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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Budget manifold idea (OEM sinktrap)

So I am in thoughts of turboing my D16Z6, but I'm not too keen on dropping to much money on a manifold. So my thought was this:

How about using the good old top half of the OEM manifold. Basically using the 4-2 part of the OEM 2 piece 4-2-1 header. Then have a custom fabricated bottom part with a collector doing a U bend back up to a flange for the turbo. Wastegate flange could also be put on the bottom part.



Advantages over full custom fabricated yet super simple manifolds.
This will give a more equal header length
This will be cheaper to make

Disadvantages
thinner runners?
not as durable maybe?

Has anyone been down this line of thought before?

I have googled around for this but I haven't found any results on it.
 

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Why not just get a cast top mount from eBay/Amazon?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
How about this setup?

http://www.d-series.org/forums/showcase/244153-black-95-ex-civic-turbo-recapturing-glory.html

EDIT: you can get a taco taco cast turbo manifold cheap and take a dremel to it to clean up some of the rough casting marks and it is a solid peice for the money.
That link is pretty much exactly what I was thinking about. I don't live over in the US, there aren't as much stuff for civics around where I live, so easiest would be to custom fabricate with as little piping as possible. So this taco-taco thing could work but I think it would be cheaper to run the "sinktrap" design anyways. I will have a look at that thread though. Thanks!
 

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I'd just rock one of these and call it a day if I were you.
Honda Civic T3 T4 Cast Iron Turbo Exhaust Manifold D D15 D16 D Series | eBay

I'm sure it will flow a lot better then a home made OEM manifold.

The runners look pretty even.. and the WG port is in a better spot then the cheaper ebay mani's

It would be fun to build an OEM turbo manifold though, for sure.

One thing i don't like about modded OEM turbo manifolds.

They crack on there own on stock N/A setups.. It would suck to spend money fabbing one up just to have it crack down the road and have to redo it.

Just something to think about.. Good luck either way
 

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If you can get a tubular header (oem d16y8 or china stainless) you'd be lightyears ahead vs cast. The biggest issue with the cast manifold was keeping the up-pipe sealed to the header. The front bolt had too much weight on it and would loosen up, and it was also a absolute pain to access. The Y8 and china headers would let you use more secure bolts; my recommendation would be a castle nut & cotter pin with a bolt that has a hole near the end. You could also weld the up-pipe directly to the steel flange if you choose a d16y8 or china header
 

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if your on a budget go find a HF/STD manifold. I believe you can find them n 92-95 D15 cars as well. do some porting on it and your good to go.

 

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problem with the hf and (92-95 cx) manifold is that if it didn't come on the car your going to spend $20 to buy one, $45-50 for the adapter...for $65-70 you can just buy a ebay china cast manifold...just saying.

I used one 6 years ago but back then the only t2 optio nwas buying a greddy manifold for like 250-300 so it worked out ok...and I have a cx so it was a factory manifold for me. now ebay has knock off t2 base cast units all under $100
 

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Wouldn't the stock manifold be awfully restrictive? I would imagine the $88 or so for a cast unit off Ebay would be well worth the investment and won't break the bank like a full custom tubular $700 unit. The savings might not be worth the reward.
 

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Wouldn't the stock manifold be awfully restrictive? I would imagine the $88 or so for a cast unit off Ebay would be well worth the investment and won't break the bank like a full custom tubular $700 unit. The savings might not be worth the reward.
But he is in Scandinavia I think. I don't know what the taxes/duties are to get one off the internet but it would be an easier option.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Wouldn't the stock manifold be awfully restrictive? I would imagine the $88 or so for a cast unit off Ebay would be well worth the investment and won't break the bank like a full custom tubular $700 unit. The savings might not be worth the reward.
I'm not too sure about restrictive. As long as the runner tubes are the same size or bigger than the exhaust port in the head i don't see an issue. It'll just be less volume to fill. Keep in mind that with this design you maintain somewhat the equal runner setup from OEM N/A. I've read that equal length runners will help spool the turbo quicker. Although the log type manifolds are smaller in volume, the equal length ones should send the exhaust gas into the turbo with a higher velocity.

Also maybe I should point out that my priority would be low lag over high boost. I'd run a small turbo and I'm not looking for particularly big numbers in power or boost.

But he is in Scandinavia I think. I don't know what the taxes/duties are to get one off the internet but it would be an easier option.
I am indeed in scandinavia, Sweden. Everything bought from outside europe you have to add about 27% on (not only the price but shipping as well) I hate the system but that's how it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #16

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If its your first build spend the money to buy parts that works.

If you have a machine shop and welding equipment (like me) it is SOMETIMES worth the effort of making custom stuff.

I also live in Sweden, sometimes you're lucky and don't have to pay taxes and import charges.

Also, ask the ebay seller for the cheapest shipping, the automatic shipping calc is not always the cheapest.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
If its your first build spend the money to buy parts that works.

If you have a machine shop and welding equipment (like me) it is SOMETIMES worth the effort of making custom stuff.

I also live in Sweden, sometimes you're lucky and don't have to pay taxes and import charges.

Also, ask the ebay seller for the cheapest shipping, the automatic shipping calc is not always the cheapest.
I don't have welding equipment, which is why I'm trying to work out the easiest, cheapest design of a manifold attachment to get a turbo on there to keep labor and material costs down as much as possible. I am not 100% set on turboing. So far I'm still seeing how good I can make it for how little money. If I do it, it will be a cheap build because I don't have that much money to spend. I'm sure I can get this attachment made, maybe from modifying a lower exhaust pipe, for cheaper than what I can get a cast manifold for. Whether it's better or not depends and I think it can be subjective depending on what you're looking for in terms of performance. I'm looking for low lag, low boost which leads me to believe this could work out quite well. And besides it's fun to piece together your own turbo system :)
 

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If you do not have the equipment to make flanges and weld pipes it probably will be better to buy the ebay one.

I dont know your situation, previuos experiance or goal with your car.
But if you have to ask the simple questions, you probably have a lot to learn.
 
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