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Discussion Starter #1
iv torqued the girdle and the rod caps to the correct ft lb according to the haynes manual . and i also put oil on all the bearing surfaces before i put it assembled it but its almost impossible to turn over. im using a breaker bar and its got to be close to 100lbs and its not budging..

i know its the torquing thats wrong cause if i losen it just alittle it surns just fine and is smooth..

i torques the rod caps to 30ftlbs

i torqued the main caps to 40ftlbs

and this is a d16z6 whats up with it? am i torquing them to tight?
 

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what size bearings are you using? if your using .10 over bearings, it will do that. those aftermarket oversized bearings are for cranks that been cut due to spun bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i ordered std bearings im pretty sure that what i got although the acl box dosent say what size they are
 

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i have to ask this... are you using assembly lubricant?



Anyways, check the clearances on the bearings if they plastigauge fine then check your thrust washers maybie they are bound up.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
not actuall assembly lube but i used a crap of motor oil and i checked the thrust washers and there fine arnt bound. and i used plastigauge when i was assembling it and it all checked out
 

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the bearing size is marked behind the bearing itself. if its std size it will say std. if its oversized it will say.25 or whatever size that it is. did you plastigauge the bearings? if your bearing clearances came out fine then its something else. If you didnt plastigauge then i'm pretty sure your main or rod bearings are oversized causing it to lock the crank when you torque it.
 

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wierd, make sure you are torquing the girdle in order is this the same girldle that came from the engine? or did it come from another one? Try loosening the bolts on each journal one at a time to see wich one is locking it up.
 

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yEaH tHaT gUy!!!
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is there any scratch or scuff marks on the girdle to indicate binding? remove the bearings and check the roundness of the journals with an inside micrometer.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well i checked the rod bearings there std i have to pull the oil apn and what not to check the main bearings but im pretty sure there std also. and anyhow the plastiguage checked out so they have to be std.

and honeslty no i didnt torque the girdle in the right order but other then possibly breaking it i didnt think it would matter i tightened it from the inside out. and yes its the girdle from the stock engine

if i losen the bolts and then just snug them up with a ratchet at like 10lbs it works fine but it siezes up when i put the 30ftlbs on them.

i am doing the correct ftlbs right?
 

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Classic Man
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sounds like your tq wrench is fucked.

get a buddy to come over who has done this before. a 2nd set of eyes will catch what ever super noob mistake you are making. :)

why did you take the girdle off in the first place? is your crank straight?
 

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racist-bigot-sexist-homophob
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Torque the girdle in the right order, verify your torque wrench is accurate.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
no i needed to do wiring and stuff from a tuck so i went ahead and installed it in the car so i gotta take the oil pan off. put oil pan on cause i tried to saturate everything in oil
 

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Friend of the D
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and honeslty no i didnt torque the girdle in the right order but other then possibly breaking it i didnt think it would matter i tightened it from the inside out. and yes its the girdle from the stock engine

i am doing the correct ftlbs right?
You should have a manual. Are you using the correct torque settings?

sounds like your tq wrench is fucked.
Torque the girdle in the right order, verify your torque wrench is accurate.
Torque wrench accuracy is one thought. The proper assembly is another. There's a reason they tell you to torque bolts in a sequence. It's just like when the tell you to torque in steps. You need to follow the proper assembly procedures to start with!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
getting rebuilt cause i got it in pieces and i wanted a new motor...

new parts=
oil pump
water pump
tensioner
main bearings
rod bearings
thrust washers
piston rings
seals/gaskets etc..


and as a side note it might be my torque wrench it was left in the rain and is slightly rusty and i had the same problem with the cam shaft binding aswell when i was torquing it down aswell
 

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are you putting the parts (cam, crank, rods, pistons) in dry and then just pouring oil on top afterwards? Get some assembly lube and drench the parts in it as you put them in.
 

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I was going to say lack of notching the block and the rod could be binding when you try to spin it, but rods were not on the rebuild list.

That sucks that the motor is in the car, it's so much harder to work on that way.
 
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