 long block that needed some serious work for $150 but the work didn't matter since I am completely rebuilding it anyway.
 
#12 ·
my vitaras have seen over 30psi this year and motor is still together. 20 psi will be fine.for how long who knows.tuning tuning tuning.hahahaha

as for the clutch, just make sure you get a good pressure plate that will hold.

im going to see how shitty the xtd 6 puck with red pressure plate is in the next couple days.
 
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#8 ·
blockfill def no-go
buddy ran 20+psi on 91 octane for 25k miles on a 57trim turbo at 300whp without much problem on the vitaras.

With a good tune you should be good to go.
 
#9 ·
my best advice to anyone wanted to turbo there dd. DONT....
my dd was turbo for a few years. nothing but problems. never could trust it to leave town. left me stranded time to time.
idc if its built or not. it will break. then you will be out of a car to get you to work and the store ect...
get another car and then boost the living shit out of this car. i got a daily and then took my dd which was at 300whp. the one that fkenmustangs said about and went for the fun shit. car was at 475whp this year.
it just spun bearings which had nothing to do with being built yada yada. lost oil pressure. yours could do that at anytime. and guess what. i still got a car to get to work everyday.
im a firm believer of not having your DD all hopped up. only cause ive been in that position when my boosted dd broke. and broke again.
 
#11 ·
before that setup i my turbo dd was a complete stock motor with studs and greddy 15g setup on 10psi. made 176whp. and guess what. thats the only motor that daylighted the block. only motor i literally blew up. that turbo setup was on 3 seperate motors. all had issues of some sort.
just cause its making a lot less power dont mean it wont break or blow up.
when that car was stock besides i/h/e not one thing wrong with it. now my daily is a 96 civic. stock as shit. 178k on it doesnt burn or leak a drop of fluid.
if you can find me a turbo dd or even most race cars that dont leak oil from somewhere i would have a heart attack.

and for the record my dd at 300whp got 47mpg.
 
#14 ·
knock on wood my y8 has stayed together for the most part, made 235whp @ 7-8psi and DD the shit out of it. 9k miles boosted and I haven't put in the headstuds yet :p

It does burn some oil, doesn't leak much as far as I can tell. Oil drain bolt is wet but doesn't drip.

My tranny is making more sound than motor right now, when its cold the ISB whirrs
 
#16 ·
a 250whp street car is fun and can maintain traction for the most part....hell my first set-up was prolly 180ish whp, that thing ripped....get a ebc or duel stage boost controller, get tuned for your 350ish whp you want.....then you can easily turn it down for daily purposes or flip the switch when that asshat brostang duche comes flying up on you on the freeway

im in the middle of working out the bugs of a 400+whp fun in the sun kinda car, its like a corvette at this point i only take it out for the nice days, drive it to work, go to meets or cruises....and i trailer it to the track incase something breaks

but when you get a car to this point there is always something, little glitches and whatnot......think about it, very little under my hood came on the car and is supposed to be there, the more things you change the more potential issues that could arise
 
#24 ·
going to put about 14 psi on my girls vitara. looking to get 300-350whp at the very most. we both have our EJ1's and work very close to each other and only commute 15mins to work so it's all good, and are avid members of AAA :TU:

which is another good reason to build a spare block, once you pull the old motor out rebuild it to stock specs to have as a backup and a once every 2 years swap for smog :)
 
#28 ·
yea maybe 300 whp is much more streetable had a a6 with 176 whp and that felt like a little rocket, i have a new wrangler as DD gets so so gas mileage, had like 8 hondas back in the game finally!! so im taking everyones edvice keep it simple even 250 whp would be fast
 
#30 ·
If you build for reliability, your looking out for your car and the time you will have behind the wheel.

If you build for power, your looking to tear the engine down when it leaves you stranded.

Personally built for reliability and let the numbers lay where they may. I would also suggest using honda bearings for longevity or at least spec-ing the oil clearances to the "tighter" side of things (bottom 1/3 of clearance).

Side note: Greddy kits are like whores in college. Some are great lays, others give you the clap. :D
 
#32 ·
im at 25psi on my DD D16Y7 with 360whp...i believe reliability comes down to how much time your willing to take in the assembly process to make sure things are right, and also getting it tuned by someone reputable.
 
#34 ·
Ill be shooting for 250whp with piece in mind with my build. But my suspension is all done up. Tein Flex all around with a traction bar and d15b lsd tranny. I got the asr sway bar kit, gsr front sway bar and front/rear strut bars. Before I tune Ill make sure to have at the minimum a integra brake upgrade. If you cant hook then you might as well stick with 220 whp.
 
#39 ·
shit a brick LOL!!




Sounds like your build is on the right track!! ya as far as the block fill, most likes not a good idea, spend the money and get that thing sleeved if your ever going up to that high in power
 
#40 ·
OP your from NJ, so you may be local to me.

1) Y8 motor, oil pump should be ported.
2) Delta regrind= bisi cam on the cheap
3) Fuck most tri state tuners!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Tri state= Xenocron for a solid tune, pm me when ready, he likes it when I check a build for him and send people his way
4) You would be hard press to have a 16g make 300hp, unless its a twin scoll evo 8 or 9 turbo which I made 467hp on one, even then the turbo was push HARD!
5) FUCK hondata those rat ass good for nothing bunch of *******! I met Dave in person, he is the coolest most layed back guy you will ever meet. By no way shape or form could I ever knowingly buy anything from a company like that. Better yet any one who does should be shot in the face!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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