Honda D Series Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
698 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So the build is almost done!!
D16Z6, P29 pistons (75.5mm), 3 angle valve job, P&P, decked block, milled head, Crower Ti springs/ retainers, cometic .051 HG, (11.8.1 CR)
Am I running into any tuning issues on 92 octane?
Will I have to run hotter plugs b/c of high CR?
Should I break in motor on dyno, or on street first before dyno?
Am I looking at detonation issues?

Figure I'd check with the gurus on here to get straight answers instead of crap all over the place. Thanks in advance!!
 

·
Well.......
Joined
·
2,488 Posts
So the build is almost done!!
D16Z6, P29 pistons (75.5mm), 3 angle valve job, P&P, decked block, milled head, Crower Ti springs/ retainers, cometic .051 HG, (11.8.1 CR)
Am I running into any tuning issues on 92 octane?
Will I have to run hotter plugs b/c of high CR?
Should I break in motor on dyno, or on street first before dyno?
Am I looking at detonation issues?

Figure I'd check with the gurus on here to get straight answers instead of crap all over the place. Thanks in advance!!
1st not bad p29s are a pain to tune so you and your tuner are gonna have to be patient with it..

2ed im gonna say go with a colder plug

3rd find a big ass hill and deaccelarate down it.. it helps seat the rings(correct me if im wrong)

4th its all in the tune man gl
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
698 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Alright thanks!! I appreciate it. I was looking at NGK spark plugs in heat range 7, anyone agree that it's cold enough?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
698 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
well better to be safe than sorry right? haha I'll stick with the 7's for added insurance.
 

·
Registered
CIVIC COUPE
Joined
·
810 Posts
i would take the motor and drive it around get it hot and then check for leaks. nothing worse than having to pay for the shop to fix something like a vac leak or something or just having to come back again.

some shops like to break a motor in on the dyno. i think its all preference really.

im running ngk brk7 or brk7e i forget which.
 

·
Registered
1988 Honda CRX
Joined
·
6,676 Posts
You bed the rings under full load, not under over run.

Initially do full throttle pulls in the higher gears for a few seconds only. I really do mean a few, like 3 seconds.

After each pull let off the throttle and cruise to let things cool off a bit, then do a longer pull and let it go to higher revs.

After eight or ten pulls you should be up to about 10 seconds per pull.

At that stage you should be using a lower gear and let it run to higher and higher revs until you hit the red line at each pull.

This is somewhat by feel as it depends on quite a few things, especially bore finish and precision, piston to bore, ring material, oil used, CR, power level, piston material, tune and I am sure there are others. If it feels real tight keep the pulls shorter until it starts to free up a bit.

If it feels free, do higher rpm and longer duration pulls.

You want to load the rings firmly against the bore and you want to stretch the rods to the max ASAP while bedding the rings so they bed all the way to their maximum travel, but you don't want local hot spots or to burn of to much oil from the bores, hence full load, short time with cool off periods that circulate the oil around.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,003 Posts
bkr7e....and the part number changed to 4644, so if you go in and order bkr7e it will not pull them up or tell you they are discontinued.....go in and order 4644 ngk spark plugs....i know by me not to many places keep them in stock but the o'rielys does
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
698 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
You bed the rings under full load, not under over run.

Initially do full throttle pulls in the higher gears for a few seconds only. I really do mean a few, like 3 seconds.

After each pull let off the throttle and cruise to let things cool off a bit, then do a longer pull and let it go to higher revs.

After eight or ten pulls you should be up to about 10 seconds per pull.

At that stage you should be using a lower gear and let it run to higher and higher revs until you hit the red line at each pull.

This is somewhat by feel as it depends on quite a few things, especially bore finish and precision, piston to bore, ring material, oil used, CR, power level, piston material, tune and I am sure there are others. If it feels real tight keep the pulls shorter until it starts to free up a bit.

If it feels free, do higher rpm and longer duration pulls.

You want to load the rings firmly against the bore and you want to stretch the rods to the max ASAP while bedding the rings so they bed all the way to their maximum travel, but you don't want local hot spots or to burn of to much oil from the bores, hence full load, short time with cool off periods that circulate the oil around.
Thanks for the input!! I talked with my buddy who's a certified honda tech and he almost said the same thing exactly, ha. I'll let him bed everything in, and get it right. I know I would def mess up on my first time. I'll be with him to see how it's done, but not for me.

I was going to let the tuner break it in, but my buddy said no need he'll do it after building it. Save me some money per hour on the dyno.

Oh, and I will post a link to my complete build with lots of pics when done. Just waiting for the camera.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top