This guide shows you how to install Bosch EV14-style injectors into a Honda D16Z6. Disclaimer: This involves raw fuel and can be dangerous. Follow all safety requirements set forth in the factor service manual. You are responsible for your own safety!
Bosch EV14 fuel injectors are fairly similar to the OEM Honda injectors (made by Keihin), although Honda uses a different sealing method in their 1990's B/D/H/F intake manifolds. This guide will work for virtually all of those manifolds & engine types. One minor difference is some OBD2 manifolds used "air injection", which amounts to allowing air to flow into the manifold around the injector tips via tiny holes. The holes may have to be plugged or the vacuum source (nipple or hose) sealed. The other difference is some JDM motors use shorter injectors that looks like early F20C injectors, identified with a slim body with a large flange near the outlet. For these you must install taller USDM-spec fuel rail studs.
First: you must uninstall the original injectors. PLEASE follow the factory service manual's instructions TO THE LETTER. To sum it up, disconnect the battery, depressurize the system via the petcock on the fuel filter outlet, drain the fuel rail & inlet hose, then remove the 2-3 bolts holding the fuel rail on. Raw fuel WILL spill, so have a rag handy.
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Second: install the EV14 injectors into the fuel rail. First dry any fuel still in the fuel rail holes, next use engine oil to lube the new o-rings (do no reuse old o-rings), then gently press them into the holes evenly. If you aren't careful, they can get pinched, cut, ruined, and leak high-pressure fuel. Not safe! I recommend buna-N or Viton rubber for the inlet o-rings - these particular IN400 injectors came with firm buna-N. Some aftermarket fuel rails may have slightly larger outlet holes and may have problems sealing virtually any injector, not just EV14's. I do not recommend aftermarket rails for Honda's - the OEM rails can flow enough gasoline for 1000-2000cc injectors.
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Third: install the original style lower seals into the intake manifold holes; do NOT install them onto the injectors first. Lubricate the lower seal on the top & insides with motor oil. The lip on the bottom of the black plastic body is what will be sealing against the lower seal. The silver parts of the injector outlet WILL be loose side to side in the seal, especially if you are reusing them. The green o-rings on the bottom of the EV14 injectors are OPTIONAL. They aid in sealing, but are not needed.
For the best fit, buy a new kit from your local auto parts store, ask for a 92-95 Honda Civic injector seal kit. If non-stock injectors were used previously (Precision, DSM, etc), they may have been stretched too wide and will require replacement.
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Fourth: place the fuel rail & injectors into the manifold seals. If you kept the green o-rings, this will require a lot of lube and a lot of force. The only way to "cheat" is to put the seals on the injector first until the green o-rings are no longer visible, then pressing the rail/injector/seal combo into the manifold holes. Not recommended for the novice. This image shows the injectors installed just past the green o-rings, but not all the way. NOTE: Many EV14 injectors have directional atomizer plates that require a certain injector angle; the picture below shows a 30 degree rotation to the right (the connector is pushed towards the passenger side) for the injector closest to the camera. These InjectorNation.com IN400's should be clocked 30-45 degrees to the right.
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Fifth: tighten the 3 bolts down to finger tight, then use a wrench to seat the rail against the black plastic fuel rail shims. Alternate between the nuts and only do 1-2 turns before going to the next. Once you check that all 4 injectors are seated into the intake manifold lower seals and "clocked" to the correct angle, tighten the nuts down to the torque spec listed in the factory service manual. The pictured rail shows the rail just before the final torque setting, note the tiny gap between the rail and the front half of the plastic shim. NOTE: EV14's all have a small circle cast into the black plastic body on their left side near the outlet, visible in the picture below. A proper install height puts this circle just below the top of the lower manifold seal.
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Sixth: double-check that all the seals are slightly indented as shown in the picture below. If not, you have the incorrect seal. Honda had 3 different seal types: a thick soft seal, a thin hard seal, and a thin soft seal. The thick soft seal is most common on OBD1 intake manifolds. OBD2 intake manifolds usually use a thin soft seal stacked on top of a thin hard seal. Both types will work, but you MUST ensure that the top of the exposed seal is flush with the manifold casting and not recessed. Auto parts stores will sometimes include both soft style seals or just the thick soft seal. Check the bottom of this post for a picture of all three together.
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The last step is to ensure you tighten the petcock on the fuel filter (new crush rings are recommended) & reconnect the battery. Prime the pump (turn the key to ON/RUN for 2-4 seconds once or twice) then check for leaks between the fuel rail and injectors. Have your tuner alter the engine management system (EMS) for the new inejctors. They WILL require different settings, possibly an entire re-tune due to flow differences.
Bosch EV14 fuel injectors are fairly similar to the OEM Honda injectors (made by Keihin), although Honda uses a different sealing method in their 1990's B/D/H/F intake manifolds. This guide will work for virtually all of those manifolds & engine types. One minor difference is some OBD2 manifolds used "air injection", which amounts to allowing air to flow into the manifold around the injector tips via tiny holes. The holes may have to be plugged or the vacuum source (nipple or hose) sealed. The other difference is some JDM motors use shorter injectors that looks like early F20C injectors, identified with a slim body with a large flange near the outlet. For these you must install taller USDM-spec fuel rail studs.
First: you must uninstall the original injectors. PLEASE follow the factory service manual's instructions TO THE LETTER. To sum it up, disconnect the battery, depressurize the system via the petcock on the fuel filter outlet, drain the fuel rail & inlet hose, then remove the 2-3 bolts holding the fuel rail on. Raw fuel WILL spill, so have a rag handy.
Second: install the EV14 injectors into the fuel rail. First dry any fuel still in the fuel rail holes, next use engine oil to lube the new o-rings (do no reuse old o-rings), then gently press them into the holes evenly. If you aren't careful, they can get pinched, cut, ruined, and leak high-pressure fuel. Not safe! I recommend buna-N or Viton rubber for the inlet o-rings - these particular IN400 injectors came with firm buna-N. Some aftermarket fuel rails may have slightly larger outlet holes and may have problems sealing virtually any injector, not just EV14's. I do not recommend aftermarket rails for Honda's - the OEM rails can flow enough gasoline for 1000-2000cc injectors.
Third: install the original style lower seals into the intake manifold holes; do NOT install them onto the injectors first. Lubricate the lower seal on the top & insides with motor oil. The lip on the bottom of the black plastic body is what will be sealing against the lower seal. The silver parts of the injector outlet WILL be loose side to side in the seal, especially if you are reusing them. The green o-rings on the bottom of the EV14 injectors are OPTIONAL. They aid in sealing, but are not needed.
For the best fit, buy a new kit from your local auto parts store, ask for a 92-95 Honda Civic injector seal kit. If non-stock injectors were used previously (Precision, DSM, etc), they may have been stretched too wide and will require replacement.
Fourth: place the fuel rail & injectors into the manifold seals. If you kept the green o-rings, this will require a lot of lube and a lot of force. The only way to "cheat" is to put the seals on the injector first until the green o-rings are no longer visible, then pressing the rail/injector/seal combo into the manifold holes. Not recommended for the novice. This image shows the injectors installed just past the green o-rings, but not all the way. NOTE: Many EV14 injectors have directional atomizer plates that require a certain injector angle; the picture below shows a 30 degree rotation to the right (the connector is pushed towards the passenger side) for the injector closest to the camera. These InjectorNation.com IN400's should be clocked 30-45 degrees to the right.
Fifth: tighten the 3 bolts down to finger tight, then use a wrench to seat the rail against the black plastic fuel rail shims. Alternate between the nuts and only do 1-2 turns before going to the next. Once you check that all 4 injectors are seated into the intake manifold lower seals and "clocked" to the correct angle, tighten the nuts down to the torque spec listed in the factory service manual. The pictured rail shows the rail just before the final torque setting, note the tiny gap between the rail and the front half of the plastic shim. NOTE: EV14's all have a small circle cast into the black plastic body on their left side near the outlet, visible in the picture below. A proper install height puts this circle just below the top of the lower manifold seal.
Sixth: double-check that all the seals are slightly indented as shown in the picture below. If not, you have the incorrect seal. Honda had 3 different seal types: a thick soft seal, a thin hard seal, and a thin soft seal. The thick soft seal is most common on OBD1 intake manifolds. OBD2 intake manifolds usually use a thin soft seal stacked on top of a thin hard seal. Both types will work, but you MUST ensure that the top of the exposed seal is flush with the manifold casting and not recessed. Auto parts stores will sometimes include both soft style seals or just the thick soft seal. Check the bottom of this post for a picture of all three together.
The last step is to ensure you tighten the petcock on the fuel filter (new crush rings are recommended) & reconnect the battery. Prime the pump (turn the key to ON/RUN for 2-4 seconds once or twice) then check for leaks between the fuel rail and injectors. Have your tuner alter the engine management system (EMS) for the new inejctors. They WILL require different settings, possibly an entire re-tune due to flow differences.
