The machine shop i used claimed they balanced it to 10k. that high of a number is not necessary, and honda cranks are balanced well from the factory. if you are using true OEM honda parts, like their rods and pistons, they are usually almost perfectly balanced from piece to piece out of the box, so you might be able to get away with just throwing it together, but i like to atleast get it (the rotating assembly) balanced to a high level, like 8-9k. even if it checks out and doesn't need anything, it's still nice to check and make sure so you don't have any balance issue surprises down the line.recent newb said:Hey, i've been reading your build on a d16z6 and I'm deciding to give it a try. However, there's still a lot to this I don't know.
How do you balance the crank to 10,000RPM?
Stock rods just need to be shotpeened?
(It seems the block requires the least changes, just shotpeened rods, p29s and balancing, correct?)
Is the OEM Headgasket a 1.5mm?
When I go ask for a porting job, what should I be asking the guys for? Just a port&polish? (Don't want to feel like I dont know what I'm talking about when i get to a shop)
And for the valve job, a 3angle valve job is enough?
Tuning: I start to get confused here. I read you talked about Power FC but also Hondata.. will I need both or just one?
And that on-board fuel rail FPR, a link to the product? I don't want to order the wrong thing... Anything I need?
Sorry for all the newb questions but I'm trying to get this down asap so my car can run again.
Oh of course, this is a d16z6 build, if that helps out.
yes, shotpeened stock rods, maybe some ARP rod bolts (as long as you follow torque and retorque procedure, which is easy) and p29's....+ balancing, yes.
the OE HG is NOT 1.5mm, it's pretty thin, like .038", whatever that converts to. the 1.5mm is an aftermarket headgasket from APEXi, however, other than the one i am currently selling, they are very hard to find. if you are using a z6, as long as you don't go crazy taking material off of the head and/or block deck, you should be ok with a stock headgasket, especially if you have access to 93 octane and can tune this thing well.
if the shop does honda or small engine port injected heads, they should have a good idea of what you need, but i'd say if you had to describe it you want an aggressive street port. make sure you go to a very reputable shop, please! even if you need to send the head away to a good shop, it's worth it. the head is the key to the power potential of the build!
a 3 angle valve job is more than enough. the more angles you put on there, the easier they will wear down over time, so a properly executed 3-angle is just fine for good flow.
powerfc is a standalone that eliminates the stock ecu, and the hondata works inside the stock ecu. you need one or the other. for most people, hondata/neptune/etc are just fine. i ran the apexi unit because i really like the features it has, but it's expensive, so it might not be smart for an NA d-series, the power level really doesn't warrant it. hondata or a similar program, tuned by a competent tuner should be just fine.
the on-rail fuel pressure regulator can be found on the AEM website. they have them as application specific FPR's that mount to the fuel rail.