Honda D Series Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I doubt many people will be searching for an exhaust like this, but I know I would have liked to have found a CRX review on the Bosal catback prior to buying it myself. I was looking for a quiet, stock, exhaust. So here is the kit I purchased:

~$200 on RockAuto, pricing and shipping varies.
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=5943573&cc=1169276&jnid=396&jpid=0

It comes with everything from the header back EXCLUDING the catalytic converter. The only reason I don't call it a cat-back is because it did come with hardware and gaskets to change out the catalytic converter if you are doing that too. I thought that was nice.



The Bosal exhaust is 1.75" with twin 1.5" tips, a resonator, and a muffler. It is aluminized steel, crush bent, and preformed. It will often ship without any real wrapping. Mine wasn't damaged aside from a few scrapes here and there. The sticker/packaging comes off easily with hot soapy water.



Installed, the exhaust looks great. It doesn't rub the rear bumper at all.



Ground clearance is also great. There is plenty of room between the exhaust and the body also.



Factory heat shielding and shift linkage clear without any issue.



Exact length to bolt to a factory cat.



Overall I am very pleased with this exhaust. For about the cost of an eBay exhaust, you can get a factory style exhaust. It isn't nearly as loud as aftermarket exhausts tend to be. It is small diameter pipe and it isn't a straight through muffler. I noticed no difference in power on the butt dyno and I actually enjoy the exhaust note more now. It is quiet while idling and modest while accelerating. It does still make a bit of noise if you get on it though.

Pros:
Cheap, $200
Exact fit, bolt in
All hardware
Quiet
Twin tipped

Cons:
Aluminized, not stainless
Without a factory cat, still not factory quiet
Packaging is sub par compared to most exhausts
Tips have no covers

Like I said, I am pleased with it. No more scraping, no drone, no fart noise, no bling, no rubbing, etc etc. For the resto-modder, it is a solid pick up. I would suggest some stainless steel tips for a more finished appearance.
 

·
Registered
Love the Civic
Joined
·
1,817 Posts
Wonder how long the muffler will last not being stainless, especially for those in salty states.

Sounds like a solid basic exhaust though. Looks better on there for sure, that other setup had some serious fitment issues.
 

·
Registered
Sl2,Cx Hatch
Joined
·
646 Posts
Sweet review. I'm sure if he washes the car that exhaust will go 8 to 12 years roughly before some joint area bust or rust out. Diff worth it I put one on a 95 civic the other day the biggest pain was snapping off all the old nuts and bolts lol.
got to love snow salt and rust that nys gives me!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I would be more cautious in a salty state, but I live in Florida. I've had aluminized exhausts go 2-3 years before showing any surface rust. So I'm thinking at least 5 years for me.

I was tempted to paint it with VHT flameproof, my high temp paint of choice, and I still may do that. I was just eager to get the old off and the new slotted in so I could test the sound difference.

I had very few issues removing the pipes, but they were fairly new (~1 year).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,880 Posts
I put bosal on my 90 4 door. wasnt happy after only one year.

I highly suggest you pop it back off and paint it with something that can survive 600 degrees or so. Try for a spray that doesnt need a cure


then she should last several years!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I put bosal on my 90 4 door. wasnt happy after only one year.

I highly suggest you pop it back off and paint it with something that can survive 600 degrees or so. Try for a spray that doesnt need a cure


then she should last several years!
I think flame proof is 1100 on the label. It lasts longer than any other high temp paint I've used. I have some 2,000* high temp paint that I'm going to try on the valve cover. I'll remove the exhaust when I start working on the motor here shortly. I'm trying to get it to start and run on OBD1 right now so that when I do change over, I can run a better basemap and start dialing in the tune on OBD1 and burn a chip for this car.

I have a AEM wideband and NeptuneRTP that I'll get this thing tuned with. But they have to go back on my other car as soon as possible.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top