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2000 Honda Civic Dx
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Discussion Starter #1
Happy New Years. I recently went to Laguna Seca with my Integra. I was running stock calipers/rotors and Hawk HT-10s. I inspected my brakes today and I do need to upgrade from the HT-10s, they cannot take the heat.

What I did not expect is my brake dust boots to be burned off on both sides. I'm assuming I want to replace these calipers? Or is it safe to run them without dust boots.

I will go with Hawk DTC-60s this time. I am running 205/50/15 BFgoodrich Rivals. Hopefully not too much pad for me.

I'm looking to go to Laguna Seca again on Jan. 10 so any help is appreciated.
 

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Subbie Outback
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The heat issue isn't going to be fixed with more aggressive pads. You are going to have to reduce brake system temperature through increasing the rotor diameter by swapping to parts from another model or going to a Brembo/Wilwood large brake kit. The other way to reduce the brake temperature would be through fabricating some brake vents, directing forced air onto the caliper/rotor. You might have to do both. Each of these modifications have been thoroughly covered in recent posts which you can find with a search.

What ever you do, be sure to check your rotors. Overheating them can change the temper of the metal. This overheating usually can be detected by a change in color where the rotor surface turns blue.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't expect the heat issue to be fixed by more aggressive pads. I need the more aggressive pads to prevent brake fade. I experienced brake fade from the 2nd session onwards that day. It's a possibility that my brake fluid might not be up to the task as well. I am only running ATE 200 dot 4.

Upgrading has crossed my mind but I don't feel it is warranted at this point and my stock caliper/rotor setup is good enough for my application.

What I am really concerned about is the dust seals burning off. I understand that heat will be an issue but I think it's unnecessary to put ducting on a relatively stock car.

I replace new rotors when I do my brake pads. I am learning that as I increase in skill/speed, wear/tear is proportionate to that. So I'm not too surprised that these HT-10s did not last very long.

Another thing I'm considering is my driving style, I brake late and hard but that's what you are suppose to do right?!
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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ducting is cheap and easy to do and will cut brake temps dramatically - it's not just the boots you're cooking off when you get them that hot, you're cooking your wheelbearings, outer CVs and lower balljoints too.

it's not like adding ducts can HURT anything, so why not do it?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ducting is cheap and easy to do and will cut brake temps dramatically - it's not just the boots you're cooking off when you get them that hot, you're cooking your wheelbearings, outer CVs and lower balljoints too.

it's not like adding ducts can HURT anything, so why not do it?
You know that's a very very good point. Ok now you got me thinking.

I'm just being honest, I just want to make it by Jan. 10 to Laguna Seca lol.
 

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ducting is cheap and easy to do and will cut brake temps dramatically - it's not just the boots you're cooking off when you get them that hot, you're cooking your wheelbearings, outer CVs and lower balljoints too.

it's not like adding ducts can HURT anything, so why not do it?

Yes, why not? You should be able to DIY some pretty cheap that are very functional. May not look the greatest but will perform. Also when you get rotors that warm they can actually warp and cause extreme vibration and wobble when on the brakes. Also, if you don't have them a set of braided brake lines can help with pressure due to reduced swelling in the lines. They will also give better pedal feel.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes, why not? You should be able to DIY some pretty cheap that are very functional. May not look the greatest but will perform. Also when you get rotors that warm they can actually warp and cause extreme vibration and wobble when on the brakes. Also, if you don't have them a set of braided brake lines can help with pressure due to reduced swelling in the lines. They will also give better pedal feel.
Yeah you guys make really good points. I have stainless lines already and definitely feel a difference especially under heavy braking.
 

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Depending on how crazy you wanted to get with it, you could also get a couple of small/powerful fans and rivet or plastic weld them midway through your duct and run them to a switch to ensure airflow while on track and not depend on just airflow at speed.
 

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ducting is cheap and easy to do and will cut brake temps dramatically - it's not just the boots you're cooking off when you get them that hot, you're cooking your wheelbearings, outer CVs and lower balljoints too.

it's not like adding ducts can HURT anything, so why not do it?
In addition to boiling your brake fluid.
 
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