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Discussion Starter #1
Hello I'm new to the d-series community and i Have Few Question's About this mini me Build I'm trying to do.



I currently had my 93 eg hatch on boost it was a bone stock d15b7 with 440 injector's, t3 t4 50 trim turbo , Blox fpr, shaved Head, and was on 7lbs of Boost tuned on chrome. It lasted me 1 month before my rocker arm broke and dropped a valve. Computer was chipped to 7200rpm shift light and 7400 fuel cut.


I took my head Apart And now i wana do a mini me on it,and luckily my brother has 2 head's a z6 and a y8 head. I been doing alot of research on which 1 to use and im still confused.


1. which head will be better for boost z6 or y8?

2. Let's say i wana use the y8 head do i use 8 d15b7 head stud's and 2 y8 is this true?

3. What's the most you'll boost with either a z6 or y8 head on the d15b7 block with a t3 t4 50 trim A/R turbo?

4. Does anyone know how fast can A D15B7 Mini me turbo get on a quarter mile?



Thanks Any Answer's will Be appreciated !
 

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A 6 min bump?

Searching will bring up what studs you need.

My b7/y8 ran for a long time making 200whp... it even ran for a while at 230 and was guinea pigged on the dyno (well over 100 runs in a summer). All was well until a bunk boost controller and my right foot killed it.

Get it on the rollers and keep it around the 200whp mark.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
so a b7 mini me is good to the 200whp line that's not bad at all btw i did research i just wunted to really know if that was true about the headstuds .
 

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Boost is relative. Keeping the power around 200whp on a stock healthy D w/ a reliable and sufficient tune can last for years without a hassle.

How fast can it be...that again is relative. It all depends on numerous things.
 

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First things first. This should be in the noob section, since you are a noob. Second, you can't bump a post within 24 hours. You need to read the rules or threads like this could get locked.

Third, there are lots of arguements back and forth on which head is better for boost. They have different casting designs and honestly either will float your boat just fine. Same with the intake manifolds.

If it's really a concern of yours to know which has better characteristics for what, then research them heavily, because there is alot of info out there.

Make sure you do a full checklist of maintenence on your engine before you slap a new head and boost it. Minor details will kill your car if left unchecked.

Finally, don't go above 200hp and you should be fine. No promises though, it all comes down to the tune for reliability. But the rods usually go above 200-220 regardless, so just be safe with it and have fun.

edit* ^^^mr.autoworks is dead on as far as pretty much everything being relative lol the driver is the most important part for a good 1/4 mile time so go practice!
 

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I'm working on a simalier set up. D15b7 with y7 head. I have already tried lots of different intakes to see the difference in power incuding cbr itbs(work real good but require constant tuneing for best performace) The best set up to me right now is a y8 intake with a Ls 60mm tb. I haven't tried Skunk2 or edelbrock $$$$.

The motor has a little goodies in it.
Ball honed with new NPR rings
Arp rod bolts and head studs
Crower springs and ti retainers
Sealpower bearings would have like to use Honda but had to use the got into a pinch.
Y7 head resurfaced and valves cleaned and relaped with new valve stem seals

Turbo set up going to be t3/t4 60 63a/r eBay turbo and cast iron maifold
Rc 550 injectors, 12"x 18"x2.5" intercooler , 3" mandural bent exhaust,

They are right about the rods power limits tho 250 is like max and your on very borrowed time at that power level the man that tunes my car did and experiment with a stock 1.5 b7 and at 250 it lasted about 2 weeks. It took 11 psi off a 50 63a/r eBay turbo and dozens of 1/4 mile passes for about a month before he turned the rpm up to 7200 and the rod snapped in half and punched 2 holes in the block
 

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Not that I found or they would have been in my build. They make them for the jdm d15b but not a b7 I heard some one was going to but some thing happen where they couldn't

The other reason we think it let go was the driver was doing a forth gear pull in a dx trans to much stress for too long. Oh by the way it was in a gutted Hach and had skinny 185 hard tires and still ran a 14.2 on the mans average pass
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Wow they should of made d15 aftermarket rod's kinda suck's cuz these motor's are pretty strong for there class . When the old setup was running i had no problem beating stock ls-v setup's and some B series swap's at the Races .
 
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