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Discussion Starter #1
Im planning on breaking in my engine the new way (http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm) by this I mean that after making sure everthing is ok with no smoke, leaks ect...I will do a series of pulls/runs to around 50mph and let the car slow/stop by itself, I will repeat this process for around 25-50 miles if I don't get stop by the police . I will use regular oil (Valvoline) for the first 100 miles or so then I will switch to syntetic oil.

Now this are the questions that I got and please, unless you have experience first hand, no guessing please.

I know this have been ask before but a lot of people give the same answer but without any evidence or facts,
(1) If I remove the spring out of the gate, will I be able to break in my turbo engine WITHOUT removing my turbo set up?

Don't know if this will affect anything on the break in process but I will ask anyway, Also for those WHO REALLY KNOW, if you can explain yes/no and most important WHY!!!
(2) I have a 3 bar map sensor and a 255 walbro fuel pump that I haven't install, YET, should I install them prior to break in process or should I leave it stock for now? In case I ended up installing this parts, will it be ok if I do so prior to break in process?

This I really will like to know if anybody did it, for the breaking process Im planing on using my stock P28 ecu, I will be doing regular driving since I consider the process that Im gonna use for the break in, regular everyday driving.
(3)Will this be ok, to use my stock ecu (no modification) to use it to drive around specially to break the engine in?

This I already did, and want to know if I should leave like that or put the stock ones on,
(4) Already install 550cc injectors, will it be ok to use then or should I put back the stock ones since im using my stock ecu?

Once again, don't want to sound like a dick/ass, but please if you can trully answer me this question and explaing to me why yes/no.
Don't waste my time and the time of others by posting info you trully know anything about UNLESS you can trully provided with enought info to back your theory.
Thank you guys, and hope this info can help a lot of people that are going thru this right now OR will be going thru this in the near future.
 

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FF Misfit
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4,881 Posts
Stock P28 ='s Stock injectors. If you don't you'll be dumping way to much fuel into the engine. As for the break in process, I'd do hard pulls but only for a few thousand RPM's since there are more parts than just the rings that have to be properly seated when breaking in the engine, esp if you build the cylinder head at the same time. As for removing the turbo, if you already have it on I'd go ahead and tune with it on while breaking in the engine on the dyno.
 

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R2.....Zap Balls
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5,186 Posts
Take it to the dyno and boost the shit out of it :mrgreen:. Mine will be started here and run for 20 min or so to bleed the air out of the coolant and then the oil changed. Then it's getting trailered to the dyno to be tuned and broke in.
 

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i let the motor run through 1 heat cycle changed oil....
25 miles changed oil
50 miles change oil
(in the 50 miles "getting on it" not BEATING it but driving it hard)
500 miles changed oil then beat on her wooooo
 

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I know this have been ask before but a lot of people give the same answer but without any evidence or facts,
(1) If I remove the spring out of the gate, will I be able to break in my turbo engine WITHOUT removing my turbo set up? sure, with out the spring the valve will open. but imo, just pull the whole wg off along with one of the charge pipes. and run a ram air intake

Don't know if this will affect anything on the break in process but I will ask anyway, Also for those WHO REALLY KNOW, if you can explain yes/no and most important WHY!!!
(2) I have a 3 bar map sensor and a 255 walbro fuel pump that I haven't install, YET, should I install them prior to break in process or should I leave it stock for now? In case I ended up installing this parts, will it be ok if I do so prior to break in process? i would leave them out and run a stock ecu. why? = cause it will be better then a "close" base map will ever be. too much fuel on a base map will wash the cylinders

This I really will like to know if anybody did it, for the breaking process Im planing on using my stock P28 ecu, I will be doing regular driving since I consider the process that Im gonna use for the break in, regular everyday driving.
(3)Will this be ok, to use my stock ecu (no modification) to use it to drive around specially to break the engine in? yes, it will be the best thing to use to break it in. stock map has just enough of everything to help this porcess.

This I already did, and want to know if I should leave like that or put the stock ones on,
(4) Already install 550cc injectors, will it be ok to use then or should I put back the stock ones since im using my stock ecu? use stock injectors
and yes i just did this back in feb. and will be doing it again this march when the new build is done (oops, letting it slip). imho stick to reg oil for the first 2k miles. then swap to whatever you want. i used the oil at the local grocery store (cheveron to be specific) to start and run the engine for the first 2k miles, i changed it like 5 times:

1) start up <- ~20 min warm up and quick run around the block, no shut down inbetween, total was no more then 25 mins
2) after the first 100 <- on the money
3) after the next ~500
4) at ~1100 total miles
5) at ~2000 total miles

btw: torn down my engine over the x-mas week. still had a perfect crosshatch even after 13k hard miles :TU:. jeffs95civcsi can back me on the condition of the cylinders and engine as a whole.

hard = 6 hours on the dyno and dd for five months, then driven cross country in four days.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks a lot guys Reps for all, and hope everyone have a Happy New Year.

keep it coming guys, I know theres got to be a lot of you out there, that broke in their turbo engine, lets hear it!!!
 
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