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Discussion Starter #1
hey

so i was removing my old rusted out torque mount bolts and i think one of them on the driver side snapped inside of the frame rail, so now the bolt is just spinning :( whats the best way to get this out?

also i am running the 60a durometer innovative mounts. i have heard of some people running these with no torque mounts, however they do run a torque damper. is this a viable option?

thanks!


EDIT: YAY 100th POST WOOO THANKS D-SERIES
 

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Classic Man
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the nut that was welded into the inside of the unibody has snapped off.


you can cut the bolt, then drill a hole into the uni body rail and remove the other end of the bolt/nut.

there might be easier ways but i can not think of any right now.
 

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They call me Awesome!
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Give this a shot;

Soak the end of the fastener (where the bolt meets the chassis) with PB blaster.
Wedge something between the head of the bolt and the metal surface that it's touching to apply downward force and try to take it out that way.

Once you get the bolt out you've got a bigger problem on your hands, i.e. how to get the nut that's inside the frame rail reattached. You'll most likely have to cut around it, weld a new nut on top of the hole (or reuse the old nut) and weld the previously cut out piece back in.

If you don't know how to do this, you're probably better off taking it to someone who knows what their doing (no offense). It's really easy to seriously screw up a car if you're just guessing!
 

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They call me Awesome!
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I just realized what we're talking about. You could probably get away with removing the torque mount all together and getting some inserts for the left and right mount. It'll make it ride rougher but it's the cheaper solution...
 

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For the most minimal motor/trans movement I would recommend both lower torque mounts. But if it's on a DD, it's probably not needed. I don't run a driver side lower torque mount on my DD.
 

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I can't read...
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I just realized what we're talking about. You could probably get away with removing the torque mount all together and getting some inserts for the left and right mount. It'll make it ride rougher but it's the cheaper solution...
this is probably what i would do in your situation.

$50 for the left and right upper motor mounts.
 

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Same crap happen to me. I just cut it out. Still need to weld it back up. I am not using both of the troque mounts. Just running innovative motor mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Same crap happen to me. I just cut it out. Still need to weld it back up. I am not using both of the troque mounts. Just running innovative motor mounts.
what durometer are the mounts youre running?

also, yes the bolt on the inside of the unibody has broken, i can get pics tomorrow. the only problem im having is that if i do cut a hole into the unibody (large enough to fit a socket/extension) the motor is out of the car so i wouldnt be able to weld it up till the car runs. is this a huge deal?

edit: or what i was thinking of doing was having a pass side torque mount and just using a torque damper on the driver side for the time being
 

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HI ! have the same problem.. my driverside mounts bolts snapped! can i just use the one on the gearbox and use a Torque damper on the engine side?? i will boost!
 
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