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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The materials you will need are:

Anodized/painted bov

VHT flameproof primer

VHT wrinkle paint color of your choice, I chose black

Sandpaper or wire brush. I used a welding slag brush (personally I prefer the wire brush as it can really get into the nooks and cranny's of whatever you're working with and I think it does just as good a job on aluminum.) Sand blasting is what I think would be ideal but me no own sand blastie so I'm doing it by hand.

Easy off oven cleaner, there are 2 kinds that I usually find at the store. There's the blue fume free can, and then the yellow heavy duty can. I used the yellow can. Not sure what all it works on but it chews right through anodizing and paint.

Carb spray to clean everything

3mm allen to remove the bov adjustment screw and cap screws.

10mm socket or wrench for the intake port and adjustment screw nut

2017-02-21 10.07.58 by Anomolix, on Flickr

Step 1: Use your 10mm and remove the nipple and lock nut on the back and top of the bov.

2017-02-21 06.53.48 by Anomolix, on Flickr
2017-02-21 06.54.28 by Anomolix, on Flickr
Step2: Use the allen wrench to remove the top adjusting screw then hold the lid down and slowly remove the allen screws. As you unscrew them the lid will slowly start to lift up. Just keep tension on the bottom and lid until all the screws are out, then slowly separate the lid and bottom piece of the bov. There will be a spring/diaphragm/spacer plate sitting inside. Set this off to the side, we only want the top piece.

2017-02-21 06.54.56 by Anomolix, on Flickr
2017-02-21 06.56.09 by Anomolix, on Flickr
2017-02-21 06.56.31 by Anomolix, on Flickr

Step 3: Take the bov top to wherever your going to spray it and soak the crap out it with the oven cleaner. The spray is fumey so make sure you have proper ventilation and a fan on. It takes awhile but give it time and most of the anodizing should come off. I have already done this on the bov that I'm actually using so I have another one to do a color comparison. As you can see in one of the pictures it didn't quite get all of the anodizing but it gets enough. It was previously bright pink. Not really an issue with a red car, but now my car is blue/silver. All that really matters is the exterior that is visible anyways.

2017-02-21 06.57.43 by Anomolix, on Flickr
2017-02-21 06.59.46 by Anomolix, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Step 4: You should be left with a top that is bare metal for the most part. Now use your brush or sandpaper and scrub the crap out of it until it is shiny and scratched up. It really doesn't take much to get the job done. Now clean it with carb spray and you're ready to paint.

2017-02-21 07.02.20 by Anomolix, on Flickr


Step 5: For this diy I'm going to primer it first with some super high temp primer. Probably overkill, but I was given some so might as well use it. Just follow the directions on the back of the can of 2 light coats, 10 minutes between coats, then a 3rd medium coat waiting for 30 minutes, for a total 50 minutes and let it dry. You could probably let it dry completely and then sand it but I'm not.

2017-02-21 07.06.46 by Anomolix, on Flickr
2017-02-21 07.07.06 by Anomolix, on Flickr

Step 6: Time to throw some wrinkle on this bizatch and make it look super sick! Follow the directions on the back of the can and you're set. 3 heavy coats, 5 minutes between each coat, first spraying horizontally, then vertically, then diagonally. An easy way to do this is to keep your spray horizontal and turn the piece on some cardboard. 3 coats of primer and then 3 coats of this is more than enough paint for such a small piece and we're done painting!

2017-02-21 08.43.36 by Anomolix, on Flickr

Step 7: Now all we have to do is wait 2 hours for the paint to dry. DO NOT HANDLE IT OR TOUCH THE PAINT FOR 24 HOURS!! When they say don't touch it, they mean it. The paint is going to wrinkle up and look dry but I assure you it's not. I accidentally touched a buddies that we did and left a big ass finger print and then we left more marks moving it around. Don't touch it. Depending on the temperature of your drying area is going to determine what kind of wrinkles you get. Drying in a lower temp environment seemed to produce longer more noticeable wrinkles, while hitting it too hard with a heat gun or blow dryer seemed to make the wrinkles smoother, less pronounced and tighter. I don't have a blow dryer or heat gun so it's getting the low and slow treatment.

2017-02-21 09.36.27 by Anomolix, on Flickr

Step 8: After 24 hours this is where you're supposed to cure it in an oven at 200 degrees for 1 hour. I don't have an oven that would be suitable for curing paint, so instead I'm going to put it on top of a friend's motor and prop the hood up to where it's just closed and let it sit. Cars operating temp is right around 200 F so I'm using what I got. So to recap, disassemble, primer, VHT paint, cure.

Step 9: I'm going to wait a whole 48 hours like it says on the can before even touching the thing. After that it's time to reassemble. Put the spring/springs back in the diaphragm, then the little spacer plate on top of the springs (It should only go on one way. There are little grooves on one side that fit perfectly inside the springs.), then the top of the bov on top of all that. Make sure the diaphragm is seated correctly then press the top and bottom together and start putting the allen screws back in. I get one somewhat started on one side, then another started on the opposite side so I can let go and finish putting the rest in. Double check one more time to make sure the diaphragm is seated correctly and everything is lined up straight and finish tightening down the allen screws. Finally, put the washer, spring tension screw, and locknut back into the top, and the air nipple in the back.

2017-02-22 19.19.41 by Anomolix, on Flickr
2017-02-22 19.19.52 by Anomolix, on Flickr

Annnnd we're done with our super sick wrinkle paint bov!! Re-install back on your car and enjoy!! 6 coats of paint is probably a bit much for this but fuggit! Additionally I put some ultra black on the threads of everything. I'm not sure if this is necessary but I've never had any leaks so I do it anyways.
I hope this was informative and entertaining, and I plan on doing this to my valve cover as we
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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You have merely striped the color from the anodizing with lye. Purple Power does the same thing.

It might also change the surface hardness, something I'm testing on transmission parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You have merely striped the color from the anodizing with lye. Purple Power does the same thing.

It might also change the surface hardness, something I'm testing on transmission parts.
I think you may be right about reducing surface hardness. After the removal it was much easier to scuff the surface.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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From stock shift forks to those "cleaned" in PP which changed the color of the coating, I am testing if that helps with wear issues on SCCA transmissions.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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Hopefully won't know anything for 1-2 seasons/years until next refresh, if it works.
 
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