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Discussion Starter #1
Garrett model number: TBO335 (T3 series turbo)
OE part#: 466298-7, 466298-4
Compressor Trim: 50
Compressor housing A/R: .42
Turbine Trim: 69
Turbine housing A/R: .48
Horsepower Capabilities: ~275hp
Internal Wastegate: Yes
Water cooled: Yes
Oil cooled: Yes
Wastegate setting: 7 psi


-That and a rebuild kit, and I'll have me a good turbo for $150.
The compressor is a little small, but I think it'll be ok for what I want out of it.


On to the pics....





-Andrew
 

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racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
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I don't think 275 is possible with that turbo.

Wtf kind of flange is that? It's not a standard T3 flange.

Good find though :TU:. Cheap turbos rock!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It's off of an '87 Chrysler New Yorker.
BTW I'm only shooting for 200/220 at the wheels. Think I'll have to use a boost controller and up the boost a little bit?

I wonder if I can just use an adapter for the flange?
I was going over the flanges pages on ATP trying to see what I can buy...

Any suggestions?
 

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well do you already have a manifold? or are you going to be fabricating one? if you are fabricating one, you can find TE04H(Chrysler flange) flanges on ebay or from Weir http://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=83018.0. he lists them for $12, but will probably have to make one seeing as he doesnt have any in stock.

if you already have a standard t3 flanged mani in mind and are looking for an adapter, i dont know what to tell you
 

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racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
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contact autoworks
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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Ive had two or three of those chrysler K car turbos. Good luck on the dissasembly! You will probably need to invest in a bolt extractor kit to get the bolts that break off out! And maybe get someone to fab up an inlet and get rid of that funky 90*/w emissions crap all over it elbow. You may be able to use a different cold side from a different turbo to alleviate that problem, i never tried but thought about it.
 

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You can swap the housings to something else, just need to find something that uses the same turbine and compressor wheels.
 

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It's off of an '87 Chrysler New Yorker.
BTW I'm only shooting for 200/220 at the wheels. Think I'll have to use a boost controller and up the boost a little bit?

I wonder if I can just use an adapter for the flange?
I was going over the flanges pages on ATP trying to see what I can buy...

Any suggestions?

should be really possible with this turbo seen been done a million times have fun with the new toy.
 

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I have the same turbo... I'm thinkin 225 whp max.
Recommend:
*Double check on shaftplay.
*Swap the compressor housing because that inlet is a punk to screw with.
*Keep the internal wastegate if you're making a budget build.
*Kill that built-in EGR tube.
*Utilize that water-cooling because it'll help with the life of that turbo!
*To get more hp, swap out the compressor wheel and housing to a larger one.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
well just figure its going to be the same as any Volvo/Saab t3. should see full boost by 3300 or so and it will support hp levels right around 200-215hp efficiently
Exactly what I'm looking for.

I have the same turbo... I'm thinkin 225 whp max.
Recommend:
*Double check on shaftplay.
*Swap the compressor housing because that inlet is a punk to screw with.
*Keep the internal wastegate if you're making a budget build.
*Kill that built-in EGR tube.
*Utilize that water-cooling because it'll help with the life of that turbo!
*To get more hp, swap out the compressor wheel and housing to a larger one.
GREAT info man. I'll definitely see what I can use. Anyone know of any good articles on this subject(swapping compressors?)?

THANKS guys


-Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Took it apart today at school(I'm in for aviation mechanics and we just so happen to be covering induction systems/turbochargers... so it's perfect timing):
(sorry, didn't bring my camera with me, you'll have to suffer through the camera phone pics)






Diagnoses:
It was siezed, but I broke it loose no problem. I'm positive the bearings are shot. it will not spin by hand, but it's not that hard with a socket.
One of the 5 bolts on the DP broke at the head, so now I've got to extract 1 bolt.
The 6 bolts holding the turbine side are siezed(surprise surprise), so I stopped trying- I didn't want to break any more than I had to. I'm going to heat them up with a pencil torch and plenty of PB
Blaster and see if I can get them loose later on.
We couldn't get the shaft out, so idk what I'm going to do. Any known tricks for tapping the shaft out?
Oh, and there was a TON of carbon/blowby buildup in the BOV, and I don't feel like fooling with that crap so I'm just going to junk it and go with a standard one.
 

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Just a suggestion, but I might try to find a shop that rebuilds turbos and see if you can get a good price on a rebuild. I know youre probably wanting to do it yourself to save some money but all things considered, youll end up spending more money down the road if it doesnt get done correctly. If you decide to do it yourself, make sure that you get it balanced at least and take your time. Heres a link I found for rebuilding a garrett http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1397101&postid=17974047. Best of luck!
 

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Well if its rebuilt right, balancing will make it last considerably longer. Id spend the extra cash now to do it right instead of having to rebuild again sooner or replace it again. Just my .02 from having to replace turbos that werent rebuilt correctly the first time. Shit gets $$$ after a while.
 
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