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Discussion Starter #1
I have a new/rebuilt D15B2 in my EF that hopefully I'll be driving quite frequently if I can ever get my transmission issue fixed. I haven't driven the car at all yet, but I have started it and let it run for a few minutes at a time while fixing codes and adjusting the idle, etc. It's ran a total of maybe 5 times for no longer than 3-4 minutes at a time.

It's got Mobil 1 synthetic 10w-30 in it, but I've already noticed it leaking around the oil pan gasket (leaking pretty good, at that). The oil pan gasket is new and it's all torqued to proper spec and in proper sequence.

Should I maybe switch to conventional oil for the first few thousand miles while it all "breaks in"? If so, is there a certain viscosity I should be running during "break in" to avoid the leakage?
 

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95 ex coupe
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you DONT use synthetic on the break in! take it out
regular oil will be just fine and they also have break in oil.
and when you hit maybe 600 miles give or take change the oil!
i used regular oil for the first 2 oil changes at about 800 miles a piece
 

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()*#$(*$
93 Legend L Coupe.
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11,404 Posts
Straight weight 30, non-detergent is generally the standard for breaking in any engine, unless it is really cold out.

Drain the synthetic. Once you get your tranny issue fixed, start the car and let it warm up completely. Take it out on the road. Do some heavy 2nd gear pulls, DE-ACCELERATING IN GEAR. Do this a few times. You want to load up the engine as heavily as possible. This is what the rings need to mate with the cylinder walls correctly (which is the whole point of breaking in the engine). As long as you built the engine correctly, this is not going to be harmfull to it. Once you get teh car back to your place, change the oil and filter. Run regular oil in it for another 500 miles. Change the oil and filter to whatever you want. And, for the record, never run Fram filters. They are crap.

I broke in a B2 like this after i rebuilt it. It runs rediculously strong and you should just see the gas milage and emmisions! It almost doesn't get better than this!
 

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Straight weight 30, non-detergent is generally the standard for breaking in any engine, unless it is really cold out.

Drain the synthetic. Once you get your tranny issue fixed, start the car and let it warm up completely. Take it out on the road. Do some heavy 2nd gear pulls, DE-ACCELERATING IN GEAR. Do this a few times. You want to load up the engine as heavily as possible. This is what the rings need to mate with the cylinder walls correctly (which is the whole point of breaking in the engine). As long as you built the engine correctly, this is not going to be harmfull to it. Once you get teh car back to your place, change the oil and filter. Run regular oil in it for another 500 miles. Change the oil and filter to whatever you want. And, for the record, never run Fram filters. They are crap.

I broke in a B2 like this after i rebuilt it. It runs rediculously strong and you should just see the gas milage and emmisions! It almost doesn't get better than this!

x2!!!!!!

Most people seem to think you need to take it easy during break. but that is exactly what you are NOT suppose to do. yo ustart it up, and once its warm. you need to run the hell out of it!. hard 2nd and 3rd gear pulls! there is a HUGE write up about this by some engineer but i dont know the link... anyone know what article im talking about?
 

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I no longer haz teh pink eye! Iz got STINK EYE
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so what about when you break in a engine with a new clutch? do you still do hard pulls in the car even with a new clutch installed? i messed up by putting synthetic in my motor i built last year. worst thing to do, that thing ran so hot all the time. best of luck
 

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I think with the new clutch you more or less dont want to be bangin through the gears or doing anything too rough on it, hard shifts or dropping it.
 

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93 integra ls b18c
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yep just take it up to the gear you are going to pull in and then stomp the gas, other then that normal driving. at least that is what i did and no ill effects yet (knock on wood)
 

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()*#$(*$
93 Legend L Coupe.
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11,404 Posts
Yeah, no full throttle shifting. Take the engine up to redline, slow down in gear (completely off the gas pedal), shift, all teh way up to redline, slow down in gear, all teh way up to redline, slow down in gear. Shifting is the hardest part on the clutch unless youa re making enogh power to spin the clutch with the pressure plate engaged. (Not gonna happen with a mostly stock B2, though. LOL!)
 

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Straight weight 30, non-detergent is generally the standard for breaking in any engine, unless it is really cold out.

Drain the synthetic. Once you get your tranny issue fixed, start the car and let it warm up completely. Take it out on the road. Do some heavy 2nd gear pulls, DE-ACCELERATING IN GEAR. Do this a few times. You want to load up the engine as heavily as possible. This is what the rings need to mate with the cylinder walls correctly (which is the whole point of breaking in the engine). As long as you built the engine correctly, this is not going to be harmfull to it. Once you get teh car back to your place, change the oil and filter. Run regular oil in it for another 500 miles. Change the oil and filter to whatever you want. And, for the record, never run Fram filters. They are crap.

I broke in a B2 like this after i rebuilt it. It runs rediculously strong and you should just see the gas milage and emmisions! It almost doesn't get better than this!
way i did it:)
 

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After about 20 miles if that, I would change the oil because that's when the most of metal shavings will be floating around from all the break in
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hey thanks for all the input guys. I put in synthetic because I was planning on running synthetic all along, and wanted to avoid the common switching over and then having leaks issue. I didn't think anything of it until it started leaking almost immediately. I'll drain it and put in some Castrol GTX dino before driving it/running it again.

Now if only I could figure out my darn transmission issue!
 

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Classic Man
Civic
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everyone has their own opinions about engine break ins...

the only thing ive heard both sides of the fence say is:

never EVER let the rpms sit at a constant level. its not ok to sit and let the car idle to warm it up.

change the oil frequently and dont use synthetic. (ill be changing the oil once it warms up, then again at 100k, then again at 500k, all with regular oil with MoS2 additive)

make sure to engine brake, ie decelerate in gear
 

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if you don't let it idle for a few minutes to warm up your going to have to large of clearences and couldn't you then potentially damage the cylinders. I agree don't let it warm up for like 5 minutes but give it a couple. If your not running the stock hypereutic pistons then your clearences would be even larger to accomodate for greater expansion of the pistons. It's got to at least get near operating temperatures before you go WOT.

Edit: light a tagger torch or a Mr.Heater propane burner under the pan and plug in your block heater (If you have one and if you don't maybe it wouldn't be a bad idea to install a temporary one) and nuke that bitch so when you fire her up she only needs a minute. Then ride her.
 

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if you have a really bad leak, changing to non-synthetic oil is not going to get rid of it imho. If you had a seal that wept a little then maybe.
 

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'89 CRX HF
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you DONT use synthetic on the break in!
odd, there are more than a handful of cars that are being sold from the factory with NEW unbroken in motors with synthetic from the factory. there is nothing wrong with breaking in on synthetic...its just more expensive

i ran cheap 10w30 on my break in for the sole fact that it was cheap and i was going to change it often.

the way I did it...some might be different:

If its a stock motor, make sure its a stock .bin, if its modified, make sure your afrs and timing are kosher before any of this

start the car and let it warm up.
drive the car, get into second and stomp on it. when you get up to around 6k, let off the gas and let the engine slow you down to low rpms.
repeat this about 15 times
change oil
get on the highway and go through the gears, changing often. dont cruise in 1 gear at a steady rpm for a long time.
every time you come to a stop, downshift and make the engine slow you down
after about 500 miles, change the oil
drive like normal(for me this is beating the shit out of it), except continue to use the engine as a brake.
after 1000 miles, change the oil

drive like normal, beat the piss out of it :)
 
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